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Buying Bindings

gmcunni

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last two pairs of skis i've owned have had integrated bindings. looking at some sales and starting to put together some "packages" but really don't know squat about bindings. just based on my REI membership and current sale i came across these as options for my fictional purchase of Line Prophet 98s

prices are before a 20% discount. other than spending more = better binding (which of course is not always true) any opinions?

in general any bindings considered "bad" these days?
 

thetrailboss

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What really matters: DIN range, weight, and brake width so you don't have to buy brakes to fit your skis or bend them to fit. Look has the whole pivot heel design and you either love it or hate it. Markers are generally pretty good bindings. Unless you're racing or jumping off cliffs, most higher end rec bindings are similar.
 

o3jeff

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I have the Grffons on my Sultan 85 and a version of the PX on my bump skis. I can say that I've personally field tested the release feature on the bump ski many times and it works fine!
 

St. Bear

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From what I understand, when I bought bindings last year with my skis, higher end bindings have more pieces made of metal rather than plastic, which are more durable. I ended up going slightly above middle of the road (I think), with Head Mojo12. The site I bought from bundled them with my skis for $99, including a mounting.
 

Puck it

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One piece of advice from me. Stay away from lower end bindings if you have some weight and a strong skier. The all plastic ones can cause you problems. I know from experience.
 

Hawkshot99

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I have had the Griffons on several pairs of skiis. I am a big guy and have had no problems with any of them. No problems with early release.

Sent from my SGH-S959G using Tapatalk 2
 

gmcunni

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One piece of advice from me. Stay away from lower end bindings if you have some weight and a strong skier. The all plastic ones can cause you problems. I know from experience.

good to know, was thinking plastic = lighter weight but didn't equate it to lower quality.
 

Puck it

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good to know, was thinking plastic = lighter weight but didn't equate it to lower quality.


Not really quality. It is strength. I have broken heel pieces. My son who was 20 last year broke a heel piece on a pair of Peak 12. He weighs 200lbs. not overweight. I upgraded him to 15's with more metal in them.
 

bigbog

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...and don't forget to check what kind of ramp angle it possesses(if an issue), although with a shim strip underneath a shop guy in the know can fix fore/aft balance issue.
$.01
 

timm

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To me the choice of binding is the most overrated equipment decision you make for skis, unless you are an extreme skier spending lots of time in no fall zones you probably are never going to know the difference between one and another.

Pick one that fits your DIN needs, brake width, and budget and call it a day.

Head Mojo/Tyrolia Peak
Salomon STH
Look Pivot/Rossi FKS

All good.
 

billski

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I'm with timm. Binding have come a long way (I'm not including leather and strap type). I've been subject to may novel methods for attaching boot to boards including Spademan (a.k.a., "ankle breakers") and Cubco, BURT and Marker Rotomat.

When all was said and done, the industry finally settled on the toe-heel design and I've been happy ever since. IMO, Joe-ordinary skier really cannot tell the difference from binding to binding. I've never bought entry-level bindings so I never even knew they were putting plastic into the binding's structural or release mechanisms. The only plastic I have on mine is either under the teflon plate or the binding cover. With all the different bindings I have, I'm pretty good at binding ejects, toe and heel. I'll bet with all the liability in such a business, getting it right and getting standardized is A #1 priority.
 
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