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Zermatt this Winter

Hawk

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We are thinking of going to Zermatt this winter. I know a few of you guys have gone. Looking for some intel on where to stay and any do's or don'ts. Our only qualification is to not have a long walk in ski boot to the lift. 5 minute walk is fine but not 10 to 15 minutes.
 

skiberg1

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I just went last year, and I've been twice and I am not a fan. Total PIA to get to lifts. You absolutely will be walking for min 10 mins in Zermatt unless you stay at the few hotels right next to lift, but those are not in center of town and then you have to walk into the town. We took a cab every day to lifts. Walked once, its a long walk. We stayed at Unique Post right in center of town. Great hotel, but crazy partying. Live music every night, really good quality bands and the bars in the hotel close at 4:00 am, so the lobby is always crazy with drunken people everywhere.

Its in a dry belt so snow can be iffy. When they get it, they get pounded, but they can literally go 6 weeks without any measurable snow. Which can cause snow to deteriorate considerably and make off piste not much fun, or even flat out awful. When snow is right, off piste is good, but still better off piste options in Europe. As usual, if its cloudy its very difficult to ski as there are no trees. If you get vertigo easily keep that in mind. On piste is not great and actually quite limited for a resort so large. The transfer over to Italy is frequently closed. Was not open the entire 8 days we were there this last time. First time it was picture perfect blue skies, no wind and good snow.

The lifts are very efficient. They literally have a detachable tram that spins like a detachable quad with each tram holding at least 100 people.

On mountain restaurants are the best in the world. Partying is tremendous. You can literally bar-hop on skis.

Town is very nice and very expensive. Great restaurants and I mean great. Several Michelin Starred places.

Personally I think its a bit overrated. I don't plan to ever go back, so much so that after my trip last year I said its my least favorite resort in Europe and I've been to about 40 in Europe.

With that being said, many people love it and if you get good snow and bluebird skies it can be excellent. If that is the case you absolutely should hire guides and go off piste.

Hope that helps.
 

thetrailboss

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I just went last year, and I've been twice and I am not a fan. Total PIA to get to lifts. You absolutely will be walking for min 10 mins in Zermatt unless you stay at the few hotels right next to lift, but those are not in center of town and then you have to walk into the town. We took a cab every day to lifts. Walked once, its a long walk. We stayed at Unique Post right in center of town. Great hotel, but crazy partying. Live music every night, really good quality bands and the bars in the hotel close at 4:00 am, so the lobby is always crazy with drunken people everywhere.

Its in a dry belt so snow can be iffy. When they get it, they get pounded, but they can literally go 6 weeks without any measurable snow. Which can cause snow to deteriorate considerably and make off piste not much fun, or even flat out awful. When snow is right, off piste is good, but still better off piste options in Europe. As usual, if its cloudy its very difficult to ski as there are no trees. If you get vertigo easily keep that in mind. On piste is not great and actually quite limited for a resort so large. The transfer over to Italy is frequently closed. Was not open the entire 8 days we were there this last time. First time it was picture perfect blue skies, no wind and good snow.

The lifts are very efficient. They literally have a detachable tram that spins like a detachable quad with each tram holding at least 100 people.

On mountain restaurants are the best in the world. Partying is tremendous. You can literally bar-hop on skis.

Town is very nice and very expensive. Great restaurants and I mean great. Several Michelin Starred places.

Personally I think its a bit overrated. I don't plan to ever go back, so much so that after my trip last year I said its my least favorite resort in Europe and I've been to about 40 in Europe.

With that being said, many people love it and if you get good snow and bluebird skies it can be excellent. If that is the case you absolutely should hire guides and go off piste.

Hope that helps.

Yeah, a lot of these observations are true.
 

jimk

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So what are your top 4 or 5 in Europe that you've been to?

:popcorn:
Yes, I'd like to hear more Europe impressions too. Nice/informative first post skiberg1 !

By the way, I went to Zermatt in summer for non-ski visit in 1983. Looking at Matterhorn from town is still probably the most memorable mountain view I've seen in my life. Blots out a third of the sky!
 

thetrailboss

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:popcorn:
Yes, I'd like to hear more Europe impressions too. Nice/informative first post skiberg1 !

By the way, I went to Zermatt in summer for non-ski visit in 1983. Looking at Matterhorn from town is still probably the most memorable mountain view I've seen in my life. Blots out a third of the sky!

The Matterhorn and the incredible setting is the major selling-point for Zermatt. In my two visits, this has what has really stood out. The snow has been decent, but not stellar.

We had planned a trip to Chamonix for earlier this year, but had to cancel because of work stuff. I am interested to know what others who have been there have thought.
 

Bosco DaSkia

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Every one of these ski areas are better than Zermatt. More snow, less people and cheaper.



Laax, 6200 foot vertical....

4fc7f4b93a4eaf64_85fa3e99e3369b38@2x.jpg


https://www.flimslaax.com/en





Aletsch Arena, 3360 feet vertical....

b7a8e7430b5a6567_77be9bb253c2eaac@2x.jpg


https://www.aletscharena.ch/sports-winter/ski-and-snowboard/





Andermatt/Sedrun/Disentis, 4977 feet vertical....

5bf78d0046a5e228_1f480648c8cf926c@2x.jpg


https://www.skiarena.ch/en





Engelberg, 6561 feet vertical....

851004a25312643b_e5d821c627506fd9@2x.jpg


https://www.engelberg.ch/en/





Arosa Lenzerheide, 5331 feet vertical....

1d33dc4833456fe1_90286ca113851eff@2x.jpg


https://arosalenzerheide.swiss/en/Winter/Skiing-Snowboarding/Winter-sports-area








and that's just some of the big ones. look at any of them on goggle maps, then pull back a little and check out how many other ski areas are right near by. most of them you will never have heard of, but most are worth checking out.
 

crank

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The Matterhorn and the incredible setting is the major selling-point for Zermatt. In my two visits, this has what has really stood out. The snow has been decent, but not stellar.

We had planned a trip to Chamonix for earlier this year, but had to cancel because of work stuff. I am interested to know what others who have been there have thought.

We loved the town. Chamonix is not one of those places where you walk out to the lifts and can access hundreds of pistes and access other ski areas. There are, I think, 4 nearby areas; sort of like Aspen that way. Grands Montets is the biggest and most popular and has some great skiing. However it's a crowded 20 minute bus ride away. Good free bus system but can be crowded. A couple of times we had to wait for the next bus to come along because there was just no room to squeeze in. Also going home at days end there can be a line where you will have to wait for a few busses and then endure a crowded ride.

There is an amazing amount of backcountry skiing and if/when we go back we will do more guided touring. Taking the Agui du Midi cable car from town up to the top of Mont Blanc and skiing down should be on every skiers bucket list. One run is about 11K vertical feet! Although a lot of that is just cruising straight down the middle of Vallee Blanche it is still super cool. Depending on your guide and your group's skill level you can do anything from upper intermediate skiing to really scary shit off the top. Another great day was taking a bus through Mont Blanc Tunnel and skiing Courmayeur on the Italian side.

Lots of bars, shops, restaurants, great apres, live music...like a lot of French resorts there are a lot of Brits and most local seem to speak enough english. Part of Cham's charm is that it is not a town that was built around ski resorts. It is a town where they put in some ski resorts. It is a mountaineering capitol for sure. You will see lots of climbers, paragliders and may even catch a glimpse of one of those crazy squirrel suit guys flying around.

Fairly easy to get to, about an hour and a half bus ride from Geneva's airport. We rented a little studio apartment right at the edge of the pedestrian part of town and loved being able to walk out for fresh croissants or a baguette, salami and cheese.
 

skifree

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We loved the town. Chamonix is not one of those places where you walk out to the lifts and can access hundreds of pistes and access other ski areas. There are, I think, 4 nearby areas; sort of like Aspen that way. Grands Montets is the biggest and most popular and has some great skiing. However it's a crowded 20 minute bus ride away. Good free bus system but can be crowded. A couple of times we had to wait for the next bus to come along because there was just no room to squeeze in. Also going home at days end there can be a line where you will have to wait for a few busses and then endure a crowded ride.

There is an amazing amount of backcountry skiing and if/when we go back we will do more guided touring. Taking the Agui du Midi cable car from town up to the top of Mont Blanc and skiing down should be on every skiers bucket list. One run is about 11K vertical feet! Although a lot of that is just cruising straight down the middle of Vallee Blanche it is still super cool. Depending on your guide and your group's skill level you can do anything from upper intermediate skiing to really scary shit off the top. Another great day was taking a bus through Mont Blanc Tunnel and skiing Courmayeur on the Italian side.

Lots of bars, shops, restaurants, great apres, live music...like a lot of French resorts there are a lot of Brits and most local seem to speak enough english. Part of Cham's charm is that it is not a town that was built around ski resorts. It is a town where they put in some ski resorts. It is a mountaineering capitol for sure. You will see lots of climbers, paragliders and may even catch a glimpse of one of those crazy squirrel suit guys flying around.

Fairly easy to get to, about an hour and a half bus ride from Geneva's airport. We rented a little studio apartment right at the edge of the pedestrian part of town and loved being able to walk out for fresh croissants or a baguette, salami and cheese.

thank you!!!!

sold
 

skiberg1

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My Favorites include the following. Keep in mind they are dependent upon a lot of things, but primarily snow quality and terrain. I also tend to prefer smaller and more authentic resorts that attract a more local or regional crowd of skiers.

1. Tigne/Val Disere- I think this place is the best ski area in the world and its not even close.
2. Engleberg- The lift accessed off piste simply is beyond rational believability.
3. Pila- Small, fun, really good terrain.
4. St Gerviais - Back side of Megeve, lots of good terrain and stunning views of Mt Blanc.
5. Khutai- first place I skied with my boys in Europe. Powder day. Will always hold a special place.
 

Hawk

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After reading all of this it has actually made my decision even harder. Hearing that Zermatt can have low snow snowfall and questionable conditions makes me Leary. I have been skunked way to many times. Andermatt and Laax sound pretty interesting. I will do more investigation.
 

Hawk

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thank you!!!!

sold
I've been to Cham twice and without a doubt it is one of the most awesome experiences I have ever had. There is an electricity to that town I have not felt elsewhere. The only down side is the Grand Montet cable car burnt down. I love that lift and it served some of the best terrain. Not the end of the world. If you go, get a guide for the day, do the aiguille du midi cable car and ask to do the grand Envers route.
There are so many food and lodging options I can't begin to tell you. Just make sure to get lodging in the center of town some where and close to a bus stop or train station. Check the map before booking. They will sometime say, "close to town" and that could be as much as a 15 to 20 minute walk to the bus or train to get to the mountain. I have no complaints about Chamonix, I just want to explore elsewhere this year.
 

Hawk

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What type of place are you looking for and what matters most?

Here's my criteria:
- We are going with 4 to maybe 6 people.
- We are all expert skiers, want to ski steeper terrain and have some adventure.
- Planning on hiring a quide for at least one or two days.
- We may not bring skins and back country gear. Don't have room for two full setups. but will do moderate hikes.
- We would rather not ski crowded areas or glitzy resorts, just as long as there are good options to have dinner and apre ski.
- lodging can be a chalet or hotel. We are flexible as long as it is comfortable.
 

skiberg1

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Sounds like we have similar taste. Look into Engleberg. You can stay in Lucerne which is a really nice city and then drive, or take the train, less than 45 mins away. You can stay at town near base, but its a bit quiet. You can also ski multiple areas in the region by staying in Lucerne. You will definitely have adventure there. Guides are recommended and there is some glacier travel, but also plenty of routes that are non-glaciated and once you learn them I think you could do them without a guide. I am not exaggerating when I say you can ski 7,000 continuous vertical feet of black/double black terrain. No joke. The bad news is that its all above tree line so if its snowing, its impossible to see and when a storm blows in it really, really honks, even if cloudy it can be tough with Vertigo. The reason I mention Lucerne is that you are not then beholden to Engleberg just in case the snow or weather is iffy.

Definitely consider Monterossa IT. A bit more difficult to get to but worth it. Great snow history, plenty of Pow and no lines. Tremendous off piste. Below tree line gladed skiing for the bad vis days. Huge backcountry with minor climbing needed.

Solden AT may work as well. Crazy partying. Good snow and lots of off piste, plus you can ski multiple areas in the region, like Obergurgul and Khutai.
Obertaun in eastern AT. Powder hound ski area, plenty of off piste.
Val D'anniviers/Grimentz- a bit more obscure but plenty good.

Have not skied Andermatt, but its on the list and have heard many, many good things about it. You can take train directly to hill.

Have fun deciding. Last year I just booked my usual non stop Boston to Zurich flight (Swiss) and decided where I was going when I landed. Highly recommended as you can get to about 2/3 of Alps ski areas fairly easily and you will absolutely find the snow this way. No nerves about getting skunked.




Val DiSere/Tignes. tons and tons of off piste.
 

thetrailboss

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Two years ago I rode the Glacier Express past Laax and Andermatt and both looked impressive. I almost went to Engelberg for a day, but decided to check out an unknown local place (Flumserberg) that was very interesting. Honestly there are LOTS of decent sized "local" places that are impressive in their own right but NOT known outside the area.
 
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