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Late Summer 2011 : Skiing 85.7% of lift running Europe

MadPatSki

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I'm cross-posting on AZ as some people might be interesting what is offered summer skiing wise in the Alps. I did a compilation TR (a few of the TRs have been posted here, but not all) of my 85.7% sample of European Late Summer Skiing in 2011.

By August 2011, only seven ski areas in Europe were still offering liftserved skiing (FirstTracksOnline News).

- Tignes, France
- Les Deux Alpes, France
- Zermatt, Switzerland
- Saas-Fee, Switzerland
- Passo dello Stelvio, Italy
- Hintertux, Austria (August and September)
- Mölltaler Gletscher, Austria

(Individual TRs links in compilation TR)




I wasn’t in Europe to ski, but I was going to ski in Europe. I had hoped going on our last Summer in Europe back in 1998, but a record heat wave and a freak accident prevented me from doing so.

This time, 13 years later, I was going to cross off the months August and September in my ski streak. Then it occurred to me, wouldn’t be interesting to make a comparison between each ski areas still activate within the same time period. It didn’t start that way, but as time the weeks passed by, it became a goal. The fact that I probably not return to do a summer tour of European glaciers made it even more appealing. Visiting them side-by-side in the same time period at the closing of the Summer season and give me a better ideas of what Europe got to offer to skiers in the late Summer months.

Only Zermatt and Hintertux are open year-round while the others shutdown once the Summer comes to an end: some of them for a few weeks, while Passo dello Stelvio is only open in Summer.

This is a list of different aspect of each summer ski areas. I don’t like to talk about “Best of” lists, but the following is more according to my opinions, thus the reason why I call it “Favorites”. For many of them, the actual summer terrain was greater than what was left at the end of the season. The following only reflected of what was left.

Click link to continue : Late Summer 2011 : Skiing 85.7% of lift running Europe
http://madpatski.wordpress.com/2013/09/08/late-summer-2011-skiing-85-7-of-lift-running-europe/
 

Domeskier

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Awesome report, MadPatSki. Makes me want to book a flight to Europe right now! Did any of the resorts have bump runs open to the public? Looked mostly groomed from the pics.
 

MadPatSki

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It's a great post MadPatSki.....and you're gonna pay for the roundtrip airfare!!...Y/n:thumbup:

Thanks ... and you talking to me???:popcorn:

Domeskier said:
Makes me want to book a flight to Europe right now! Did any of the resorts have bump runs open to the public? Looked mostly groomed from the pics.

Like I said in my TR, flying to Europe to ski only isn't really worth it in term of cost quality skiing. Zermatt was roughly charging $100US for a one day 7am to 1:30pm skiing lift ticket. I did 7 days in 6 weeks and decided will I was there that I might want to try them all out (skied 6 out of 7 open areas).

I might have seen a narrow zipper line somewhere, but no bump camps was happening. I'll have to look at my pics, I'll check it out and come back to you on this. Its like at Timberline on Mt. Hood on Labor Day weekend. There was a narrow zipper line of bumps on the Palmer snowfield, but unless you were on it, you didn't notice it.
 

Domeskier

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Like I said in my TR, flying to Europe to ski only isn't really worth it in term of cost quality skiing. Zermatt was roughly charging $100US for a one day 7am to 1:30pm skiing lift ticket. I did 7 days in 6 weeks and decided will I was there that I might want to try them all out (skied 6 out of 7 open areas).

I might have seen a narrow zipper line somewhere, but no bump camps was happening. I'll have to look at my pics, I'll check it out and come back to you on this. Its like at Timberline on Mt. Hood on Labor Day weekend. There was a narrow zipper line of bumps on the Palmer snowfield, but unless you were on it, you didn't notice it.

Thanks. I guess they need to recoup their operating costs somehow.... Looks like you are right about South America being the way to go for skiing in July/August.
 

MadPatSki

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Thanks. I guess they need to recoup their operating costs somehow.... Looks like you are right about South America being the way to go for skiing in July/August.

Well, Switzerland is super expensive. Initially prior to leaving France, I was thinking of skiing 4-days at Zermatt/Saas-Fee. The cost for a lift ticket elsewhere in the Alps was somewhere around 30 euros ($45 US). Skiing at Timberline on Mt Hood was $60 this summer.

I looked at New Zealand a few times, but cost would also be expensive as the need to rent a car is greater there. So South America can be done on the cheap and is probably the cheapest (cost/quality) skiing to be found in the summer time (unless you live out West).

Skiing ain't super cheap in South America (maybe around $40-60 range if I recall), but the rest of the travels there can be.

This is what I wrote on Firsttracksonline
What is the off-season premium? Total cost (taxes, cabs, meals in restaurants, bus, fees has me in the range $150-$175 CDN per day for 13 day (9 ski days + high guide premium in Pucon). Yeck, just going to Stowe for two days skiing on a weekend without food, gas and sleeping in a car has me over that price.
(...)
I said this was the total cost of my trip, period.
smileyvault-stirthepot.gif
$150-175 CDN is including airfare (I didn't mention it on purpose).

Maybe you understand better my rational. I taken detailed cost of my trips in previous years and this isn't too far off the cost per day from previous year. Pretty much in the same ballpark and rarely more.

All cost...beer, chocolate bar I bought at the bus stop, internet, ALL expenses....I had an option of cooking my own meals, but opted for the expensive and lazy way...I went to the restaurant and bought cerverzas with my meal. That cost could have been real lower by going everything at the hostels.

I'll be able to make an exact cost once I re-adjust the exchange rate charge on my card and It would seem I overestimated the cost of the Argentine pesos. I also need to take into account, bank charges for using the ATM down there.

Roughtly, that trip cost me $2300 CDN.

Here is the combination TR (there is a TR with each day):
13 days and pictures: Ottawa to Patagonia and back.
http://madpatski.wordpress.com/2012/06/08/13-days-and-pictures-ottawa-to-patagonia-and-back/


I've been to South America for roughly 2 weeks in 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 and 2012.
 

bigbog

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MadPat,
Have you encountered any of those single-lane, mountain pass roads at all on the way to/from? Man in winter I can just imagine the scenario...:-o Or are those mostly in Bolivia...?
 

MadPatSki

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MadPat,
Have you encountered any of those single-lane, mountain pass roads at all on the way to/from? Man in winter I can just imagine the scenario...:-o Or are those mostly in Bolivia...?

The only single (or really narrow two lanes) would have been the road into El Arpa cat-skiing in Chile. Craziest road would be the one up to Valle Nevado just above Santiago. Puke factor 11. It was nice to see guardrails last year. The only thing preventing you from going over the edge of crashing hundreds of feet below at my last visit in 2007 was maybe one inch of gravel. :-? That being said, the traffic is only one-way in the morning and evenings I believe.

The road up to Portillo is the main connection with Argentina and has tons of van crossing over. But there is also a crazy amount of switchbacks. The other important connection is the one I crossed in 2010 between Osorno and Villa La Angustura (pictured with the van and snow).

The roads to ski areas featured south from Santiago are mellower as the ski areas aren't as high in the mountains.
 

Domeskier

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Roughtly, that trip cost me $2300 CDN.

Here is the combination TR (there is a TR with each day):
13 days and pictures: Ottawa to Patagonia and back.
http://madpatski.wordpress.com/2012/06/08/13-days-and-pictures-ottawa-to-patagonia-and-back/


I've been to South America for roughly 2 weeks in 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 and 2012.

Thanks for the link. Another great report. If you were only going to hit a single resort in SA for 5-6 skiing days, would you have a preference?
 

MadPatSki

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Thanks for the link. Another great report. If you were only going to hit a single resort in SA for 5-6 skiing days, would you have a preference?

My preference might not be the same as someone else. It depends what the person's is looking for.

Here are the ski areas I've been too (most of them have TRs on my blog except Portillo, El Arpa and Las Lenas).

***Place that people might want to want to stay for one week, but not necessarily me. Its pretty suggestive. Some people might be bored with Sugarloaf (or any other ski areas) for one week while other wouldn't. Lets just say, if the skiing is really good, I really get bored. Unfortunately that isn't always the case.

North to South:

El Arpa (cat-skiing)(Chile) - not a resort

***Portillo (Chile) - 3 days in 2007
70 miles from Santiago. The "resort" - it has the cruise ship feeling. There is also a cheaper lodging option than at the fancy hotel. Its more the general atmosphere of the place.

Los Penintentes (Argentina) - 2 days in 2009.
Maybe 20 miles East of Portillo. Less snow and limited runs.

***La Parva/El Colorado/Valle Nevada (Chile) - 2 days in 2007 and 3 days in 2012.
Maybe 35 miles from Santiago, these 3 areas can be skied one to the next, however they weren't any combine tickets when I went. I simply did day-trip shuttles from Santiago. One of the most modern place in SA.

***Termas de Chillan (now Nevados de Chillan)(Chile) - 3 days in 2007 and 4 days in 2012.
My favorite. Old lift, but terrain is vast and easy access to backcountry. This one is 400 miles south of Santiago. Hot springs. You don't have to stay at the resort.

***Las Lenas (Argentina) - 4 days in 2010 - snow-in for another 2 days.
In the middle of nowhere. Another resort with resort prices. This is the one of the World rare places where you can kill yourself skiing less than 5 minutes from the top of the Marte lift. You can scare yourself silly here. Not much to do if you get snow in except drinking wine and going to the casino. The whole ski area is in a avy zone, so it gets shutdown. Either you need to fly closer to there or take a few long bus rides (Santiago and Buenos Aires - 15-17 hours away)

Pucon (Chile) - 1 run in 2008 and 2 days in 2010 including a volcano climb.
Cool little town. A bunch of hot springs. The ski terrain is flat and limited. Volcano climb is cool. - 550 miles south of Santiago.

**Chapelco (Argentina) - 3 runs in 2008 before the power went out from 1 meter of heavy wet snow.
Same latitude as Pucon. Didn't really see much, but its not on the top places. Second tier. San Martin de Los Andes is a nice very touristy town.

Cerro Bayo (Argentina) - 1 days in each 2008 and 2010.
A smaller touristy town of Villa La Angostura about 60 miles from Bariloche (25 hours bus ride from Buenos Aires, maybe 17 from Santiago). The ski area is having a major expansion, but terrain is limited for an entire week. You could have fun there for a week if the conditions are good, but it doesn't take much to go around the place.

***Cerro Catedral (Argentina) - 2 days in each 2008 and 2010.
Next to Bariloche (city). Probably the biggest resort in Argentina. Lifts everywhere, you can also stay in Bariloche and take public transit in the morning. Not my favorite resort, but its pretty big.

**La Hoya (Argentina) - 2 days in 2008 and 4 in 2010.
3 hours south of Bariloche and off the radar in Esquel. Definitely not a resort. Limited lift access, but terrain beyond that.

There are other ski areas, but all the most important are included above.

My fav?:
Termas followed by La Hoya

Classic to ski at least once:
Portillo

Most commercial : Areas above Santiago are easy access and modern. Pretty intermediate ski resorts. Cerro Catedral is pretty commercial also.

Las Lenas is hard to get too, but if you looking to scare yourself off-piste, it is the place.
 

Domeskier

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Thanks for this very helpful response, MatPatSki. The only SA resort I had any passing familiarity with is Portillo, which, along with La Parva/El Colorado/Valle Nevada, sound like the best option for me. I'm not a particularly adventerous traveler, so proximity to an international airport and major city is a good thing. As far as terrain goes, I generally seek out bumps and can live without steeps/trees/backcountry, so a place like Las Lenas is probably not necessary.
 

MadPatSki

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The only SA resort I had any passing familiarity with is Portillo, which, along with La Parva/El Colorado/Valle Nevada, sound like the best option for me. I'm not a particularly adventerous traveler, so proximity to an international airport and major city is a good thing. As far as terrain goes, I generally seek out bumps and can live without steeps/trees/backcountry, so a place like Las Lenas is probably not necessary.

Eventually I'll get something written on Portillo. Here is a description of my first trip to Chile...start of the trip was Valle Nevado on a daytrip from Santiago. If should give you an idea of the place. The second TR is the next day at neighbouring El Colorado and La Parva. So one week at Portillo or one week at the three ski areas above Santiago would make perfect sense for you. Terrain is not as vast in Portillo compared to the three, but it is a real classic experience. You are alone at the high mountain resort. Regardless of your budget (from dorms to luxery suite at the Hotel, you get to use the facilities (pool). When you stay in Portillo, it is all inclusive (lift tickets, hotel, meals).

Chilean Adventure (the novel) – 2 weeks in Aug/Sept 2007 – Part 1 – Santiago & Valle Nevado


http://madpatski.wordpress.com/2007...ure-the-novel-2-weeks-in-augsept-2007-part-1/

Chilean Adventure (the novel) Aug/Sep 07 – Part 2a – El Colorado/LaParva


http://madpatski.wordpress.com/2008/05/18/chilean-adventure-the-novel-augsep-07-part-2a/
 

Domeskier

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Eventually I'll get something written on Portillo. Here is a description of my first trip to Chile...start of the trip was Valle Nevado on a daytrip from Santiago. If should give you an idea of the place. The second TR is the next day at neighbouring El Colorado and La Parva. So one week at Portillo or one week at the three ski areas above Santiago would make perfect sense for you. Terrain is not as vast in Portillo compared to the three, but it is a real classic experience. You are alone at the high mountain resort. Regardless of your budget (from dorms to luxery suite at the Hotel, you get to use the facilities (pool). When you stay in Portillo, it is all inclusive (lift tickets, hotel, meals).


Definitely need to get down there. Many thanks for the links!
 
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