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Learn any lessons from this winter?

Not Sure

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How many can say they "ski very well when young"? How "well" could that be? Unless you're a former Olympian, that is.

One of my neighborhood friends father sent him to freestyle camp when he was 12, Everyone of my friends became a better skier just trying to keep up with him.
 

Zand

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I learned to stop "waiting for the good part of winter" and ski what's available at any given time. I've gotten a grand total of 7 days this winter because I waited around early season for it to get better. Suddenly it's March and I have a grand total of 3 days. As I was driving up to Wachusett yesterday just to ski for one more hour after work, I regretted all the times I was going to go this winter but said "eh I'll just go next week" and now there is no next week. Hoping to get up to Killington once or twice now but definitely made some wrong choices this winter.

I think the most telling thing that my brain was trying to show me that I was going to regret not going all winter was that I was purposely avoiding reading and posting here so that I wouldn't see everyone else having fun and feel worse about not going. Maybe it would've motivated me to go if I did come on here but live and learn I guess.
 

deadheadskier

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Does the chart really have a 3+ these days? Why would they not just call it 4?

I've never seen one that has 3+ written on the slip. I was just told long ago that the 3 settings really doesn't cover an aggressive skier. So, for years a shop has just put a plus next to the 3 and circled it.

I'm not claiming to be Highwaystar, I just know that a 9 for my height, weight and how I ski has never been a high enough DIN to prevent frequent pre-releases.
 

witch hobble

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I've never seen one that has 3+ written on the slip. I was just told long ago that the 3 settings really doesn't cover an aggressive skier. So, for years a shop has just put a plus next to the 3 and circled it. I'm not claiming to be Highwaystar, I just know that a 9 for my height, weight and how I ski has never been a high enough DIN to prevent frequent pre-releases.
I thought I was gonna learn something there. Highest din setting is for tall, heavy expert skier with small feet.
 

Rushski

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Definitely learned that I'm better off on my fairly wide all-mountain skis, even in firm conditions.

Just feel more stable on my 90 underfoot skis than I do on my carvers from quite a few years ago. Truly feel more comfortable and therefore more confident which leads me to believe I'm skiing better on the wider planks.

Maybe getting back on the carvers a couple times and not being used to them has some bearing on this?
 

Hawkshot99

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A ski shop guy like Hawkshot can confirm this for me, but I basically think the + just has them bump the Din up a Notch.

A 3+ is basically the same as a type 4 skier. I dont know why they call it a 3+. Doesnt neccisarily bump the Din a notch, it all depends on the chart and where you fall.

For me a type 3 is a 9.5 din, a type 3+ is a 11.
 

cdskier

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I've learned that many people apparently have much higher DIN settings than I do. I've been using 7 for years and never had a problem and always considered myself a somewhat aggressive skier (granted I'm not jumping off cliffs, etc).
 

fbrissette

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Why "small feet"?

DIN scale is ultimately based (through empirical evidence) on bone strength and it's ability to resist forces. For a given force at the toe, the torque at the leg is larger if the lever (boot length) is longer. If you have the din setting identical on longer boots, the release force at the binding correspond to a higher torque at the leg and a higher likelihood of injury.
 

bdfreetuna

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keep the faith
That's why I only have mine set to 10 with size 12 feet being a 4++ skier. (kidding)

It was getting to the point the bindings were releasing way too much though. Maybe they were getting worn out. Not really great bindings in the first place, I don't think, just Rossignol Axiums that came with the ski.

Since this has turned into binding discussion thread anyway... and since I'm getting new skis for next season... does anyone want to give me reasons why I should pony up a bit more $ for fancy bindings? Is it really worth it if you're not racing?
 

yeggous

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That's why I only have mine set to 10 with size 12 feet being a 4++ skier. (kidding)

Since this has turned into binding discussion thread anyway... and since I'm getting new skis for next season... does anyone want to give me reasons why I should pony up a bit more $ for fancy bindings? Is it really worth it if you're not racing?

Excellent question. Would love to have a discussion about this. I have been told it's about the width of the toe piece and mounting platform vs the width of the ski. Cheaper bindings tend to have a narrower platform that don't as readily transfer torque to a wider ski. Please correct me!


Sent from my iPhone using AlpineZone mobile app
 

fbrissette

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I've learned that many people apparently have much higher DIN settings than I do. I've been using 7 for years and never had a problem and always considered myself a somewhat aggressive skier (granted I'm not jumping off cliffs, etc).

You should not read too much into that. Final DIN setting is related to risk tolerance a lot more than skier ability. For strong skiers, charts are a starting point to be adjusted on empirical experience. Your choice of DIN is a balance between retention and injury risk. I prefer to be conservative since I believe the risk of injury from an unwanted release to be much smaller than binding not releasing on a big fall. Typically, on a 50-day season I will fall twice. Once from an unwanted release, and a real one resulting in binding release. I'm happy with this balance. I have a few friends who will not tolerate any unwanted release and who use real high DIN values. They all have something in common however - ligament damage at some point.

If you are not experiencing unwanted releases, don't change it.
 

cdskier

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If you are not experiencing unwanted releases, don't change it.

Yea, I have no plans to change it since I'm not having issues. My dad did have problems with pre-releasing on powder days with his powder skis a year or two ago. We didn't realize that due to his age the DIN charts say to use a lower DIN. We had it bumped back up and now he doesn't have issues anymore.
 

fbrissette

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does anyone want to give me reasons why I should pony up a bit more $ for fancy bindings? Is it really worth it if you're not racing?

Typically, more expensive bindings have the following features:

1- stronger build (they will last longer, no cheap plastics)
2- more elasticity at the toe and heel (this would mean you could get away with a lower DIN thus reducing the risk of injury while reducing unwanted release - in other words, you would typically need more DINS on a cheap binding and still end up with more unwanted releases)
3- more releasing mode (more degrees of liberty).
4- better anti-friction mechanisms

To me, no 1 and 2 are the reasons where you should go for a high-quality binding.

Some real good deals on internet right now.
 
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