Mounting Bindings Question

Greg · Nov 27, 2007

2knees said:
I had my head mad trix mounted 1 inch forward. no idea why, just cause i've read that i should. Even though its too late, would you mind telling me what the benefit is?

Me too. I felt 1 cm was a safe variation, but had no specific experience as to why I should.

jack97 said:
I think the main factors are; putting pressure on the front of the ski, thus getting a quicker turn initiation. I think its harder to put this front pressure when the mount is toward the back. The second is aft/fore balance, you can get off the backseat by leveraging from the tail since you have more running surface.

edit: Hey did you try those skis yet?

On my Cabrawlers, again also at 1cm forward, I've found that I can get the tips diving pretty easily. Probably more to do with the lightweight of the ski, but maybe the slight forwardness of the binding has also contributed. In fact, in the Mount Snow vid, there are a few instances where my tails kick way up as I'm forcing the tips down. I was purposely skiing that way (somewhat erratically) to try to feel out the skis.

jack97 · Nov 27, 2007

Greg said:
On my Cabrawlers, again also at 1cm forward, I've found that I can get the tips diving pretty easily. Probably more to do with the lightweight of the ski, but maybe the slight forwardness of the binding has also contributed. In fact, in the Mount Snow vid, there are a few instances where my tails kick way up as I'm forcing the tips down. I was purposely skiing that way (somewhat erratically) to try to feel out the skis.

Could be that the mount placed you at the balance point of the ski. Should be able to lift the tip up or drive them down, both with equal ease which should be independent of the ski wieght. Would be interesting to do this with your AC3 maybe a season before you decide to replace it, figure you can try the forward mount in other terrain.

Anyways, keeping the tips down is a good thing... in the bumps at least. :dunce:

MRGisevil · Nov 27, 2007

Uhm. Yeah, won't even try to act like I know. Have shiny object syndrome...completely derails any chance I might have at aquiring some actually useful knowledge about gear...

Greg · Nov 27, 2007

jack97 said:
Could be that the mount placed you at the balance point of the ski. Should be able to lift the tip up or drive them down, both with equal ease which should be independent of the ski wieght. Would be interesting to do this with your AC3 maybe a season before you decide to replace it, figure you can try the forward mount in other terrain.

Anyways, keeping the tips down is a good thing... in the bumps at least. :dunce:

Too late. The AC3s are being replaced by some Legend 8000s. Went with the Dyna recommended mount.

You know sometimes I struggle with believing a mere 1 cm move really makes all that much of a difference. Often times it boils down to the operator, not the equipment. I guess I take the approach of trying to get any advantage I can get though... :lol:

prisnah · Nov 27, 2007

The recomended line is core center. I would just mount 'em up on the reco line for all mountain performance.

If you're worried tho, measure the ski tip to tip. Divide the number you get in half and that'll be true center. If the recomended line is behind where you've measured true center to be then the reco. line is their all mountain line and I would not go further back than that.

Most park skis reco line IS for all mountain. Very few park skis have the line at true center, unless they are symmetrical skis.

jack97 · Nov 27, 2007

Greg said:
You know sometimes I struggle with believing a mere 1 cm move really makes all that much of a difference. Often times it boils down to the operator, not the equipment. I guess I take the approach of trying to get any advantage I can get though... :lol:

I hear ya. I just remember few seasons back; I would ski bumps in my volkl g3, a really stiff ski, my ankles would be sore at the end of the day. I finally found some new k2 axis x, a softer ski, couldn't demo it but I got it b/c of the cheap price, my ankles feel a lot better.

Trekchick · Nov 27, 2007

severine said:
So...doing a very inexact estimation between 2 sick kids crying out for me (via balancing the ski on mu finger, marking that point, comparing that to BOF, and about where that should fall as far as boot center goes), it looks like (in theory) these should be okay to mount right on the ski marking to get BOF mounting. So instead of screwing around with cm forward or backward, I think I'm going to just tell them to go with BOF since that looks like it should come out about the same to what's marked on the ski anyway.

At least I've learned a lot more about mounting bindings today!

Keep in mind that Center of Balance with a ski and center of contact length are two completely different things.
Seriously, I'd consider going 1 back from BOF, if you want the safe bet. If you think you'll be doing any park stuff, then maybe not, because you'll want to be centered for 180's and 360's.

severine · Nov 27, 2007

Like I said, it was a quick estimation... I will definitely be talking this over with the people in the shop for their opinion, too. Who knew it would get so confusing when trying to learn about it myself instead of just trusting someone else to make the right decision?

Trekchick · Nov 27, 2007

severine said:
Like I said, it was a quick estimation... I will definitely be talking this over with the people in the shop for their opinion, too. Who knew it would get so confusing when trying to learn about it myself instead of just trusting someone else to make the right decision?

The best thing is that you'll walk into the shop, informed.
severine, I'm impressed. You are like a sponge. Soon, you'll have to get a license plate like the one I have on my jeep.

severine · Nov 27, 2007

Just when I think I've got it.... :lol:

I'm not a very mechanical/technical minded person normally. But this was something that intrigued me when I first read it in passing, thus leading to this grand experiment.

So might as well make the experiment worth it and go for a little less than the conventional, right?

Trekchick · Nov 27, 2007

Go for it!

severine · Nov 27, 2007

Just to be super geeky about it, I took out my Dynastar Novas and compared midsole markings on the skis. When lined up between the 2 skis, the binding would definitely be further forward on the Marie Martinod skis than the Novas. It was actually pretty cool to compare the 2 side by side.

Crappy pics (and not the most interesting ones) but here they are together:

Novas are 154s, Maries are 165s (although that's fairly obvious

).... Sorry for not removing the plastic wrap yet.

Hawkshot99 · Nov 27, 2007

severine said:
J Maries are 165s (although that's fairly obvious ).... Sorry for not removing the plastic wrap yet.

While the Maries are a "165" they are not a true 165. The turned up tail makes them ski shorter than a 165. How much depends on the ski. So to compare them you need to compare contact length of each.(removes the front from Nova and front and tail from Marie)

And there is no way to better show how new they are than plastic wrap!:dunce::razz:

GrilledSteezeSandwich · Nov 28, 2007

I have my Rossi Scratch Sprayer BCs mounted in the rear(standard position)...I like alot of ski in front of me..but I'm not really a park rider..I bought the skis for all mountain and powder..

Trekchick · Nov 28, 2007

Severine, all this research you're doing is making me giddy!!

If you mount the Marie Martinod, you'll have a similar picture as what I have with the eos and Blue house side by side.

Even though they will look extremely forward, the BH has such a dramatic tip on the tail that the contact length is masked at first glance.

Center mount will be good if you're playing in the park and hitting little poppers, (FUN!) but it will take away speed and float ability.
1 cm back will give you more of an all mountain and powder ski.

Doing something different than what you have is what having another pair of skis is all about! Do it!

severine · Nov 28, 2007

Trekchick said:
Center mount will be good if you're playing in the park and hitting little poppers, (FUN!) but it will take away speed and float ability.
1 cm back will give you more of an all mountain and powder ski.

I know I don't plan on becoming a park rat so 1 cm back sounds like where I want then. It will still be a dramatically different experience than the Novas.

Now... decisions on the shop. The one I planned on using isn't a Dynastar/Look retailer, so I'll have to bring them elsewhere... And with the weekend coming up, I'm not sure if I'm ready to hand over my boots. May have to wait until Monday to drop them off for mounting.

campgottagopee · Nov 28, 2007

I need to be honest here. i have a pair of skis that allow me to move bindings frontwards and backwards for various skiing. They claim front for intitating quicker turns and back for carving, but honestly I really can't tell the diff. Kinda like dudes when they get their skis tuned...."oh I need my inside edge 1 degree flat"....common, yeah sure, iffin your a world cup skier maybe. Prolly just means I'm not good nuff to tell the diff.

Trekchick · Nov 28, 2007

severine said:
I know I don't plan on becoming a park rat so 1 cm back sounds like where I want then. It will still be a dramatically different experience than the Novas. Now... decisions on the shop. The one I planned on using isn't a Dynastar/Look retailer, so I'll have to bring them elsewhere... And with the weekend coming up, I'm not sure if I'm ready to hand over my boots. May have to wait until Monday to drop them off for mounting.

you should see if someone up by Stowe can mount them for you when you come up and ski with me! :spin:

severine · Nov 29, 2007

You certainly are persistent!

Trekchick · Nov 29, 2007

Tempting isn't it?:razz:

Mounting Bindings Question

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