Heading to Maine (BSP & Moosehead) , in need of some inf

[luv 2 hike]

Hi! This is my first time posting here. Nice to meet all of you! Before I get into my questions, here is a little information about me......

I've been hiking for about 10 years, but started hiking more challenging trails within the past five years. I've done a lot of hiking in the Great Smoky Mountains (about 200 miles total), and have hiked quite a few of the difficult hikes in the park. My longest one day hike was 20 miles. I've hiked a little bit in New England - a couple of trails near Stowe, VT (Smuggler's Notch area) . I'm in decent shape, but I haven't been regularly working out recently and I definitely need to lose 10 pounds and start doing some cardio workouts before heading to Maine.

This is my first hiking trip to Maine, and I'm really looking forward to it. I'll be going the first week in October - I know that's an "iffy" time to go weather-wise, but it's the soonest I can make it there. I'm hoping to see some nice fall foliage and hike Katahdin. I'll be staying in Millinocket for four nights and then in Greenville near Moosehead Lake for three nights. I'll be disappointed if we can't hike Katahdin for whatever reason, but I know that the scenery alone will be well worth the trip.

I just ordered three hiking books from Amazon - 50 Hikes in the Maine Mountians, Maine Mountain Guide, and Katahdin: A Guide to Baxter Park & Katahdin.

Now onto my questions.......

What are my chances of being able to hike Katahdin the first week in October? Will I have to cross the knife edge to get to the summit of Katahdin (I'm not so sure that I want to do the knife edge, it looks a litle scary)

Any recommendations for hikes to the summit of Katahdin? What about other hikes in the area, anything that is a must? I'm guessing that I should pack wool sweaters and lots of warm clothing. Is a down jacket overkill?

Also, if anyone has any recommendations for hikes in the Moosehead Lake area, please tell me.

Thanks so much!
luv 2 hike

 

[MtnMagic]

I've never hiked BSP or Katahdin. Hold on a few minutes and those that know will chime in.
_________________
Welcome to the boards!

 

[Charlie Schuessler]

Katahdin, ahhhhhhh....we enjoyed that slice of heaven on our honeymoon in June a number of years ago. Just hearing, reading or thinking Baxter State Park or Katahdin brings a smile to my face.

There are many other hikes in the park that are bit less adventurous than the Knife's Edge. Great Pond Trails with special encounters with wildlife that can be exciting.

There are others who visit that particular paradise regularly and can offer the specifics you wish. Just couldn’t contain my enthusiasm.

Have fun in October!

 

[Schuyler]

HI!

Here's the web site for starters:

http://www.baxterstateparkauthority.com/index.html

There are five peaks to Mt Katahdin. Baxter is the big one, and also the end of the AT. You can get to Baxter peak without going over the Knife edge via a few trails. From the south, starting at either Katahdin Stream or Abol campground which would both be closer to Moosehead Lake than other starting points.

From my own experience I can tell you that, yes, the Knife edge is a little scary - leave any fear of heights behind. I've seen people practically waltz across it... I admit I crawled some of the way though. This was partially from fatigue due to the mice that kept me up all night!

I'd suggest pouring over your maps and new guide books, and I'm sure others will have suggestions for you here.
You are in for a treat if the weather works out for you!

Sky

 

[MichaelJ]

I haven't actually hiked Katahdin yet, but did help plan a trip there that got cancelled less than 12 hours before it was supposed to begin (and I was already in Millinocket).

So to answer some of your questions...

There are plenty of options to get to the top of Baxter Peak (the summit commonly known as Katahdin, and the northern terminus of the AT) without traversing the Knife Edge. The most common is to follow the AT itself (the Hunt Trail). Others are the Saddle Trail or the Cathedral Trail. When your books come in just look at the maps and you'll be fine.

The only thing that will keep you off the summit is the weather. Baxter State Park is highly controlled and if the weather (generally wind) is bad enough, they will declare a red day and ascent above treeline will not be permitted. The odds of that are pretty low. However, I would expect cold nights and possibly even snow or ice at the higher elevations. A down jacket is definitely not overkill. I would bring long underwear, wool cap, windblock balaclava ... in fact, since you're staying in the area and day hiking, load up the car with a full variety of clothes.

Other hikes? There are a ton right there in Baxter State Park - peaks such as Hamlin, the Brothers, Fort, Doubletop and Coe. Throughout the park are miles of trails to just walk along; no summits, just beautiful woods.

That's all I've got off the top of my head - others will definitely chime in!
8)

 

[MichaelJ]

PS - Greenville is also along the AT, and includes a great stretch by Gulf Hagas, White Cap, Saddleback and Elephant (all names I recognize from the New England Hundred Highest list). It's too bad you're going in October; you'll be close to the Dead River and some of the finest whitewater in the area (same with Millinocket and the Penobscot River)!

 

[MtnMagic]

I second Gulf Hagas. Milo to Brownsville.

Another day in Paradise.

Hey another idea for a group adventure!!!

 

[luv 2 hike]

Thanks for the responses, I appreciate it!

 

[MtnMagic]

Wouldn't a group camp/hike from us members of Alpine Zone to hike the loop of Gulf Hagas and see the Falls be the grand finale of October during the colorful season?

What a wonderful time, what do you think?!

 

[MichaelJ]

October 'tis the season of "yet another wedding to attend". But feel free to go without me!!!

 

[MtnMagic]

You are welcome. Enjoy!

And yet when I think about it, the Spring is even better. The melt-off and the winter of less than many hikes begs for this one to be visited. What a ford across the river or to go upstream and eliminate it!

 

[David Metsky]

Here is a trip report of a multi-day trip to Baxter. link

The shortest way to summit Baxter peak is up the Hunt or Abol Slide trails. Together they make a nice loop and avoid the Knife Edge, which is probably a good idea in iffy weather. I really enjoy the Knife Edge, so loops from Chimney Pond or Roaring Brook are my favorites. Since you'll be dayhiking you should know both options and see what is available when you reach the gate. Dayhikers have to queue up at the gate in the morning and are only allowed into the parking areas if there is room. On busy weekends this can be a major hassle, as things fill up very early. In Oct, especially mid-week, it shouldn't be much of an issue unless you are close to Columbus Day.

Other hikes inside the park include the Brothers and Coe, Doubletop, and Mt OJI.

-dave-

 

[Mike P.]

I was there last Friday. Check with BSP Park for status of Tote Road which would get you access to North Brother, the other 4,000 foot peak in the park beside Katahdin's Baxter & Hamlin Peak. It was closed Friday apparently as a result of washout or mudslide. It was closed just north of Fosters Field which still allows access to ABol & Hunt Trails along with those from Chimney Pond which is off another road entirely.

From Roaring Brook/Chimney Pond the trail that is less steep is the saddle trail. Bypassing Baxter peak for Hamlin up Hamlin Ridge may be the least steep way up to the top of the peaks & allows you views into another basin & views of Knife's Edge that are great. going up Hamlin you could still do Baxter Peak & descend the Saddle. It's a full day & sunlight is less plentiful in Oct.

Other worthwhile peaks include the Owl, Doubletop, OJI, (all accessable below where the road was closed on 08/13.) North Brother, South Brother & Coe done as a loop is another popular trip. South Turner from Roaring Brook offers great views into the Great Basin that Chimney Pond is in along with a short side trip to Sandy Stream Pond, one of the best places to see moose.

Friday, 08/13 I saw , Draper, Kidney, Celia & Jackson Ponds but came away without seeing any moose

 

[Mike P.]

From what was poseted on Views From the top www.viewsfromthetop.com in the ME trail section, appears it was just flooded & by Saturday AM they had re-opened the road. The trail to Chimney Pond though was closed, I'm guessing due to high water. Call the BSP info number for the offical status just before you go. AM 1610 In Millinocket area only has general rules & regulations & park HQ is near the McDonalds in Millinocket.

 

[bigbog]

DeLorme's Maine Atlas & Gazateer

luv2hike,
DeLorme's Maine Atlas can be a big aid for getting the big and/or detailed picture..... There's a lot of territory in the state with many vistas and a lot of DeeP woods...still.

 

[twigeater]

Allow plenty of time for a Katahdin dayhike (8-10 hours) plus there are cut off times - times that you should be on the trail by...the rangers don't have to let you go if you miss the cut off.

My last BSP trip each year is Columbus Day weekend. October can be cold - once my boots froze, but last year it was in the 70s. I love it at that time of year. I know there was a frost advisory in that area last night.

Headquarters is right there in Millinocket, so you can check in with them to see what the status of the trails are before driving to the park.

The Golden road has plenty of scenic views and good chance to sight moose. I've never taken the road all the way to Greenville, but I would if it was on my itinerary. Abol Bridge, Rippogenus Dam, and Caribou Bog are some of the scenic stops on the Golden Road. One time I was so busy taking pictures of the dri-ki at Caribou Bog I almost didn't notice the moose that was coming my way.

Also, the paper company (once Great Northern, now Katahdin Paper, or something like that) has some very nice cabins that they rent. They're about $95/night, sleep as many as you like, gas heat and lights, outhouse, no running water. The ones at Compass Pond and Sunday Pond have awesome views of Katahdin. It's great for a winter trip outside the park.

 

[voodoochile13]

It has been a while since I posted anything. Just got back from a two week stint in New Mexico. Philmont to be exact if anyone is familiar. What a great experience. Any way luv 2 hike. You will luv Baxter. Been going there the past 4 years for fall. You should be fine the first week in October. The weather can turn, but typically the days are nice around 70's and the nights can be a bit chilly. A few trails to the summit may be closed (Knifes Edge) due to inclement weather, however there are several other trails. I have never reached the summit, due to time constrant. I think twigeater stated that it takes about 8 or 9 hours to summit and come back. That is true. Also you need to find out what the latest you are allowed to leave from any given parking lot. Usually, it is early in the morning. Last year I stayed at Katahdin Stream Camp in a Lean-to for 3 nights. Was really fun. I hiked the Katahdin Stream trail I believe it is called, which turns into the Hunt trail, or may be the same trail. Anyway this is a really nice hike. You can take it up to the waterfalls and a bit further. There is a nice staircase above the falls. Really nice views in this area. I hiked the Hunt Trail a bit further, and then decided to turn around. Not much scenery after the staircase. If you would like to reach the peak. I suggest driving to Roaring Brook Camp. Need to get there early. Take Chimney Pond Trail up to Chimney Pond Camp, then you can take Cathedral Trail to summit. This trail is usually open. The views are also incredible along Chimney Pond Trail. To see Moose hang out at Sandy Stream Pond. Don't be afraid to stay after sunset. Moose usually come out early morning to after sunset. May get chilly, so remember those warm clothes. Another good Moose sighting spot is Stump Pond. The Golden Road is also very scenic. It is a hard packed dirt road which is about 35 miles to Greenville. Just watch some of the potholes. Also, when inside Baxter. The roads are very long and slow speed limit. When you get to the Ranger staffed entrance you can either go left or right. Right to Roaring Brook and Sandy Stream, which is about 10 miles dirt. Left takes you to Stump Pond and Katahdin Stream Camp, and also many other places within the park. Hope your trip is great. Will not be heading up this year due to vacation has pretty much run out.

 

[trailbiscuit]

Baxter is fantastic. You'll have a blast.

David M. is wise, as always: Definitely plan to get to the gate early, especially on a weekend. The park limits the number of cars for day use. However, I would assume that midweek in October, it should be no problem.

The Abol and Hunt trails make a great loop from the West of Katahdin. But, definitely give yourself plenty of time. It's rugged. And, like MichaelJ said, be ready for anything weather wise. A trip to Chimney Pond is definitely worth it, whether you plan to summit from that direction or not.

As far as other hikes go: I would definitely recommend the Owl. The trail starts at Katahdin Stream campground and conicides w/ the AT for about a mile. Great hike with a unique perspective of Katahdin.
North Brother is a great hike with options to bushwhack to Fort (if you're a twisted peakbagger, like myself) or loop over South Brother and Coe. The loop makes for a long day, and I would recommend ascending the Coe slide. (That makes the loop counterclockwise.) The view from South Brother is one of my favorites in New England.
South Turner mountain from Roaring Brook campground is a nice short-ish option with a high probability of a moose sighting at Sandy Stream Pond.
I still haven't hit OJI or Doublehead, but I'm sure you can't go wrong.

Have fun!