Summer Waxing

[hardline]

did you miss the picture?:wink:

you have got more miles out of that photo.

 

[Hawkshot99]

Think of a "hot box" as a big 'ol low temperature heat oven for a ski/board. You base prep the ski/board with a nice soft wax, then wax in the more temp specific higher fluoro waxes you think will be the right call and then basically put the ski in the oven for hours which will really enhance the wax uptake and when done and when finally scraped and brushed and scraped and brushed and scraped and brushed and scraped and brushed give you one really fast glide(as long as you used the right temp wax )

Again, unless your an elite level competitor, you really won't be able to tell the difference between the hot box and a quick 5 minute universal wax job, unless you're in a timed race course, and even then *most* folks won't see that much of a difference

I just use the cheapest bulk wax I can. I don't look into temps when waxing. I am fast enough with the cheap. But I don't race, so I might change my opinion if I did.

 

[Sky]

did you miss the picture?:wink:

And again...it's a woman adjusting the "bar".

*I'll leave it up to the individual to determine if it's "raise" or "lower"*

Thanks again TC.

 

[Sky]

Most ski co.s have a factory tune somewhere near 1 deg on the base and 2-3 deg on the side. Your Fischer RC4s come with a factory spec of .75 on the base and 3 on the side. Pretty much any shop you bring your skis to for a tune will do a 1 deg on the base and 1-3 on the side. But base edges don't need to be tuned as frequently as side edges...once the base bevel is set all you need to do is remove any burrs you may get with a diamond stone. Like hardline said, get a good diamond stone and a side edge guide that'll handle multiple angles and you'll have everything you need for the home shop (along with the wax and iron). Don't blow your $$ on anything more expensive than LF wax (swix)...LF is plenty good for nastar and you'd gain more time with a speed suit on than you would using $100/gram wax. I took a half second off my times when I put on a suit...on a 24 sec course.

Thanks!

re: base bevel...when I pick them up...I'll ask about it and see what the shop can do. I bet the side beel is 3 (if all my other non-GS skis are 2).

re: Diamond stone and guides. Will do.

re: LF...again, thanks...good guidance and will do.

re: the suit. Man....you're pushing it. :> We'll see. I'm seriously hoping I drop the 1 sec or so I need to score Gold with the GS skis vs the all mountains I've been racing. I have those stretch running pants for the "next" level. The suits aren't cheap and I'm not travelling to compete in master's level stuff...just the 9 weeks @ Wa.

I suppose jumping up to GS skis may seem a bit much for this level of racing. But what put me over the top (aside from the great deal I got AND the feeling I got when I demo'd a pair of the RC4's last spring)...I was skiing mid-week and shared a chair with this older guy (I'm guessing mid-late 60's)...and he was sporting Atomic GS whatevers (9's or 11's I forget). So I asked him if he ever considered an AM ride vs GS. His response was immediate. "I love the hard pack. When it's gone...so am I. And these skis are perfect for those conditions".

I thought about that...and it made some sense (certainly for him). The Volks I'm on, their length, why I picked them etc is a story not worth telling (now, four years later). But they made a huge difference in my perfomrance and attitude. So the move to the GS ride was probably inevitable.

I'm thinking the thinner waist of the GS ski vs the Volkl AM will get me faster edge to edge. It certainly felt that way on the demo pair.

Trust me...I'll let you know when it works (...and maybe if it doesn't, sort of as a warning to others that may attempt to follow my path).

Thanks for all the pointers folks.

 

[RENO]

the problem with rub on or brush on waxes is they dont get absorbed as deep into the base. this is one of the reason you may have to wax twice in one day. as your base dries you will get little hairs. it may look like they disappear when you rub wax on but they are still there. where this all comes into play is in the spring slop or very cold snow.

i have a severe problem base burn on the edges of my freeride boards. i actually have to wax the edges of my boards with a harder wax than in the center. i spend very little time on my base. i never had the problem when we used to hotbox our boards but i just have not had the time to build a new one.

1 wax is usually good except in Spring. With the conditions drastically changing by the hour I usually have to apply some more wax especially when the snow turns to mush...

 

[drjeff]

Bump! Trekchick "made" me do it! :lol:

 

[Puck it]

Nuff Said

Do we know who this is a picture of? Or should we know her?