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Find me a bike

Marc

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Just for information gathering purposes, when do you need to lockout a shock? On a climb? How easy is it to do so?

Well, the necessity of a lockout will be argued by everyone, and will depend a lot on how efficient your particular suspension design is.

I find them especially helpful on long climbs and long flat, non technical straights and asphalt when you don't need the absorption and you want all your pedaling input energy to translate into drive power rather than going towards compressing the suspension with every pedals stroke.
 

tjf67

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Just for information gathering purposes, when do you need to lockout a shock? On a climb? How easy is it to do so?

I lock the shock out when I am running the road. In particular when I am going up hill on the road.

Climbing in the woods with a FS is actually better when it is steep and bumpy. When you pump hard the rear wheel gets sucked under your ass more giving you more traction for the climb. At least that is whe I experience.
 

MR. evil

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Well, the necessity of a lockout will be argued by everyone, and will depend a lot on how efficient your particular suspension design is.

I find them especially helpful on long climbs and long flat, non technical straights and asphalt when you don't need the absorption and you want all your pedaling input energy to translate into drive power rather than going towards compressing the suspension with every pedals stroke.


I prefer a rear shock with pedal platform (SPV or ProPedal) over a lockout. I think lockouts are useless. I also prefer good old high single pivot rear suspensions due to the simple nature and I love the way the rear end digs in when climbing. If I had all the cash in the world I would be ruding a tricked out Santa Cruz Heckler. But I also wouldn't say no to a Giant Reighn with the Maestro suspension design
 

Marc

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I lock the shock out when I am running the road. In particular when I am going up hill on the road.

Climbing in the woods with a FS is actually better when it is steep and bumpy. When you pump hard the rear wheel gets sucked under your ass more giving you more traction for the climb. At least that is whe I experience.

Losing or gaining traction with pedal input depends on the suspension design. It can go either way depending on the geometry, as Tim touches on below-

I prefer a rear shock with pedal platform (SPV or ProPedal) over a lockout. I think lockouts are useless. I also prefer good old high single pivot rear suspensions due to the simple nature and I love the way the rear end digs in when climbing. If I had all the cash in the world I would be ruding a tricked out Santa Cruz Heckler. But I also wouldn't say no to a Giant Reighn with the Maestro suspension design

The Heckler is on the short list of potential new frames for me. Downside is I'd probably need a longer travel heavier fork. Also, I can tell you from several years of riding up Killington on the gravel work roads, lockout is particularly not useless to me.

If I had all the money in the world, I'd be on an Ellsworth Epiphany (maybe a Moment) or an Ibis Mojo.
 

eatskisleep

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Santa Crux Bullit... That's my recommendation, but it is most likely out of your price range. I know people who use them on climbs as well as people who use them for downhill. As mentioned by someone else, I too would rather have something with pro-pedal or spv or just a good suspension over lock-out (but of course that fits my riding style).
 

Marc

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Also, high pivot designs, while they do aid in traction on a climb, also tend to have the opposite than desired effect when pedaling over bumps, as the force the rider exerts on the frame is opposing the force exterted by the bump. I've heard this called "lockout" or "dead travel" while pedaling.
 

MR. evil

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all mountain xammy is your bike - very close to price point

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/bikes/08_bikes/08dakarxam1.html

i have an '07 and it climbs great, '08 should be even better with the dhx 4.0 propedal

also check out a giant trance

That bike has a little too much travel IMO to be a good climbing bike. 130mm (5") is the most I would go if you want a bike that will climb good and that bike has 150mm. But this is also a subjective thing. My bike has 130mm in the front and rear and on steep technical climbs I have to really work to keep the front end from wandering. The bigger issues with that bike is the suspension package. There have been alot of complaints online this year about Marzzochi forks, and the Fox DHX air shocks have also been getting a bad rap. I know someone that has blown several DHX5 Air (better than the DHX4) this year alone. But at your weight Austin I doubt you would blow out the rear.But the Maazzochi fork concearns me. The bike is also $700 over your budget
 
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radio-flyer-classic-red-tricycle.jpg

haha
 

gorgonzola

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you may want to check your setup on your fork if you have adj rebound and/or compression. can't really speak about the marz forks but i've heard about the problems with the dhx shock - i'm running the dhx3 and know others as well and haven't heard about any problems first hand, my arse is about 210# these days hitting 2' max drops. btw 5 doesn't mean "better" , same basic shock with more features - 3 is stripped, 4 has propedal, 5 has propedal and lockout
 

Crankfire

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How tall are you? I just happen have a couple bikes for sale ;)

1) 2005 Large Santa Cruz Heckler: http://www.crankfire.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6982
Looking to get $700ish. If it fits you, this bike fits the riding style you are looking for. Pedals very nice and is a great ride.

2) 2006 Medium Santa Cruz VPFree: I don't have it posted up for sale yet, but it is a bad ass bike. Pedals amazing for what it is, though at the same time, it's a bit hefty and made to jump off things, not climb up things as much - but it gets you there. I rode all last year on it, its a very fun bike. Asking $1500, I can get pics and info up if interested.

That's it really. Good luck!
 

bvibert

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eatskisleep

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Last time I saw a VP Free I noticed it ran large... Medium was big IMO so maybe that is even something to look into although if you really want to get into climbing that wouldn't be the bike.
 

Crankfire

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I'm 6'1" with long legs. How much does that bike weigh? Also what is the travel, 5 inches?
Yup 5 inches in the back, and the fork is 5 inches. It is nicely balanced :)

Not sure on the weight, I would guess around 30 pounds though. I will try to find a scale and see what it really is.

Sizewise: I am also 6 foot and a smidge with proportionately lengthed legs, it fit me great. It also has a pretty long stem (120mm) on it right now that I threw on there for a "taller than I" someone else that was going to buy it, but I preferred a much shorter stem on it.

Been trying to find the geometry specs for it for you with no luck so far....
 

Marc

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Yup 5 inches in the back, and the fork is 5 inches. It is nicely balanced :)

Not sure on the weight, I would guess around 30 pounds though. I will try to find a scale and see what it really is.

Sizewise: I am also 6 foot and a smidge with proportionately lengthed legs, it fit me great. It also has a pretty long stem (120mm) on it right now that I threw on there for a "taller than I" someone else that was going to buy it, but I preferred a much shorter stem on it.

Been trying to find the geometry specs for it for you with no luck so far....

How much do you weigh? Austin would most likely need a much lighter spring on that rear shock.

Not surprised about the rebound knob breaking off the fork. My friend's Manitou from the same era had the exact same thing happen.

How are the hubs/wheel bearings? Were the bearings ever replaced or at least cleaned and greased? Is the freewheel still working well? Do you still have the big chain ring? Was the main pivot in that year bearing or bushing? How often did you clean and grease the rear shock bushings? How often did you change the fork oil? How do the BB bearings feel? How old is the crankset? (That's an ISIS splined crank yes?) Is there any play in the headset? Do you have extra derailleur hangers? Was the one that's on there ever bent and then bent back?

Would you be willing to part anything out? Austin def. wouldn't need a DH crank. Also are the crank bros. pedals SPD compatible? He wouldn't want those either if they aren't since he has SPD pedals on his rigid bike.
 

Crankfire

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Whoa... 3rd degree!!!! Heh, all fair questions though... so here goes:

How much do you weigh?
215ish :oops:

Not surprised about the rebound knob breaking off the fork. My friend's Manitou from the same era had the exact same thing happen.
I called Manitou because this was apparently common and they sent me whole new rebound internals (which were installed), just no knob.

How are the hubs/wheel bearings? Were the bearings ever replaced or at least cleaned and greased?
Hubs are Hadley's. I don't remember ever having any maintenance done on them.

Is the freewheel still working well?
Yup. Again, Hadleys ;)

Do you still have the big chain ring?
I am sure I can scrounge one up. Though I would really recommend sticking with the bash ring, especially around here and seeing the BB on these Hecklers are not exactly high.

Was the main pivot in that year bearing or bushing?
Bushings. Never had to replace them, kept 'em clean and tight - still solid/no play.

How often did you clean and grease the rear shock bushings?
Did my best to keep 'em clean, tight and running smooth.

How often did you change the fork oil?
This is its second fork actually, so this one only got a little over 1 year of use. And it was "rebuilt" when I had the rebound job done.

How do the BB bearings feel?
Good. Not 100% sure, but I think I completely replaced the BB at one point.

How old is the crankset?
2005. Pretty burly crankset too. Drivetrain is in moderate shape overall, probably can get another full season out of it. No guarentees though!!

Is there any play in the headset?
Nope.

Do you have extra derailleur hangers?
Nope.

Was the one that's on there ever bent and then bent back?
Bent one the last year i rode it and it was replaced with a shiny new one. It is straight as an arrow right now!

Would you be willing to part anything out?
Trying not too, but I will consider offers.

Austin def. wouldn't need a DH crank.
Ok. But they are tough and not too bad in the weight department!?

Also are the crank bros. pedals SPD compatible?
Nope, they are Crank Bros :)

For the 2 years I rode it, overall maintenance was pretty much an early season overhaul from my local bike shop and if anything went wrong/felt weird after that I would fix it or get it fixed. The bike is not perfect, it has been ridden, but overall it is still running strong and has plenty of life left in it. It is rideable "out of the box" so to speak, but I won't lie, it probably could use some upgrades/work. Which is why I am selling it for $700.

Phew!
 

MR. evil

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Whoa... 3rd degree!!!! Heh, all fair questions though... so here goes:

How much do you weigh?
215ish :oops:

Not surprised about the rebound knob breaking off the fork. My friend's Manitou from the same era had the exact same thing happen.
I called Manitou because this was apparently common and they sent me whole new rebound internals (which were installed), just no knob.

How are the hubs/wheel bearings? Were the bearings ever replaced or at least cleaned and greased?
Hubs are Hadley's. I don't remember ever having any maintenance done on them.

Is the freewheel still working well?
Yup. Again, Hadleys ;)

Do you still have the big chain ring?
I am sure I can scrounge one up. Though I would really recommend sticking with the bash ring, especially around here and seeing the BB on these Hecklers are not exactly high.

Was the main pivot in that year bearing or bushing?
Bushings. Never had to replace them, kept 'em clean and tight - still solid/no play.

How often did you clean and grease the rear shock bushings?
Did my best to keep 'em clean, tight and running smooth.

How often did you change the fork oil?
This is its second fork actually, so this one only got a little over 1 year of use. And it was "rebuilt" when I had the rebound job done.

How do the BB bearings feel?
Good. Not 100% sure, but I think I completely replaced the BB at one point.

How old is the crankset?
2005. Pretty burly crankset too. Drivetrain is in moderate shape overall, probably can get another full season out of it. No guarentees though!!

Is there any play in the headset?
Nope.

Do you have extra derailleur hangers?
Nope.

Was the one that's on there ever bent and then bent back?
Bent one the last year i rode it and it was replaced with a shiny new one. It is straight as an arrow right now!

Would you be willing to part anything out?
Trying not too, but I will consider offers.

Austin def. wouldn't need a DH crank.
Ok. But they are tough and not too bad in the weight department!?

Also are the crank bros. pedals SPD compatible?
Nope, they are Crank Bros :)

For the 2 years I rode it, overall maintenance was pretty much an early season overhaul from my local bike shop and if anything went wrong/felt weird after that I would fix it or get it fixed. The bike is not perfect, it has been ridden, but overall it is still running strong and has plenty of life left in it. It is rideable "out of the box" so to speak, but I won't lie, it probably could use some upgrades/work. Which is why I am selling it for $700.

Phew!


What is the eye to eye and stroke on the shock?

Austin,
IMO that is a pretty good deal on a sweet bike. Heckers are pretty much the definition of an all around bike, probably the original AM bike even before there was such a thing.
 
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