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| Thursday, December 4, 2008 |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Sundown: 11.30.08 Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Thomaston, CT
Posts: 22,521
| Total gaper MTB question. Are there any rules of thumb to shifting? I know you're not supposed to use the big chainring with the biggest sprocket or the small chainring with the smallest sprocket, but beyond that I just click around until I find a front/rear combo that works for whatever situation I'm in. I have to imagine there is a more elegant technique than that though. Any thoughts? |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 1,638
| Yep, use your thumbs to shift Don't know of any rules other than going easy on the pedalling when you downshift. Also, if you have a lower gear to go to, go to it as opposed to trying to torque it out in a higher gear - much easier on the chain/drivetrain. Other than that, learn how to adjust your derailleurs and how to fine tune cable tension on the shifter - goes a long way when you have an annoying shifting problem that starts up mid ride.
__________________ Sign, sign everywhere a sign... pointing out the trails, can\'t make up my mind. |
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| | #3 (permalink) |
| October 2008 turns Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Torrington, CT
Posts: 13,652
| I usually leave it the middle ring for most riding, you should be able to shift into all of the rear cogs without too much cross chaining issues. I only use the small ring for big climbs (make sure you shift into it before the climb starts) and then only use the 3 or so biggest cogs in the back. The big ring only gets used when I hit the road or a particularly fast piece of fire road and use the 3 smallest cogs.
__________________ Brian 08/09 - 10/29,11/21,11/28,11/29,11/30 SAC Tracker - Tramdock Tracker - Chainlove Tracker - WhiskeyMilitia Tracker 2008/09 Demo Days |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,050
| Well the first thing I did with my bike was to yank off the big ring up front and replace it with a bash guard. The big ring is useless on the trails and this gives me more clearance. I also replaced my middle ring from a 32 tooth ring to a 36 tooth ring. Like has been mentioned try not to cross chain all the time, but everyonce in a while is not going to hurt. Try to anticipate what gears you will need before a big / steep climb as shifting while climbing can be a pain. Especially with Shimando ders. I have found that SRAM ders shift much quicker and sharper and have less issues when changing gears while climbing. Also remember to use your gearing to regulate your heart rate and also rest your legs. When you are spinning really fast and your heart is racing shift into a higher gear. This will be harder on your legs but will give your heart rate a chance to recover. |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Devil's Castle Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Westchester County, NY and a Mountain near you!
Posts: 1,014
| This is the main reason why Shimano went to the new "shadow" design for the rear derailleurs. If you look at the SRAM's the cable goes directly into the derailleur. The Shimanos would go beyond the derailleur and then curl back into it. The new design (like the SRAM) is much better. Plus it doesn't kick back into the frame on bumpy terrain. |
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| | #6 (permalink) | |||
| Sundown: 11.30.08 Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Thomaston, CT
Posts: 22,521
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Seattle,WA
Posts: 1,638
| For long bumpy downhill sections choose bigger gears to take up the chain slack and minimize chainslap - the chain hitting the chainstay, although usually more of an issue with FS. As for shifting, I used to keep it around 4-6 on the cogs and depending on the terrain I'd just switch between small and middle chainring - ie. have it on middle and 5th on a flat and then as hit the uphill just downshift to small ring and hit the uphill on 5th or 4th. I like doing that because it's a good way to go into an uphill with speed and change gears to low last second. On my trails around here I do often have to go into my small chainring/big cog for short uphill sections... but all that stuff depends on the trails and the bike gearing, so YMMV.
__________________ Sign, sign everywhere a sign... pointing out the trails, can\'t make up my mind. |
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Sundown: 11.30.08 Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Thomaston, CT
Posts: 22,521
| Quote:
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| | #9 (permalink) | |
| Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,050
| Quote:
Tommorrow morning I am riding with a guy that rides a single speed. You heard me, one gear in front and one in the back and no shifting. The guy is an animal and I will be struggling to keep up with him with all my gears. And we are not talking about some flat easy ride. I can promise several times I will gas before the top of some long technical climb and have to hike the rest of the way while he makes it up no problem. | |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Sundown: 11.30.08 Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Thomaston, CT
Posts: 22,521
| Oh I'm sure, but some of the basic things are helpful. I'm a pathetic newbie, remember? Like forgoing the big ring; that might not have occurred to me for some time and I would have had that chain hopping all over the place as I tried to use every gear, so it's still useful to me to discuss the basics. At this point, I'm willing to try anything to help me become a more efficient rider. This stuff is all intuitive to you guys, but I'm still a bit of a gaper. |
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