'Go to' gear combo

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  1. #1
    Greg's Avatar
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    'Go to' gear combo

    What's your "go to" gear combo?



    For me, I usually start pedaling in 2-1 (middle ring, largest cog). It's also my usual gearing for slow techy sections. Towards the end of last season, I started trying to bypass using the small ring entirely, but this season I've found some good gearing using it lately which is not too low, but low enough to help on climbs when the gas tank is just about empty.
    I ski double black diamonds.

  2. #2
    mondeo's Avatar
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    Whatever feels right at the time.
    2009-2010:
    Killington: 11/7, 11/21, 12/5, 12/6, 12/10, 12/12, 12/13, 12/22, 12/23, 1/1, 1/2, 1/9, 1/10, 1/23, 1/24 (15)

    Ski Sundown: 12/18, 12/19, 12/20, 12/24, 12/30, 1/3, 1/4, 1/5, 1/6, 1/7, 1/8, 1/11 - 1/22, 1/26-1/30 (27)
    EH XC: 12/21 (1)
    WNY XC/NELSAP BC: 12/29 (1)

    Total: 44

  3. #3
    bvibert's Avatar
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    I usually start pedaling in whatever gear I was in when I stopped. Sometimes that's less than optimal and I fail. I guess 2-4 or 2-5 is my go to, that's where I tend to be the most, I think.
    Brian

  4. #4
    On my bike the gear is 2:1. I run a 36:18. Sometimes I walk.
    If it ain't Poe, I don't go.

  5. #5
    Trekchick's Avatar
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    32:16 works for me on m SS, but I like a bit of a stiffer gear when I'm riding my HT.
    Building a quiver is just foreplay for snowgasms

  6. #6
    bvibert's Avatar
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    I think I'd be doing a LOT of walking if 2:1 was my only option.
    Brian

  7. #7
    marcski's Avatar
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    I go with what feels right...based on the terrain and my energy level. You don't really want to be pushing around a big cog if you don't have to.......spin baby spin!

  8. #8
    Greg's Avatar
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    Again, on long grueling climbs, I start out 2-1. Usually, when I start to really fade, I'll drop to 1-1. The problem is that gearing is so load, I start lifting up front. I need to start remembering to begin climbs at 2-2 or 2-3, then when I drop to the granny gear it won't be so low. Dropping down on the chainring is more reliable than trying to get the chain up on the rear cog while actively climbing, I've found.
    I ski double black diamonds.

  9. #9
    bvibert's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg View Post
    Dropping down on the chainring is more reliable than trying to get the chain up on the rear cog while actively climbing, I've found.
    I've found the opposite. I can't usually drop into the granny unless I'm spinning on relatively flat ground. I can usually shift the rear into a lower gear by letting off pressure on the pedals slightly right at the time of the shift.
    Brian

  10. #10
    You guys should never try and shift under load. Basic rule. If you have to downshift on a climb, you should time it in a place where you can get a few good hard stroke and throw the shift while you just ghost pedal. You should never crank on your rear derailure while cranking hard on your pedals, and you should never try and drop down in front letting your front D just scrape along your chain waiting to push it down. You need to pick a gear and stick with it, and or learn to "push the clutch in" at key poins in a climb where you can relieve tension on the chain so your derailures can shift easily. MTB 101 there...that's why it's so important to shift BEFORE the hill. Greg...if your climbing in 1:1..slide up onto the nose of you saddle and keep you chest low to the bars....use the upstroke more, you have less chance of spinning out or wheeling..
    2:1 is fairly stiff for around here. Bottom line, I like having more gear for flat and rolling trail and don't mind the odd walk. I ussually have to walk when most folks hit a low gear so that they really don't drop me that much and I can ussually keep them in sight. When you're grinding away in 1:2, 1:3, I can pretty much walk that fast....plus it gives me an excuse to walk the shitty climbs.
    If it ain't Poe, I don't go.

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