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| Sunday, September 7, 2008 |
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| | #61 (permalink) | |
| I'm Baaaack! Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,176
| Quote:
Where do I get my knowledge? Some from the beginnings of trial and error. Some from a friend who worked in a ski shop. A lot from asking questions, and really paying attention to the shop pros when I took my skis in for work. Some, but not much from reading ski mags TONS, from Alpinord (Terry) on Epicski. He has really amp'ed up the Ski tuning forum area on Epic and is eager to answer questions gallore. Very knowledgeable. He is one of the owners of Slidewright. Ask away! If I dont know, I'll try to find out! | |
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| | #62 (permalink) |
| Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Southington, CT
Posts: 1,028
| Oh well screw taking them for a tune and wax then until someone can post something scientific that it will indeed help the bases in the long run. This is kinda like debating on when to change the oil in your car.... |
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| | #63 (permalink) | |
| I'm Baaaack! Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,176
| Quote:
Sometimes fun stuff is just that simple. | |
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| | #64 (permalink) | ||||
| Nassahegan 7/26/2008 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: CT
Posts: 4,029
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__________________ Carrie 2007-2008 ~ 20 2005-2006 ~ 2 2004 ~ 17 It is not easy to find happiness in ourselves, and it is not possible to find it elsewhere. ~ Agnes Repplier Pain is temporary. It may last a minute, or an hour, or a day, or a year, but eventually it will subside and something else will take its place. If I quit, however, it lasts forever. ~ Lance Armstrong | ||||
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| | #65 (permalink) | |
| I'm Baaaack! Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,176
| Quote:
Can you imagine if we'd had these high tech waxes back when we had our sleds as kids? Fun Stuff! Severine, if you want something simple you can do in a small place, look into the paste wax's. Like the one on Slighwright here Or the Swix version, which I've used with some success also. They just smear on and you rub them out with a plastic brush or a scotch pad, and head for the hill. Quick and easy way to keep the skis sliding between hard wax applications. A tub of this paste wax goes a loooong way. | |
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| | #66 (permalink) | |
| I'm with psycho --> | Quote:
Answers to questions without immediatley discernable results I'd prefer to be answered by someone formally edjucated in the subject. How do you know polyethylene has pores? If it is an extremely hydrophobic material, such as it is, how could it absorb and solid paritculate like dirt which is much bigger by several orders of magnitude than a molecule of water? If PE is nearly 15 times more abrasion resistant than carbon steel (from wikipedia) why would snow roughen it at all? ...Unless you might think steel would be roughened by snow. I tend to think not. Can you tell me exactly what happens to the material when it gets "base burn"? Why is it necesary to "structure" (aka, sand) ones base and how much difference does it make? Can anyone quantify it? Has there been any controlled, neutral testing done to support anyone's opinion on the matter? I think if people want to wax for better glide, if that matters to them, that's great. Sharpen the edges for better hold on hard snow and ice? Makes perfect sense. Lots of other stuff I read about bases just doesn't make sense. The materials they use (either UHMWPE or HDPE) are not mystery materials. We know a lot about PE and its properties. At least in the case of HDPE, it's the same stuff milk jugs are made from (in case anyone didn't know). UHMWPE is used to make sails, spectra (dyneema), bullet proof vests, artificial joints, etc. It has a coefficient of friction on par with teflon, 15 times more abrasion resistant than carbon steel, almost twice as abrasion resistant as stainless steel. Extremely non reactive. Self lubricating and wear resistant. Not especially resistant to high temperature. Resistant to stress cracking. It's a thermoplastic meaning it can melt to liquid and return to solid with experiencing a chemical change. Typically sheets like those made for ski bases are sintered. It just would seem to make sense to me to, since its only application is not for the base of a ski, learn about the material from more sources than those in the ski industry, especially those who stand to benefit by pedalling potentially inaccurate or nonsensical information....
__________________ Making sanity obsolete since 1982... | |
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| | #67 (permalink) | |
| Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Leominster, MA
Posts: 3,896
| Quote:
__________________ Schivergnügen | |
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| | #68 (permalink) |
| I'm with psycho --> | You could if your bases were HDPE, absolutely. Most skis that are not extemely cheap use UHMWPE, for which P-tex is just a trade name. I don't know if HDPE would bond to UHMWPE or not... it might actually. From what I gather, the difference between the two is a result of the lenght of the polyethylene chains, and the chains are held to each other by the Van der Walls forces (weak, molecule to molecule bonds, the reason water has surface tension and aligns as a crystal when a solid). It probably just wouldn't be as strong as using UHMWPE.
__________________ Making sanity obsolete since 1982... |
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| | #69 (permalink) | |
| Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,215
| Quote:
I agree with Mark on this one, I've been keeping my rock skis in the car all season long...up to the warmest days in spring, no waxing just keeping the edges sharp, no problems yet. My hidden motive is to ruin those skis and start another for the rocks but those suckers are tuff. | |
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| | #70 (permalink) | |
| I'm Baaaack! Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,176
| Quote:
If that floats your boat, then you just go right ahead and study the quantum physics of ski materials and the infinite possibilities of things that can effect the bases. While you're getting a crease in your forehead, I'll be getting some slope time. | |
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