sharpness....

SKIQUATTRO · Dec 1, 2011

Tuning Question...

I do all my own tuning...use file, bevel guides (1-3 degree), clap, ski vice, base "Beast" edge tool, wax, iron.....

cant seem to get a razor sharp edge...using the 3 degree side and 1 degree base...i use a tuning stick to check sharpness and shows its sharp, but i just picked up my daughters race skis (brand new and hand tuned by the Start House in Woodstock, VT) and i cut my hand on the edge.....how can i get my edges back to that ??

wa-loaf · Dec 1, 2011

From the Ski MD http://www.skimd.com/process.php

6. Once the grinding sequence is complete and verified, the ski may now move to the ceramic disc finisher. SkiMD’s disc machine operates a proprietary sequence and is likely the finest calibrated disc finisher in the country. Hand filing simply cannot compete for accuracy and the mirror like finish a properly run and calibrated disc machine can deliver. Edge angles are verified before moving to the final wax stage.

This guy is very popular with the local MA racers.

Glenn · Dec 1, 2011

That's pretty cool that he pulls the bindings off all the skis and boards first.

o3jeff · Dec 1, 2011

wa-loaf said:
From the Ski MD http://www.skimd.com/process.php

This guy is very popular with the local MA racers.

That looks very similar to the set up Suburban has, and I know they pull the bindings off too.

Morwax · Dec 1, 2011

Stone grinding is not something you want to do too often. Once a season should suffice. Too sharp will slow you down. Run your fingernail perpindicularly across your edge it should shave some off. If your edges cut your hand open they are too sharp and need to be detuned/deburred slightly.

Nick · Dec 1, 2011

my atomics were in rough shape last season.... not even going to discuss it :lol:

snowmonster · Dec 2, 2011

SKIQUATTRO said:
Tuning Question...

I do all my own tuning...use file, bevel guides (1-3 degree), clap, ski vice, base "Beast" edge tool, wax, iron.....

cant seem to get a razor sharp edge...using the 3 degree side and 1 degree base...i use a tuning stick to check sharpness and shows its sharp, but i just picked up my daughters race skis (brand new and hand tuned by the Start House in Woodstock, VT) and i cut my hand on the edge.....how can i get my edges back to that ??

You probably need to get rid of some of the sidewall. The file may not be angling as well as it should when you're prepping the side edge. Either get a sidewall cutter or a 7 degree file guide and panzar file. I had the same probles with one of my skis last season. At the start of this season, I aggresively removed some of the sidewall to get more angle. I also re-filed the base edge to set it up. All this resulted in a sharper edge. However, it wasn't a cut-you-hand-and-bleed type of edge. I suspect that if you really want that much sharpness, you should take it to a shop and let them use a machine. There are only so many passes that you can do manually with files and diamond stones.

billski · Dec 2, 2011

Morwax said:
Stone grinding is not something you want to do too often. Once a season should suffice. Too sharp will slow you down. Run your fingernail perpindicularly across your edge it should shave some off. If your edges cut your hand open they are too sharp and need to be detuned/deburred slightly.

What happens if they are "too sharp"?

snowmonster · Dec 2, 2011

^ If they are too sharp in the tips and tails, the skis tend to be hooky.

wa-loaf · Dec 2, 2011

Morwax said:
Too sharp will slow you down. Run your fingernail perpindicularly across your edge it should shave some off. If your edges cut your hand open they are too sharp and need to be detuned/deburred slightly.

billski said:
What happens if they are "too sharp"?

You want to detune the tips and tails to keep them from catching. You don't want edges too sharp if you are skiing a lot of soft snow, but on hardpack there's no such thing as too sharp.

Morwax · Dec 2, 2011

Ski tuning is a touchy subject like religion or politics.
Ideally you want a nice smooth almost 90 degree edge actually 87/88 degrees is most common. Grab a race tuned ski and run your finger along the edge..it wont cut your skin.. unless you push hard against it.

WWF-VT · Dec 2, 2011

wa-loaf said:
From the Ski MD http://www.skimd.com/process.php

This guy is very popular with the local MA racers.

Mike DeSantis is the best! I get an annual "Factory Fresh" tune and strongly recommend him.

Warp Daddy · Dec 2, 2011

I always have my Atomic shop tech guy do the 3/1 for me i do my own waxing . Always detune the tips and tails slightly to prevent "hookiness"

bigbog · Dec 2, 2011

Does sound like some sidewall material accumulating...however it is important to check for micro-accumulations of wax & filings, on the edges with each change of grit, from the file on up to the finest stone you have, and make sure you wet the file and each stone. Also use a brush to brush off the surface that you've just files/stoned...& check with thumbnail. If the larger grades' job isn't good...there's a chance that anything stoning after that won't be much better = will just grind off much easier....and keep your stones & files clean. If they become roughed up in areas = won't sharpen the edges as good as they can if you use those areas on the stone..
$.01

skidbump · Dec 3, 2011

I have had my skis the equivalent to a race tune and took 1 run, borrowed a gummi stone and detuned from tip to tail.Unless your gonna ride your edges and be carving on ice or racing a home tune edge should be fine.

skidmarks · Dec 3, 2011

skidbump said:
I have had my skis the equivalent to a race tune and took 1 run, borrowed a gummi stone and detuned from tip to tail.Unless your gonna ride your edges and be carving on ice or racing a home tune edge should be fine.

Sounds like the edges had burrs on them and/or the skis didn't have 1 degree of base bevel

This outlines our tuning process
http://suburbanskiandbike.com/store/content/66/Precision-Ski-Tuning-Details/

You can do a very nice job at home if the base of your skis have a good structure and a base bevel of less than 1 degree. You will need to remove some sidewall or cap flash before you can cut in the side edge bevel with a file. Next step would be to polish the edges with a series of stones. The end result will be a sharp ski free of burrs.

sharpness....

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