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Going Rate for Binding Mount and Check

o3jeff

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I'd be more likely to make my own jig than pay $50+ to have someone else do it....

That's the reason I kind of like the idea of system bindings, I don't have to worry about getting bent over to have them mounted...

If skidmarks doesn't mount my new bindings for free I'll bring them to you:-D
 

o3jeff

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If I have to make a jig I charge $125. If you want me to 'eye-ball' it I charge $50...

I'll give you $10 for your $50 "eye mount" service since they are twin tips so even if they get put on backwards I will still be able to ski them
 
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I'd be more likely to make my own jig than pay $50+ to have someone else do it....

That's the reason I kind of like the idea of system bindings, I don't have to worry about getting bent over to have them mounted...

I'd like to see that! What are you going to use to make the jig? Do you have any idea what kind of drill bit you need to mount a ski? What if the ski has metal in it? Do you epoxy or glue the screws...or nothing?
 

bvibert

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I'd like to see that! What are you going to use to make the jig? Do you have any idea what kind of drill bit you need to mount a ski? What if the ski has metal in it? Do you epoxy or glue the screws...or nothing?

Dude, it isn't rocket science, it's drilling holes in something. I drill holes in various materials all the time. It wouldn't be too hard to make a cheap jig out of a piece of scrap plexiglass or lexan on a drill press. As a matter of fact I think someone on TGR was doing just that a while back and selling them to fellow maggots. Line up the 'jig' on the ski, clamp it down, get the right drill bit, and you're good to go. As far as getting the correct drill bit there's several sources on line for such information, buying a $15 drill bit from tognar should do the trick. If it had metal in it then I guess I'd have to tap it, however I don't know likely it is that I'll have a ski with metal in it, I like a nice wood core. I'd probably use a little bit of wood glue on the screws.

Does that answer your questions?

For sub $50 I'd be more than happy to let someone else mount my bindings with the proper equipment, start going too much north of that and I'm looking for alternatives. I'm not rich, I have to make due with what I can, that usually means buying cheap skis. I'm not going to spend $100 to mount skis that I bought for $200...

BTW - I fix my own cars, appliances, plumbing, etc.. too. Is there a problem with that too?
 
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Dude, it isn't rocket science, it's drilling holes in something. I drill holes in various materials all the time. It wouldn't be too hard to make a cheap jig out of a piece of scrap plexiglass or lexan on a drill press. As a matter of fact I think someone on TGR was doing just that a while back and selling them to fellow maggots. Line up the 'jig' on the ski, clamp it down, get the right drill bit, and you're good to go. As far as getting the correct drill bit there's several sources on line for such information, buying a $15 drill bit from tognar should do the trick. If it had metal in it then I guess I'd have to tap it, however I don't know likely it is that I'll have a ski with metal in it, I like a nice wood core. I'd probably use a little bit of wood glue on the screws.

Does that answer your questions?

For sub $50 I'd be more than happy to let someone else mount my bindings with the proper equipment, start going too much north of that and I'm looking for alternatives. I'm not rich, I have to make due with what I can, that usually means buying cheap skis. I'm not going to spend $100 to mount skis that I bought for $200...

BTW - I fix my own cars, appliances, plumbing, etc.. too. Is there a problem with that too?

sometimes a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing and I've seen some pretty messed up home mount jobs...but as long as I don't have to ride in your car, or ski on your skis, go for it Bob Villa. Maybe you think I'm nuts for paying $30 for an oil change or for calling the HVAC guy when the furnace doesn't work.
Wait a minute, aren't you also the guy who didn't have enough time to wax his own skis or sharpen his own edges? You're DIY superman when it comes to cars, plumbing and appliances, will even spend the time to craft a plexi jig on the drill press for mounting...but can't be bothered with simple ski tuning? Seems contradictory.

I don't blame you for not wanting to pay over $50 for a mount though...there isn't anything happening in the backshop with a binding mount that is worth more than $50.
 

bvibert

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sometimes a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing and I've seen some pretty messed up home mount jobs...but as long as I don't have to ride in your car, or ski on your skis, go for it Bob Villa. Maybe you think I'm nuts for paying $30 for an oil change or for calling the HVAC guy when the furnace doesn't work.
Wait a minute, aren't you also the guy who didn't have enough time to wax his own skis or sharpen his own edges? You're DIY superman when it comes to cars, plumbing and appliances, will even spend the time to craft a plexi jig on the drill press for mounting...but can't be bothered with simple ski tuning? Seems contradictory.

Never said I was a superman, when something goes wrong I'll fix it myself. Can't be bothered with ski tuning is exactly right. If I thought it was that important I'd surely be able to make time, as I do when something breaks. Having bindings mounted to my skis is much more important to me than having a silly layer of wax on there.

I'm sure there are plenty of botched home mounting jobs out there. I'm certainly not advocating that everyone should mount their own. Nor am I saying that's what I normally do (or have ever done). However if faced with a mounting fee of over $50 I'd certainly consider doing it myself. The higher the charge the more strongly I'd consider it.

I don't blame you for not wanting to pay over $50 for a mount though...there isn't anything happening in the backshop with a binding mount that is worth more than $50.

So we have an understanding then. I don't understand why you're being so critical if you understand my point exactly???
 
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So we have an understanding then. I don't understand why you're being so critical if you understand my point exactly???

I'll have to credit that to a combination of sleep depravation...got a 3 week old at home, and my perception (right or wrong) of the brashness your "i'll make my own jig" post...didn't want the avg skier thinking it would be easy to do and a good thing to start mounting their own equipment with home made jigs.

While its not rocket science, its pretty easy to screw something up...drill too shallow, too deep, or use the wrong bit and your screws will pull out, or dimple the base, or you'll drill right through. Mess up on the jig, or don't center it side to side or front to back and you'll dramatically impact the way the skis feel...or you won't be able to fit your boots into the binding. If you don't know how to set your forward pressure correctly you could either walk right out of the bindings or not come out when you need to...with a factory jig the fwd pressure is usually right on or w/in a mm, but with a DIY jig you may not be as accurate...etc. I haven't paid a dime for a mount in the last 20 years...but I've got the factory jigs I need, a mounting bench, a 4.1 x 9.5 countersink bit, a #3 posi-drive, and plenty of experience doing it...yet every once in a while, maybe one time every two years, I'll strip a hole when putting in a screw even though the clutch was set on 15 and I had to hand tighten the other 15 screws on the pair...then its time to break out the heli-coil kit and fix the problem.


So...part public service message; don't want to hear about anyone getting hurt and ending their season because they messed up their mount, and part bait to see if you had enough of a clue to try it yourself...and if not, I'd have had a little fun ridiculing your obvious incompetence :smash: and pointing you out as a prime example of why this is not a good idea for the average skier. Call me a troll...ban me, whatever, its been a little slow around here and I wanted to :stirpot:

As for the tuning, fuggetabout the wax...you think its a silly waste of time, but do yourself a favor man and get a medium grit diamond stone and take 5 minutes every couple of weeks and deburr your edges...it'll make a HUGE difference in how your skis hold on hard snow. SEV, BUY HIM A DIAMOND STONE FOR HIS CHRISTMAS STOCKING (and make him deburr your edges too!) You'll thank me later.
 
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bvibert

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I'll have to credit that to a combination of sleep depravation...got a 3 week old at home, and my perception (right or wrong) of the brashness your "i'll make my own jig" post...didn't want the avg skier thinking it would be easy to do and a good thing to start mounting their own equipment with home made jigs.

While its not rocket science, its pretty easy to screw something up...drill too shallow, too deep, or use the wrong bit and your screws will pull out, or dimple the base, or you'll drill right through. Mess up on the jig, or don't center it side to side or front to back and you'll dramatically impact the way the skis feel...or you won't be able to fit your boots into the binding. If you don't know how to set your forward pressure correctly you could either walk right out of the bindings or not come out when you need to...with a factory jig the fwd pressure is usually right on or w/in a mm, but with a DIY jig you may not be as accurate...etc. I haven't paid a dime for a mount in the last 20 years...but I've got the factory jigs I need, a mounting bench, a 4.1 x 9.5 countersink bit, a #3 posi-drive, and plenty of experience doing it...yet every once in a while, maybe one time every two years, I'll strip a hole when putting in a screw even though the clutch was set on 15 and I had to hand tighten the other 15 screws on the pair...then its time to break out the heli-coil kit and fix the problem.


So...part public service message; don't want to hear about anyone getting hurt and ending their season because they messed up their mount, and part bait to see if you had enough of a clue to try it yourself...and if not, I'd have had a little fun ridiculing your obvious incompetence :smash: and pointing you out as a prime example of why this is not a good idea for the average skier. Call me a troll...ban me, whatever, its been a little slow around here and I wanted to :stirpot:

As for the tuning, fuggetabout the wax...you think its a silly waste of time, but do yourself a favor man and get a medium grit diamond stone and take 5 minutes every couple of weeks and deburr your edges...it'll make a HUGE difference in how your skis hold on hard snow. SEV, BUY HIM A DIAMOND STONE FOR HIS CHRISTMAS STOCKING (and make him deburr your edges too!) You'll thank me later.

Completely understand the lack of sleep thing, my youngest is 2 years old and just only recently started sleeping all the way through the night consistently...

You're right that maybe my posts made it seem easier than it is, that wasn't my intention. I know that it's something that I could handle if I needed too, but fully recognize that it isn't for everyone.

BTW, yes I do know how to set forward pressure on a few different makes of bindings. I also realize that the factory jig makes it a LOT easier, and that doing it at home would take a lot more patience and care.

So, thanks for the public service announcement. I suppose it was needed to counter act my posts. Does what you wrote above mean that I gave you adequate answers to make you think that I actually have a clue?? ;)

As far as the tuning goes; I'll take your advice into consideration. I already have some sort of stone, but I don't think it has any diamonds in it... Though I still contend that one must actually have some sort of edges first before running a stone over them to debur will make any difference...:lol:

And, no I don't think you're a troll, and banning you has never even crossed my mind....
 
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I have a gummy stone..will that do? ;) I don't need him to deburr my edges. I can do it myself. :D

no, gummy is only for detunning...taking an edge that is too sharp and dulling it...and files take too much material off for deburring. Sorry, didn't mean to imply that you couldn't do it yourself.
 
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Completely understand the lack of sleep thing, my youngest is 2 years old and just only recently started sleeping all the way through the night consistently...

You're right that maybe my posts made it seem easier than it is, that wasn't my intention. I know that it's something that I could handle if I needed too, but fully recognize that it isn't for everyone.

BTW, yes I do know how to set forward pressure on a few different makes of bindings. I also realize that the factory jig makes it a LOT easier, and that doing it at home would take a lot more patience and care.

So, thanks for the public service announcement. I suppose it was needed to counter act my posts. Does what you wrote above mean that I gave you adequate answers to make you think that I actually have a clue?? ;)

As far as the tuning goes; I'll take your advice into consideration. I already have some sort of stone, but I don't think it has any diamonds in it... Though I still contend that one must actually have some sort of edges first before running a stone over them to debur will make any difference...:lol:

And, no I don't think you're a troll, and banning you has never even crossed my mind....

he's sleeping in my lap right now...totally worth the lack of sleep. I don't know if I could handle two years of this though...our 4yr old started going through the night around 3mo old...and from 9mo on she pretty much sleeps 10-11hrs...we're pretty lucky with that.

Yeah, sounds like you could pull it off if you took your time, did some research before hand and made sure to get the correct drill bit.

It helps to have some sort of edge first, but the burrs really make an edge lose its grip, a diamond stone knocks off the high spots so you've got a smoother surface with more consistent hold. Like I said to Carrie, a diamond stone is really the best way to go, the recesses in the face allow it to knock down the burrs while the grit polishes the edge but isn't aggressive enough to remove edge material like a file does. Files should only be used to set the edge angles...those mini edge tools with the panzer file in them are waaay to aggro for basic maintenance.

good natured sarcasm on the banning part ;-) i'm no troll but I do like a little banter to keep the brain working...sorta like deburring your noodle :-D
 

snoseek

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+1 on the diamond stone. I actually only sharpen my edges every 40 or so days but damn near always make a few swipes with the diamond stone (every time out). Just like honing a knife
 

Edd

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Paid $50 in Portsmouth, NH today to remove bindings from one set and mount them on another.
 

bvibert

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do yourself a favor man and get a medium grit diamond stone and take 5 minutes every couple of weeks and deburr your edges...it'll make a HUGE difference in how your skis hold on hard snow. SEV, BUY HIM A DIAMOND STONE FOR HIS CHRISTMAS STOCKING (and make him deburr your edges too!) You'll thank me later.

Ok, I caved and bought a diamond stone over the weekend, thanks for you help skidmarks! Now I just need to actually use it. ;) I also bought a new block of wax to use on my skis. :-o
 
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