Hi, My new K2 rictors seem to need wax MUCH faster than any of my other skiis. I waxed my blizzard magnums and k2 rictors on the same day. Both pairs were hot waxed with identical swix mid temp wax. The blizzards still look shiny and ready to go after 5 days on the snow. The rictors have that dry, grey look after 1.5 days on the slopes in similiar conditions. I dont get it. I put a coat of wax on the rictors after I bought them before they saw snow, then a second hot wax after about 4 days of use. Does K2 use a different type of PTEX bases, or are they still absorbing the wax? Any advice out there will be helpful. Tim from Ma.
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My new k2's bases dry out fast
- Thread starter tmcc71
- Start date
drjeff
Well-known member
Many times with new skis, it will take MULTIPLE hot waxing to build up enough of a layer of wax within the matrix of the base material to get some longevity. This is why you see racers in particular very often apply 5 - 10 coats of a softer wax to their skis before they take them out onto the hill for the 1st time.
One of the best, longest lasting waxes that I've found is made by a small company called stuntwax ( www.stunwax.com ) It's owned by an instructor/chemist and was "designed" not just for speed in racing situations, but also longevity and performance for professionals such as Patrollers and Instructors. I go back and forth between their performance wax and their race wax - both are really good across all temperature ranges and snow surfaces (with the higher fluorination the race wax is a little better in wet snow than the performance wax, but their both really good waxes). Hot wax as usual, DON'T SCRAPE! Go skiing!
what do you guys mean when you say scape too much? I borrowed my brothers K2 ski's recently and thought they were alittle slow as well. I am taking my new Dynastar's out this week for the first time. The local shop said to run them as is and that I dont need any wax on them, that they came prewaxed, True or false?
Also I got some can wax that I can rub on. Should I use it before skiing for the first time?
Also I got some can wax that I can rub on. Should I use it before skiing for the first time?
I just got my brand new Dynastar Sultan 85s yesterday. They don't look like they have ANY wax on them at all. My plan was to hot wax them tonight. What do you mean by don't scrape? I usually hot wax then scrap flat with the edges, then do it again another time or 2 for new skis.
Also what are you home tuners thoughts on the edge angles from the factory? The reason I ask is several reviewers said that the angles were not correct on brand new Dynastars. I can hot wax but I don't feel comfortable grinding edges of new skis. I don'tnhave the proper edge grinding tools. My thoughts were to ski on them this weekend and see how they feel. If I think the edges need help I'll bring them in to a local shop Sunday.
Also what are you home tuners thoughts on the edge angles from the factory? The reason I ask is several reviewers said that the angles were not correct on brand new Dynastars. I can hot wax but I don't feel comfortable grinding edges of new skis. I don'tnhave the proper edge grinding tools. My thoughts were to ski on them this weekend and see how they feel. If I think the edges need help I'll bring them in to a local shop Sunday.
drjeff
Well-known member
Just about every new ski is shipped from the factory with a generic all temperature wax on them. Probably don't need to supplement that at all unless you're an elite level racer and are looking to save a few tenths of a second in the race course
drjeff
Well-known member
Scraping vs. not scraping before skiing them. For about 98% of the skiing public you won't notice any difference in how a ski turns if you don't scrape. If you're an elite level racer, then scraping and brushing will have some differnce on your final time in the course. So as long as when you're done ironing the wax in if you have a smooth surface on the wax (more of a function of you having a flat base and a flat iron) then you can be done.
Factory edge angles. Total personal preference thing. Most manufacturers will ship their skis to a shop with a grind that has the base and side edge beveled in the 1 to 1.5 degree area (still a 90 degree edge), and for most folks that's going to be fine. Some folks might want to play with their edge angles a little, either through new grinds at their local shops or via home tuning with either an all in one edge sharpener (I've had the Ski Visions Ski Sharp for well over a decade now that has 3 degrees of adjustability on both the base and side edge - real easy to use device, with multiple files/diamond stones/gummi stone inserts available if you desire - they have them online at plaves like Reliable Racing Supply and Tognar) or hand files and a file guide (*Note, there is a HUGE difference between a ski/board specific file and a file that you can buy at say Home Depot*). But this is totally an indivual feel thing as to what works for you - myself personally I like a 1.5 degree base bevel and a 3 degree side bevel from tip to tail with no detuning. Most folks though as long as there's some base bevel to help clear the edges off the snow when you're gliding on a flat ski, and matching side edge bevel won't notice much of a differnce in how the ski performs until the edge sustains some significant damage from say a rock, so don't stress too much about what the factory "default" angles are
kingslug
Well-known member
I read somewhere that the k2 bases are very hard and do not hold wax well..guess it might be true..not sure which model though..think it was the extremes so I don't know if yours have the same. Oh, a little trick I learned about waxing. I don't glob it on with the iron and then scrape a pile off..I heat up the bases a little then crayon the wax on..just enough to spread out a very thin layer..then scrape off a little..no mbig mess and it saves on wax which aint cheap.
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