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Home improvement

Geoff

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The big unknown in the house was a 10x10 flat roof section that was originally a porch. The house was originally U-shaped with the living room at one end of the U and the master bedroom at the other end of the U. The porch filled the U and made the footprint rectangular. At some point, the porch was enclosed and became the study / 3rd bedroom. They moved what was formerly the load bearing outside wall between the kitchen and the porch 2 1/2 feet into the study. I'm moving that wall another foot into the study and correcting all the sins of post-war hack job home carpentry.

This white 2x4 "beam" is what used to be the outside wall between the kitchen and the porch. The kitchen roof and the uphill side of the flat roof are just dangling there mostly unsupported. It's completely unclear why it never came crashing down in a snow storm.
KitchenBeamE.jpg


In 2001, the previous owner put a 2nd flat roof system on top of the original 10x10 porch roof. With a 4" hole saw this is what's above the part of the kitchen closest to the study wall:
NewFlatRoof.jpg


This is looking from the kitchen to the outside wall of the study:
StudyCloset.jpg


The 2001 10x10 flat roof laid on top of the original flat porch roof is built out of 2x6's running from the living room wall to the master bedroom wall. The old flat roof structure underneath is going to have to come out. Chop-chop with a sawz-all. I plugged the numbers into a civil engineering calculator and determined that I need at least 2x10's to support that span with a 45 pound per square foot snow load and a 10 pound per square foot static load of roofing, framing, insulation, and sheet rock. With things running in that direction, it's also impossible to ventilate that roof. Until the original flat roof is completely removed, it's unclear what's going to happen. Probably put 2x10's next to the 2x6's, spray foam insulation, and call it a day.

Underneath that porch floor was another great unknown. Turns out it's uninsulated, not ventilated at all, and it has live Romex running on the dirt to get power to the master bedroom.

The only other surprises were the expected ones. The flooring under the kitchen sink was all rotted and there's some rot and sheet rock water damage from leaking above the shower basin. The rot will get fixed now but ripping out the shower enclosure to the studs is a next year project. Caulk it and wait until next winter when I'll redo the shower, replace the vanity, and put down new bathroom flooring.
 

MR. evil

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Actually it would be very easy to ventilate that roof. Lay some 1x furring strips on top of your new 2x10's and then install the plywood decking on top of the furring strips. Make sure to use tongue and groove plywood and construction adhesive when laying down the decking.

What kind of roofing are you going to use on the flat roof? Depending on the roofing material you may not even need to ventilate that roof (but with a plywood deck I still would). With a membrane roofing system such as EPDM or Modified Bit its my preference to install rigid insulation board on the outside of the roof structure (on top of the plywood) then fully adhere the roofing membrane to the insulation. Also keep in mind that a flat roof isn't flat, you should have at least a 1/4" per foot pitch to meet most building codes, I would recommend 1/2" per foot.

Did an architect or engineer design those new collar ties you installed? Did you upgrade / reinforce the connections between the existing roof rafters and exterior wall top plate?
 

Geoff

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South Dartmouth, Ma
Actually it would be very easy to ventilate that roof. Lay some 1x furring strips on top of your new 2x10's and then install the plywood decking on top of the furring strips. Make sure to use tongue and groove plywood and construction adhesive when laying down the decking.

What kind of roofing are you going to use on the flat roof? Depending on the roofing material you may not even need to ventilate that roof (but with a plywood deck I still would). With a membrane roofing system such as EPDM or Modified Bit its my preference to install rigid insulation board on the outside of the roof structure (on top of the plywood) then fully adhere the roofing membrane to the insulation. Also keep in mind that a flat roof isn't flat, you should have at least a 1/4" per foot pitch to meet most building codes, I would recommend 1/2" per foot.

Did an architect or engineer design those new collar ties you installed? Did you upgrade / reinforce the connections between the existing roof rafters and exterior wall top plate?

I'm trying not to rip the existing roof off. It's only 9 years old and I don't want the house open to the weather in February. My contractor is cutting the original porch roof out from underneath. Once it's out, we'll see what can be done to beef up those 2x6's. Either an LVL beam to bisect the 10 foot span or sister them with 2x8's or 2x10's. Until the original porch roof is chopped out so all the 2001 work is visible, it's unclear how the flat roof repair is going to go. Worst case, the whole thing comes out.

Yeah, the architect did the structural beam and collar tie plans. I'm not doing the work and this is not a hack home project.
 

Geoff

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My contractor buddy emailed me this at 10:00 this morning. He's chopping out the 10x10 flat roof underpinnings today intending to leave the 2x6's and newest layer of roof that were installed in 2001. That is the last of the demolition. Hopefully, he won't find anything too costly. When everything got pulled apart, the electrical went up from the original estimate. Other than the bedrooms, the whole house is getting rewired and I'm on the hook for hard wired smoke/CO detectors.

FlatRoof1.jpg
 

Geoff

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Here is the living room / kitchen area after the LVL beam system was installed:

LRBeam.jpg


LRBeam2.jpg


Next is new collar ties to vault the kitchen ceiling and a triple LVL beam perpendicular to that one.
 

billski

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That's not home improvement, it's "home rescue". Boy, you sure are rescuing it from years of Yankee ingenuity. You're absolutely right, it's a wonder how some of the house portions remained standing, and didn't burn down. I like the mouse nest.
You are a braver man than I!!!!
 

Geoff

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Here's the 10x10 flat roof problem part of the house. Flooring was ripped out. Floor joists have to come out. There's some rot. There was no heat in what will be my study.
UnderStudy1.jpg


A chunk of the sill was rotted so that got replaced.
Rot.jpg


They found my garage wiring, too.
GarageWiring.jpg


While the floor is all opened up, the HVAC guy is coming in to look at the forced hot air ducting and returns. I at least need one new duct run into the study since that 10x10 area was uninsulated and unheated.
 

Geoff

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Did I mention that the HVAC guy told me that all the forced hot air duct work is shot and needs to be replaced? I thought about it for a day and opted for forced hot water baseboard. I'll have the plumber run the loop now while things are all torn apart and buy a boiler in the fall.
 

MR. evil

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Did I mention that the HVAC guy told me that all the forced hot air duct work is shot and needs to be replaced? I thought about it for a day and opted for forced hot water baseboard. I'll have the plumber run the loop now while things are all torn apart and buy a boiler in the fall.

Do you have a basement? If so I would think about radient floor heating.
 

Geoff

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Do you have a basement? If so I would think about radient floor heating.

Nope. Crawl space. It's a cottage.

I have no interest in radiant floor heating other than in the bathroom. That's already what I'm thinking when I get to a bathroom remodel. The attic will have R-30 in a couple of weeks after I get wiring, plumbing, and framing inspected. The windows & doors are 5 year old good quality Pella. The crawl space is well insulated. It's on the south coast of Mass near the ocean where the winters are pretty mild. It's only 980 square feet. I'm not going to have issues heating the thing. Besides, I'm probably going to shut it down much of the time in the winter.
 

Geoff

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The former 10x10 porch area now has concrete poured where it used to be dirt crawl space. Turns out the wiring out to the garage is actually rated for in-ground use so I don't have to do anything dramatic. The floor joists are replaced. The flat roof joists are mostly installed. Still have to build the 2x4 wall between the kitchen and study and rough in the electrical there. I should have my framing and electrical inspection next week.
concrete.jpg


The old forced hot air furnace is sitting in the garage and all the duct work has been removed from the crawl space. The heat guys were in on Tuesday and I now have two baseboard loops. One goes through the two bedrooms and my office and can be shut down in the winter when I'm in Vermont. The other goes through the bathroom, kitchen, living room, and the big closet where I have my washer/dryer. The plumbing was inspected yesterday. All the cast iron in the house is gone. PVC stack and drains. The copper got ripped out and I have oversized Pex with insulation around it that won't fail with a freeze up. The shower should have way more water pressure.
furnace.jpg


Now that the forced hot air furnace is out of the utility room, that is going to get cleaned up with floor joists, a subfloor, and a trap door down to the crawl space with access to the sump pump. With a much smaller forced hot water boiler, I pick up a lot of spare closet space.
utilityroom.jpg
 

Geoff

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Wicked good work, but I am puzzled. How are you getting skiing in, with all that work going on? Shouldn't you save this work until after ski season? ;)

I'm writing checks from 220 miles away. My best friend is doing the general contracting and carpentry work. I had no intention of trying to live in a house where I telecommute and do the work myself. I get to the house every 3 weeks or so when I have a business trip. I often fly out of Logan so I'm only an hour away.
 

Geoff

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The framing and electrical are now done. I should have those inspections done in the next few days. The insulation crew is scheduled for Tuesday and Wednesday. Sheet rock, skim coat, and paint after that.

This is taken standing in the living room looking at the new wall between the kitchen and the study.
StudyWall.jpg
 
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I'm writing checks from 220 miles away. My best friend is doing the general contracting and carpentry work. I had no intention of trying to live in a house where I telecommute and do the work myself. I get to the house every 3 weeks or so when I have a business trip. I often fly out of Logan so I'm only an hour away.

i thought u had a house in portsmith? did u post pics of ur house a few years back? u moved?
 
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