Mounting Bindings Question

[Greg]

Originally Posted by 2knees

I had my head mad trix mounted 1 inch forward. no idea why, just cause i've read that i should. Even though its too late, would you mind telling me what the benefit is?

Me too. I felt 1 cm was a safe variation, but had no specific experience as to why I should.

Originally Posted by jack97

I think the main factors are; putting pressure on the front of the ski, thus getting a quicker turn initiation. I think its harder to put this front pressure when the mount is toward the back. The second is aft/fore balance, you can get off the backseat by leveraging from the tail since you have more running surface.


edit: Hey did you try those skis yet?

On my Cabrawlers, again also at 1cm forward, I've found that I can get the tips diving pretty easily. Probably more to do with the lightweight of the ski, but maybe the slight forwardness of the binding has also contributed. In fact, in the Mount Snow vid, there are a few instances where my tails kick way up as I'm forcing the tips down. I was purposely skiing that way (somewhat erratically) to try to feel out the skis.

[jack97]

Originally Posted by Greg

On my Cabrawlers, again also at 1cm forward, I've found that I can get the tips diving pretty easily. Probably more to do with the lightweight of the ski, but maybe the slight forwardness of the binding has also contributed. In fact, in the Mount Snow vid, there are a few instances where my tails kick way up as I'm forcing the tips down. I was purposely skiing that way (somewhat erratically) to try to feel out the skis.

Could be that the mount placed you at the balance point of the ski. Should be able to lift the tip up or drive them down, both with equal ease which should be independent of the ski wieght. Would be interesting to do this with your AC3 maybe a season before you decide to replace it, figure you can try the forward mount in other terrain.

Anyways, keeping the tips down is a good thing... in the bumps at least.

[MRGisevil]

Uhm. Yeah, won't even try to act like I know. Have shiny object syndrome...completely derails any chance I might have at aquiring some actually useful knowledge about gear...

[Greg]

Originally Posted by jack97

Could be that the mount placed you at the balance point of the ski. Should be able to lift the tip up or drive them down, both with equal ease which should be independent of the ski wieght. Would be interesting to do this with your AC3 maybe a season before you decide to replace it, figure you can try the forward mount in other terrain.

Anyways, keeping the tips down is a good thing... in the bumps at least.

Too late. The AC3s are being replaced by some Legend 8000s. Went with the Dyna recommended mount.

You know sometimes I struggle with believing a mere 1 cm move really makes all that much of a difference. Often times it boils down to the operator, not the equipment. I guess I take the approach of trying to get any advantage I can get though...

[prisnah]

The recomended line is core center. I would just mount 'em up on the reco line for all mountain performance.

If you're worried tho, measure the ski tip to tip. Divide the number you get in half and that'll be true center. If the recomended line is behind where you've measured true center to be then the reco. line is their all mountain line and I would not go further back than that.

Most park skis reco line IS for all mountain. Very few park skis have the line at true center, unless they are symmetrical skis.

[jack97]

Originally Posted by Greg

You know sometimes I struggle with believing a mere 1 cm move really makes all that much of a difference. Often times it boils down to the operator, not the equipment. I guess I take the approach of trying to get any advantage I can get though...

I hear ya. I just remember few seasons back; I would ski bumps in my volkl g3, a really stiff ski, my ankles would be sore at the end of the day. I finally found some new k2 axis x, a softer ski, couldn't demo it but I got it b/c of the cheap price, my ankles feel a lot better.

[Trekchick]

Originally Posted by severine

So...doing a very inexact estimation between 2 sick kids crying out for me (via balancing the ski on mu finger, marking that point, comparing that to BOF, and about where that should fall as far as boot center goes), it looks like (in theory) these should be okay to mount right on the ski marking to get BOF mounting. So instead of screwing around with cm forward or backward, I think I'm going to just tell them to go with BOF since that looks like it should come out about the same to what's marked on the ski anyway.

At least I've learned a lot more about mounting bindings today!

Keep in mind that Center of Balance with a ski and center of contact length are two completely different things.
Seriously, I'd consider going 1 back from BOF, if you want the safe bet. If you think you'll be doing any park stuff, then maybe not, because you'll want to be centered for 180's and 360's.

[severine]

Like I said, it was a quick estimation... I will definitely be talking this over with the people in the shop for their opinion, too. Who knew it would get so confusing when trying to learn about it myself instead of just trusting someone else to make the right decision?

[Trekchick]

Originally Posted by severine

Like I said, it was a quick estimation... I will definitely be talking this over with the people in the shop for their opinion, too. Who knew it would get so confusing when trying to learn about it myself instead of just trusting someone else to make the right decision?

The best thing is that you'll walk into the shop, informed.
severine, I'm impressed. You are like a sponge. Soon, you'll have to get a license plate like the one I have on my jeep.

[severine]

Just when I think I've got it....

I'm not a very mechanical/technical minded person normally. But this was something that intrigued me when I first read it in passing, thus leading to this grand experiment. So might as well make the experiment worth it and go for a little less than the conventional, right?