Im going skiing tomorrow at Loon. I have waxed my ski's once before with this Swix F4 universal wax. Basically i pasted it on, let it stand for 5min. Then rubbed it in forwards and backwards till it was smooth. ANYWAYS,,, whats the best method with this type of wax? Should I just let a ski shop do it with the iron on stuff?
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Please give waxing tips
- Thread starter Trigger
- Start date
Cannonball
New member
look down about 6 threads on this page.....
RootDKJ
New member
For no brainer waxing I use this stuff: http://stuntwax.com/ don't even need to scrape.
drjeff
Well-known member
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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What Wa-loaf said! Just ordered 3 more bars for my families quiver
RootDKJ
New member
Got a link to ordering online?
drjeff
Well-known member
www.stuntwax.com should do it. Then I believe it's under the "products" drop down menu where you can order from. FYI, 1 bar gets me about 12-15 pairs of skis waxed (granted two of the pairs I wax in the familes quiver are 110's and 130's, but the other two are 172's and 156's)
RootDKJ
New member
Seems pricey. How many grams is one bar?
Dr Skimeister
New member
I buy the 1kg bag of Universal Wax pellets. Melt them down, pour into plastic ice cube trays. One cube per ski.
http://tognar.com/swix_wax_waxes_waxing_ski_snowboard.html
http://tognar.com/swix_wax_waxes_waxing_ski_snowboard.html
drjeff
Well-known member
Root, they're atleast 300gm per bar(a good 50% bigger than your standard Swix bar and around 2/3rds to 3/4th the length of your standard Toko bar), and the wax really does last a long time! You easily get 3 full open to close days out of each waxing. I now regularly end up tuning/waxing my skis more for edge reasons than wax reasons since I started using stuntwax maybe 5 seasons ago.
RootDKJ
New member
For a Fluro wax, that's not bad.
Cannonball
New member
Not gonna get on a soapbox here. Just give these some consideration:
http://www.purlracing.com/
http://www.enviromountain.com/Dangers/Dangers.htm
http://www.racewax.com/c=iPDkdKQWMT3NChFXrRq18cJ42/category/ski-and-snowboard-wax.90-soy-ski-wax/
Good background/summary article:
http://olympics.fanhouse.com/2010/02/22/ski-racing-destroys-the-environment/
http://www.purlracing.com/
http://www.enviromountain.com/Dangers/Dangers.htm
http://www.racewax.com/c=iPDkdKQWMT3NChFXrRq18cJ42/category/ski-and-snowboard-wax.90-soy-ski-wax/
Good background/summary article:
http://olympics.fanhouse.com/2010/02/22/ski-racing-destroys-the-environment/
Dr Skimeister
New member
Good reads..thanks for sharing
Sky
Active member
I'm following the guidance of SkiMd regarding waxing... www.skimd.com ...no ironing.
Also, using Ray's Way waxinig device. http://www.alpineskituning.com/raysway.waxwhiz.htm
Also, I'm giving Saucerwax a shot...www.saucerwax.net ...not an inspiring web site...but the wax is working for me.
SkiMd's advice....I "crayon" the wax onto the ski then use the wax wizzard.
Ray's Wax Wizzard (however he spells it) uses friction to drive the wax into the ski.
Then I brush (roto brush lately).
Between the tune, the wax and skill-set upgrade (finally) I'm about a tenth of a second from Gold Plus in Night League. I've dropped about 3 seconds.
Using this technique, your wax should last a very long time on the shelf.
Also, using Ray's Way waxinig device. http://www.alpineskituning.com/raysway.waxwhiz.htm
Also, I'm giving Saucerwax a shot...www.saucerwax.net ...not an inspiring web site...but the wax is working for me.
SkiMd's advice....I "crayon" the wax onto the ski then use the wax wizzard.
Ray's Wax Wizzard (however he spells it) uses friction to drive the wax into the ski.
Then I brush (roto brush lately).
Between the tune, the wax and skill-set upgrade (finally) I'm about a tenth of a second from Gold Plus in Night League. I've dropped about 3 seconds.
Using this technique, your wax should last a very long time on the shelf.
RootDKJ
New member
Left hand wax on, right hand wax off.
〽❄❅
Member
Sorry if i'm redundant, i don't have the patience to read through the thread, however i'm old-school and only do hot wax. I find it easy to do, it helps prevent oxidation and it works.
1), choose a wax for expected conditions or go with a universal wax if you don't know what to expect.
2), melt the wax pressing it on a simple non-steam iron, allowing for it to drip in a zig-zag pattern along length of the ski.
3), iron the zig-zag so it spreads out covering the entire base.
4) scrape the base top to bottom in one direction with a metal scraper to remove the wax down to a very thin layer.
5), polish with a cork and you're done, time to ski
I use a rub on paste glide wax for my wax-less x-c skis.
1), choose a wax for expected conditions or go with a universal wax if you don't know what to expect.
2), melt the wax pressing it on a simple non-steam iron, allowing for it to drip in a zig-zag pattern along length of the ski.
3), iron the zig-zag so it spreads out covering the entire base.
4) scrape the base top to bottom in one direction with a metal scraper to remove the wax down to a very thin layer.
5), polish with a cork and you're done, time to ski
I use a rub on paste glide wax for my wax-less x-c skis.
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