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Tuckerman Ravine Prep


Crampons and ice axe are highly recommended. For people who debate this, remember that you don't really need them, until you really really need them. Picture Left Gully. Afternoon ...

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Old Apr 16, 2008, 2:49 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Crampons and ice axe are highly recommended. For people who debate this, remember that you don't really need them, until you really really need them.

Picture Left Gully. Afternoon of a beautiful day. A little wind starts to blow. You climb. Easy steps up the nice boot ladder. You climb some more. Right near the top, the boot ladder disappears in the shadows and the wind has turned the soft snow to ice. No amount of kicking gets you a toehold. You look down. Not going that way without skis or a board. Can't take the pack off without falling though. People are beginning to pile up below you on the boot ladder too. You are stuck. And starting to freak a little.

Or you have the right gear, climb straight up and barely even notice the ice. The skiing is dangerous in the Presidentials, but the climbing is dangerous-er.

John
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 2:52 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atkinson View Post
Crampons and ice axe are highly recommended. For people who debate this, remember that you don't really need them, until you really really need them.

Picture Left Gully. Afternoon of a beautiful day. A little wind starts to blow. You climb. Easy steps up the nice boot ladder. You climb some more. Right near the top, the boot ladder disappears in the shadows and the wind has turned the soft snow to ice. No amount of kicking gets you a toehold. You look down. Not going that way without skis or a board. Can't take the pack off without falling though. People are beginning to pile up below you on the boot ladder too. You are stuck. And starting to freak a little.

Or you have the right gear, climb straight up and barely even notice the ice. The skiing is dangerous in the Presidentials, but the climbing is dangerous-er.

John
Good point, thank you!
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 5:24 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I disagree with the comments on crampons on ice ax. Last year when you and I were up there and then when I went up in late May. I had folks with both flying past me going uphill, appears they do make a differnce. Also, I'm feeling adventurous and if conditions are good, may want to go for the summit. If snow is there I believe crampons will be helpful. As far as weight goes, I have no intention of skiing with all that on my back.So there

Be sure to get your butt up there!
Don't forget to practice using them before you go. You wouldn't want your first self arrest with an ax and cramps to be on a 35-40 degree slope with people below you. There are a lot of safety issues that go along with those sharp pointy things. If the weather is good and the boot ladder well packed out, they aren't really necessary, IMO, especially considering the weight penalty. John has a good point about getting stuck at the top of the gully when these tools would be helpful. My approach is the go when the snow is soft and the ladders are well established and climb less steep routes. Steeper routes with more exposure and questionable weather, I would consider them helpful tools with the appropriate practice and learning.
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 6:32 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Or you have the right gear, climb straight up and barely even notice the ice. The skiing is dangerous in the Presidentials, but the climbing is dangerous-er.

John
..and you don't even notice how icy the snow is then try to ski down because it was so easy to hike up and end up sliding down about 400 ft. of vert on complete boilerplate. Yep, that was my first experience with crampons.
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 10:08 PM   #35 (permalink)
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windproof/waterproof matches
lighter
stuff to clean cooking pots/pans and utemsils
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 10:11 PM   #36 (permalink)
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windproof/waterproof matches
lighter
stuff to clean cooking pots/pans and utemsils
That would be "Misc - Fire", but ,didn't think of cleaning stuff.thanks.
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 10:17 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Today I was trying out the sleeping bag, air pad, inflatable pillow, to see how they all feel and fit into the bag. My wife says "good thing you don't have an inflatable wife" I said "hmmm..."
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 10:47 PM   #38 (permalink)
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Old Apr 16, 2008, 11:00 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Pack and ski board carrying pix

















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Old Apr 16, 2008, 11:17 PM   #40 (permalink)
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Good stuff D, those pics help.
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