Drivetrain replacement?

Marc · Mar 23, 2006

I've talked with people, both road and mountain, who replace some or all of their drivetrain on a yearly basis (drivetrain including chain, cassette and chainrings).

How often do you?

It depends on how much riding I do, but I'm replacing my road chain this year, but keeping my cassette and chain rings. I'm changing the chainrings on my mountain bike but that's only because they're bent and have some missing teeth.

In general, if it's clean and shifting properly I don't bother replacing anything. This seems like a reasonable way to go, but I know of people who replace parts regardless. Of course, often times those are people who have their bikes serviced as opposed to servicing it themselves, as I do.

skibum1321 · Mar 23, 2006

I only replace parts when they need to be replaced. I don't want to spend more money on my bike than I need to just to stay ahead of the game.

Marc · Mar 23, 2006

Yeah, apparently the theory is when you chain streches, your chainrings and cassette cogs wear into the streched chain and therefore won't shift properly when you put a new chain on. I've never really had that problem. I do as you, I replace something when it breaks or no longer works right.

djspookman · Mar 23, 2006

I replace my entire drivetrain every 3-5 years depending on usage. By then its either ready to break/stretch, or it already has!

dave

marcski · Mar 23, 2006

Chain yearly. I'm also going to get a full tune at the LBS. Have it taken apart, cleaned, lubed and put back together. The chain gets so dirty, rusted and I don't lube it as often as i should.

Charlie Schuessler · Mar 23, 2006

The last few years I've been replacing the chain on both bikes in the spring. Depending on use, I try to clean each bicycle weekly or more if needed. The MTB needs it more often when the trails are really muddy or really dusty. With the "Quick-Link" it's easy to take the chains off the bike and clean it throughly as well the rear wheel and cassette. With the chain & rear wheel off, cleaning the chain stays, both derailures and crank assembly are a snap.

nek_crumudgeon · Mar 23, 2006

Having worked in a labor-only bike shop for a significant number of years, and maintaining 5 bikes of my own, drivetrains are tricky.

It's a fact that the chain stretches and as it does so, it elongates the cogs in the back at a greater rate than those in the front. Primarily this is caused by the cogs and chainrings being made of a softer material than the chain itself. Add some grit and grime, and you basically have a chain that works like metal sandpaper.

Usually, you don't have to replace the front rings more than once every couple of years (unless you just ride in one ring). Typically, if you replace your chain every 1000 miles/100 hours, you can avoid the whole chain stretch/cog wear issue. A sufficent chain costs $14 vs. $150+ for the chain, cogs and one or two of the front rings.

Marc · Mar 23, 2006

I need to stop hitting rocks with my chainrings.

That really shortens their life.

skibum1321 · Mar 23, 2006

I have a bash guard on my hardtail. I'm still trying to decide whether to put one on my new bike when I get it.

Marc · Mar 23, 2006

I should probably invest in one.

I believe Race Face makes one for my crank too, which is amazing that they would. I'm sure they lose money on the deal from people like me would buy more expensive replacement chainrings.

marcski · Mar 27, 2006

I'm thinking of getting a bash guard. The more I ride...the more aggressive I get...I'm barely using the 3rd ring up front. And, I think a guard will help getting over some obstacles.

skibum1321 · Mar 27, 2006

I have definitely saved my chainring by having a bash guard. I used to ride at Camp Johnson a lot, which has a ton of log hops. I've definitely hit the bash guard pretty hard on some of them. It adds a little weight, but I don't care that much.

Marc · Mar 27, 2006

Yeah, I hit a lot of logs too.

But I'm far more concerned about the rocks.

Drivetrain replacement?

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