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Mounting Bindings Question


The Dynastar Marie Martinod Pro models are in! Beautious! Before I take them to the shop, though, I just want to verify my understanding of what I need to ask ...

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Old Nov 26, 2007, 7:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
severine
 
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Question Mounting Bindings Question

The Dynastar Marie Martinod Pro models are in! Beautious! Before I take them to the shop, though, I just want to verify my understanding of what I need to ask for. They came with unmounted bindings. Since these are "technically" a park ski (freestyle), am I correct in assuming that the mark for bindings is where one would want them if using them as park skis and that, since I want to use them as all mountain skis, I should have the bindings set 2-5cm back from that? I thought I read that somewhere, but I'd really hate to be wrong. And since I have to take them to a new shop I really want to be specific with these people.

TIA!

ETA: looks like I may have this backwards (hence why i'm trying to verify): (considering the source though: http://www.hitemposkishop.com/twintips.html )
Quote:
Many Riders mount their skis forward of the ski manufacturers traditional midsole mounting point. This will provide increased control riding switch and better balance rotating on and off axis. However, moving the binding too far forward can cause a ski to lose stability at higher speeds, so consider your needs wisely. K2’s research and devolpment team has devised a scale that can help skiers determine their own mounting point based on their skiing style. This scale can be adapted to many twin tips on the market today. Here is how their scale breaks down…
0-2cm forward: All Mountain: If you plan on skiing mostly outside the park and want the ski to behave like a traditional ski, you should stay on the conservative side and mount traditionally.
3cm- 5cm forward: 50% All Mountain, 50% Terrain Park. When mounting beyond 3cm, you will lose a little of the traditional feel of length in front of the binding, but with more tail, you gain the control in the air and riding switch.
6cm- 7.5cm forward: If you bought the skis primarily for the terrain park or are focused on riding switch in powder or in backcountry, you may consider mounting your skis this far forward. While you may sacrifice forward directional float and stability, it’s made up for in the switch riding and landing stability and balance in the air.
Which I believe some others on here dealt with this as well when having bindings mounted on new skis for this season...............
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Last edited by severine; Nov 26, 2007 at 9:50 PM.
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Old Nov 26, 2007, 7:59 PM
 
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Old Nov 26, 2007, 8:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
Hawkshot99
 
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Well for starters I am not familar with the specifics of Dynastar.

There may be only one mark on the ski. This could be a core center(park) or mid sole(all mountain).

If there are several markings then go with the far back marking, this is mid sole.

If you are using it as a all mountain ski you do not want it to be core center. The few times I have skied skis like this I felt like there was nothing in front of me.
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Old Nov 26, 2007, 8:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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There's only one marking on the skis. It's a twin tip park ski, so that's why I'm assuming I want the bindings set back from that.
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Old Nov 26, 2007, 8:16 PM   #4 (permalink)
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If you are unsure, it is a safe bet to lay them on the line. Why would you get a park ski if you want to have all mountain performance? 2cm is one thing but 5cm is a pretty big move off the manufacturers recommendation. I can only speak in generalizations here but if you are not sure then I would err on the side of caution. It all depends on where the line is. If it is a true twin twip with a true middle of the ski mark, you'd definitely want them back a ways. Tons of twins or kinda twins (upturned tail really) have reasonable boot center lines set back from the true center of the ski. Then there is actual running surface to consider vs how turned up are the tails, true twin tip or no? Really depends on where that line is and unless someone has this specific ski and has played around with it themselves, any specific advice given would be done so without enough information.
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Old Nov 26, 2007, 8:19 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverc0il View Post
Why would you get a park ski if you want to have all mountain performance?
Call it an experiment? A real-world application of some theories I had read about fatter-waisted skis being the ideal all-mountain ski. The fact that this one also said that, in addition to being great in the park, it worked well all-mountain as well. And it was a cheap deal on eBay. Variety is the spice of life. I wanted something a bit different than my recreational Dynastar Novas. But I do not want to use them as a primarily park ski.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 6:31 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My personal preference is 1 cm back from BOF. Make sure that youre shop knows how to measure contact length, without using the specs/lines on the skis.

In the case I had with the Blue House skis I told them I wanted the center mounted for their specific purpose, and though they look like they are mounted forward, they are really not because of what the contact length is on those skis.
I'm rushing now or I'd post a pic, but I think I posted it here somewhere a few weeks ago, and I know I posted it early this morning on Ski Diva.
The twin tip does make a difference.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 7:10 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by severine View Post
Call it an experiment? A real-world application of some theories I had read about fatter-waisted skis being the ideal all-mountain ski. The fact that this one also said that, in addition to being great in the park, it worked well all-mountain as well. And it was a cheap deal on eBay. Variety is the spice of life. I wanted something a bit different than my recreational Dynastar Novas. But I do not want to use them as a primarily park ski.
I've heard the same thing regarding the K2 PE. I was considering pulling the trigger on them but was met with the same criticism as you. Not sure how your boards rate as an all-mountain but the PEs have a decent rep. Ski what you like but accept them for what they are.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 8:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grassi21 View Post
I've heard the same thing regarding the K2 PE. I was considering pulling the trigger on them but was met with the same criticism as you. Not sure how your boards rate as an all-mountain but the PEs have a decent rep. Ski what you like but accept them for what they are.
The PE is not a park ski. It is a all mountain that can still do ok in the park. I skied them for 2 years all mountain and loved them. They are real stiff which is great all mountain, but bad for park.

K2 claims 70% all mountain, 30% park.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 8:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trekchick View Post
Make sure that youre shop knows how to measure contact length, without using the specs/lines on the skis.
Right. I had my Cabrawlers mis-mounted this fall at this (to remain namesless to protect the innocent) particular shop. You and Brian know where I'm talking about. I asked them to be mounted 1 cm forward. There is a mid-sole line on the ski. They measured to the center point of the ski and went 1 cm forward from that! In their defense, they replaced the ski and got it right the second time around. You need to be very clear about what you want them to do.
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Old Nov 27, 2007, 8:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawkshot99 View Post
The PE is not a park ski. It is a all mountain that can still do ok in the park. I skied them for 2 years all mountain and loved them. They are real stiff which is great all mountain, but bad for park.

K2 claims 70% all mountain, 30% park.
I hear you. I think some people see the twin tip and assume its all about the park. Now I might reconsider that purchase...
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