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kitchen cabinet make over project

MR. evil

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Mildcat

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Its a Porter Cable HPLV conversion sprayer, its the kind that uses a standard air compressor. But you need a compressor with a large tank to paint a large area. I had to borrow my friends 30 gallon compressor becuase my 10 gallon didn't have enough air to spray more than one side of a door before it re-charged.

http://www.deltaportercable.com/Products/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=11579

Did you have a problem with moisture from the compressor? I own some really nice spray guns for automotive use (Sata & Devilbiss) but I've been toying with the idea of buying a hvlp turbine system for spraying cabinets.
 

MR. evil

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Did you have a problem with moisture from the compressor? I own some really nice spray guns for automotive use (Sata & Devilbiss) but I've been toying with the idea of buying a hvlp turbine system for spraying cabinets.

No problem what so ever. While I was doing research on HPLV spray guns I read that a big problem with the turbine setup is that they generate heat. During extended use the excess heat from the turbine causes the air in the system to heat up which can have a negative impact on the paint. Most of the professional cabinet makers I talked with all prefer the conversion guns over the turbine units for that reason.
 

Mildcat

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No problem what so ever. While I was doing research on HPLV spray guns I read that a big problem with the turbine setup is that they generate heat. During extended use the excess heat from the turbine causes the air in the system to heat up which can have a negative impact on the paint. Most of the professional cabinet makers I talked with all prefer the conversion guns over the turbine units for that reason.

I did hear that about the turbines heating up the air, especially with oil based paint. I should just buy a better water separator for my compressor and use my Sata when I paint some trim in my living room.

How far did you have to cover the floors, walls, etc to keep the overspray off? Oil or water based?
 

MR. evil

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I did hear that about the turbines heating up the air, especially with oil based paint. I should just buy a better water separator for my compressor and use my Sata when I paint some trim in my living room.

How far did you have to cover the floors, walls, etc to keep the overspray off? Oil or water based?

The primer I used was shellac (sp?) based, nasty stuff. But its really the option when priming MDF. The bead board in the doors is MDF. The finish coat will be Sherwin Williams Pro Classic (acrylic latex). Over spray was not an issue, the paint is so well atomized that the over spray falls to the floor as dust.
 

Glenn

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Did you have to thin the paint out at all? I have a repaint the shed next year and using a gun would be a lot easier than roller...
 

Mildcat

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Did you have to thin the paint out at all? I have a repaint the shed next year and using a gun would be a lot easier than roller...

A small airless sprayer would get that done in a few minutes with very little to no thinning required.
 

MR. evil

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Did you have to thin the paint out at all? I have a repaint the shed next year and using a gun would be a lot easier than roller...

A small airless sprayer would get that done in a few minutes with very little to no thinning required.



I agree with Mildcat, an airless sprayer would be the way to go. You can rent them from HomeDepot for about $75 for the day. I rented one a couple of years ago to stain my fence. HPLV sprayers are for fine finish work, and would take FOREVER to paint a shed. IMO you could actually paint your shed faster with a brush that an HPLV sprayer.
 

MR. evil

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What I did this weekend………….almost done with fabrication


photo-5.JPG


photo-6.JPG
 

MR. evil

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Reviving this thread from the dead.

The kitchen renovation project just won't end. Every time I think we are wrapping up we change or add something. Newest addition is a large peninsula cabinet and tall pantry cabinet both built from scratch. Though instill haven't finished the doors for either. Also finishing up on the concrete countertops. 2 or the 4 sections of counter have been polished, sealed and installed. The last 2 sections are in the garage halfway through the polishing stage.
ImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448257.018915.jpgImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448294.716856.jpgImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448318.769389.jpgImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448361.721784.jpg
 

MR. evil

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Some pics of the counter making process

ImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448445.177982.jpg

This big guy weight about 500lbs
ImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448468.373928.jpg
ImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448519.448346.jpg

What they look like before grinding and polishing
ImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448575.123784.jpg
 

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MR. evil

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After polishing and sealing
ImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448681.579273.jpg

The movers I hired to carry the peninsula counter up from the garage to the kitchen. Two guys carried this 500lb monster like it was nothing....best $125 I spent this whole project
ImageUploadedByAlpineZone1362448779.561107.jpg
 

MR. evil

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Next on the list is new flooring and backsplash. Just need to pick the colors and get the stuff ordered.
 
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ctenidae

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Those counters look great. I poured mine in place in our place in Boston a while back- lesson learned was that a cement mixer would have been great.
 
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