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Summer Waxing

drjeff

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Unless you're an elite level racer, with the modern tuning equipment available, you can get a decent fresh edge and a coat of universal hot wax on the boards in about 10 minutes. There are multiple edge sharpeners on the market that with a couple of quick passes will get both the base edge and sidewall edge tuned up, and with waxing, GET A REAL SKI WAX IRON (they'll ususally pop up every couple of months on places like Steap and Cheap for less than $40). The difference that a real waxing iron makes over a standard clothes iron is really night and day.

This 10 minutes will make a noticebale difference in your onhill enjoyment. If you want to go crazy and learn how to do a true elite level race tune, well then you're looking at a solid hour of work for 1 pair by the time you hand file witht he file guides, detune, structure the base and then wax in multiple layer with lots of scraping and brushing inbetween the layers. But then again there are very few folks in the world that can really tell the difference between a basic tune and an elite level tune, especially without the help of a timed race run.
 

drjeff

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Nuff Said
bicycle%20girl%202.jpg

Thank you Trek ;)
 

hardline

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Unless you're an elite level racer, with the modern tuning equipment available, you can get a decent fresh edge and a coat of universal hot wax on the boards in about 10 minutes. There are multiple edge sharpeners on the market that with a couple of quick passes will get both the base edge and sidewall edge tuned up, and with waxing, GET A REAL SKI WAX IRON (they'll ususally pop up every couple of months on places like Steap and Cheap for less than $40). The difference that a real waxing iron makes over a standard clothes iron is really night and day.

This 10 minutes will make a noticebale difference in your onhill enjoyment. If you want to go crazy and learn how to do a true elite level race tune, well then you're looking at a solid hour of work for 1 pair by the time you hand file witht he file guides, detune, structure the base and then wax in multiple layer with lots of scraping and brushing inbetween the layers. But then again there are very few folks in the world that can really tell the difference between a basic tune and an elite level tune, especially without the help of a timed race run.

some of those edge tools are just a burly file. the only time yo need to use a file is if you really screwed your edges. diamond stones are the best way to keep you edges fresh. it is amazing what you can polish out with a stone. but above all the most importan tool is beer
 

Sky

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1) Yes, thank you TC.

2) Dr Jeff...too true. Not an elite racer...just a schlumper getting my weekly kix. Yep, need a ski wax specific iron. Won't get TOO hot, no holes for the wax to collect. No worries....I'm on it.

3) Hardline...I have a version of a diamond file that prolly needs an upgrade. You are right, they do a nice job of maintaining nice edges....I'm not into the heavy filing part at all. If I've ding'd up the bases or edges that bad...I'm interested in professional aid.
 

hardline

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1) Yes, thank you TC.

2) Dr Jeff...too true. Not an elite racer...just a schlumper getting my weekly kix. Yep, need a ski wax specific iron. Won't get TOO hot, no holes for the wax to collect. No worries....I'm on it.

3) Hardline...I have a version of a diamond file that prolly needs an upgrade. You are right, they do a nice job of maintaining nice edges....I'm not into the heavy filing part at all. If I've ding'd up the bases or edges that bad...I'm interested in professional aid.

just get a couple of file guides to match your base bevels and your golden.
 

Sky

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Right File guides. That one cheapo I have was really convenient...but the diamond edging looks errahhh....depleted.

Arctech has a nice set of the diamond files and guides.

We shall see....just had to put a new fuel pump in the Blazer today. :< The good nes, it croaked in the driveway...AND I got to stay home form work today (and work from home while taking a vaca day since the boss doesn't condone the work from home thing despite me being on the phone and e-mail all frickin day...Sheesh *bitter?*

Anyway, first things first. Scored the Fischer RC4's during the MA Tax Free weekend. SHould do the vices then the files over the next couple of months.

The fridge is already in the basement (one of theose small dorm-room jobbers)...and the beer is a consumable which we never seem to run out of.
 
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Atomic Jeff from PASR is an uber good wax and tune specialist so alot of times I buy him a case of beer and he tunes my skis up. Apparently beer and ski tuning go hand in hand. The difference between dried up bases and a temperature specific wax is night and day. He does a 3 degree bevel which really bites into the PA hardpack well..
 

Sky

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He does a 3 degree bevel which really bites into the PA hardpack well..

Edge bevel, base bevel...or both?

I know I'm not quite ready for a base bevel. I keep with the 2 degree edge bevel on my stuff.

At my height...the pendulum swing required to get my edges that far away from me (for anything more than 2 degrees) is significant.
 
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Edge bevel, base bevel...or both?

I know I'm not quite ready for a base bevel. I keep with the 2 degree edge bevel on my stuff.

At my height...the pendulum swing required to get my edges that far away from me (for anything more than 2 degrees) is significant.

3 degrees on the one edge and 1 degree on the other..I trust him..that's for sure..

Sky do you cork in Fluro wax when you do Nastar/Beer League racing? It makes a difference the first 100 yards or so..
 

Sky

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1 degree on the other..I trust him..that's for sure..

Sky do you cork in Fluro wax when you do Nastar/Beer League racing? It makes a difference the first 100 yards or so..


I've heard 1 degree works pretty good for the-hard-pack. In my next life, I'll be shorter.

No, I don't do the corking and the flouro...I'm not THAT into it. But if I need to, maybe I will.

Our team is in the middle of the pack. Out of the house guaranteed for 8 weeks...more if we don't tell anyone when the last race is.

We don't do the suits, but we "trim down" at the gates.
 

hardline

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Edge bevel, base bevel...or both?

I know I'm not quite ready for a base bevel. I keep with the 2 degree edge bevel on my stuff.

At my height...the pendulum swing required to get my edges that far away from me (for anything more than 2 degrees) is significant.

depends on the boards but i leave the side edges where they are just smooth them out with fine d stone. on the base my crusier has just a 1 degree maybe a tad more at the tip and tail. the jib honk gets 2.5 all the way around. the powder board is 2 and the splity is at .5 need the extra bit on ice traverses.

base bevel helps for a smother intiation of turns plus is great when you ned to glide on flats. it lets you keep your base's flat.
 
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I've heard 1 degree works pretty good for the-hard-pack. In my next life, I'll be shorter.

No, I don't do the corking and the flouro...I'm not THAT into it. But if I need to, maybe I will.

Our team is in the middle of the pack. Out of the house guaranteed for 8 weeks...more if we don't tell anyone when the last race is.

We don't do the suits, but we "trim down" at the gates.


I don't have a suit..I just strip down to my turtleneck when I do Nastar..
 

Sky

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re: Hardline...Base bevel...sounds like you've got a system going for you.

re: GSS...stripping down to the turtleneck...errahhh...trying to drop that image. :>

I do about the same thing. One of my kids got me this sweet shirt..thumb-holes in the sleeves, sort of silky turtleneck thin form Adidas. I wear a layer or two under that and some slick pants (with appropriate insulation underneath) and that works well.

I bought a pair of spandexy running pants at the New balance outlet that I am "contemplating" as outerwear for race-night.

Hopefully...the Fischer RC4's get me where I want to be WITHOUT the slick pants. We shall see. Depserate times/deseperate measures...you know he drill.
 
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Edge bevel, base bevel...or both?

I know I'm not quite ready for a base bevel. I keep with the 2 degree edge bevel on my stuff.

At my height...the pendulum swing required to get my edges that far away from me (for anything more than 2 degrees) is significant.

Base bevel isn't something for experts or racers only...if a ski doesn't have a base bevel you won't be able to slide them at all, they'll feel like they have a mind of their own and you'll have a miserable time. Most ski co.s have a factory tune somewhere near 1 deg on the base and 2-3 deg on the side. Your Fischer RC4s come with a factory spec of .75 on the base and 3 on the side. Pretty much any shop you bring your skis to for a tune will do a 1 deg on the base and 1-3 on the side. But base edges don't need to be tuned as frequently as side edges...once the base bevel is set all you need to do is remove any burrs you may get with a diamond stone. Like hardline said, get a good diamond stone and a side edge guide that'll handle multiple angles and you'll have everything you need for the home shop (along with the wax and iron). Don't blow your $$ on anything more expensive than LF wax (swix)...LF is plenty good for nastar and you'd gain more time with a speed suit on than you would using $100/gram wax. I took a half second off my times when I put on a suit...on a 24 sec course.
 

RENO

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I did nothing with my snowboard. After it dryed I threw it in the closet. No rust. Base is in great condition. When the time comes I'll get a nice tune on it and it'll be great!:-D
I wax it everytime I use it throughout the season too. Not a hot wax, but a couple different waxes depending on the snow conditions. Sometimes I'll wax it twice a day...
 

hardline

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I did nothing with my snowboard. After it dryed I threw it in the closet. No rust. Base is in great condition. When the time comes I'll get a nice tune on it and it'll be great!:-D
I wax it everytime I use it throughout the season too. Not a hot wax, but a couple different waxes depending on the snow conditions. Sometimes I'll wax it twice a day...

the problem with rub on or brush on waxes is they dont get absorbed as deep into the base. this is one of the reason you may have to wax twice in one day. as your base dries you will get little hairs. it may look like they disappear when you rub wax on but they are still there. where this all comes into play is in the spring slop or very cold snow.

i have a severe problem base burn on the edges of my freeride boards. i actually have to wax the edges of my boards with a harder wax than in the center. i spend very little time on my base. i never had the problem when we used to hotbox our boards but i just have not had the time to build a new one.
 

Hawkshot99

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i never had the problem when we used to hotbox our boards but i just have not had the time to build a new one.

What is a hot box?

I didnt do anything to my skis this past spring. Dried then off, and thet have been hanging on my bedroom wall since January when I stopped skiing. I will give them a real nice tune before I use them or sell them.
 

drjeff

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What is a hot box?

I didnt do anything to my skis this past spring. Dried then off, and thet have been hanging on my bedroom wall since January when I stopped skiing. I will give them a real nice tune before I use them or sell them.


Think of a "hot box" as a big 'ol low temperature heat oven for a ski/board. You base prep the ski/board with a nice soft wax, then wax in the more temp specific higher fluoro waxes you think will be the right call and then basically put the ski in the oven for hours which will really enhance the wax uptake and when done and when finally scraped and brushed and scraped and brushed and scraped and brushed and scraped and brushed give you one really fast glide(as long as you used the right temp wax ;) )

Again, unless your an elite level competitor, you really won't be able to tell the difference between the hot box and a quick 5 minute universal wax job, unless you're in a timed race course, and even then *most* folks won't see that much of a difference
 

hardline

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What is a hot box?

I didnt do anything to my skis this past spring. Dried then off, and thet have been hanging on my bedroom wall since January when I stopped skiing. I will give them a real nice tune before I use them or sell them.

an eclosed box that brings your whole ski/board up to a temp that over period of time allows you bases to absorb more wax that traditional waxing.

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