Brake Pads

[gmcunni]

Seems riding in the rain really does a number my brake pads (rim brakes). Looks like i need to order another pair and put them on. LBS did the last ones for me, DIY time now. Is there a better quality brake pad that won't deteriorate so much in wet conditions. or just buy a bunch and replace as needed?

 

[Greg]

Another brake question, totally unrelated to Gary's original post, but still on topic. I have Avid Juicy 3 hydraulic brakes. How do I know when I need to replace the pads? Obviously, with disk brakes, there is a bit less of a visual than with rim brakes.

 

[MR. evil]

Another brake question, totally unrelated to Gary's original post, but still on topic. I have Avid Juicy 3 hydraulic brakes. How do I know when I need to replace the pads? Obviously, with disk brakes, there is a bit less of a visual than with rim brakes.

I replace mine once a year. But it also depends on what type you have. Organic pads are softer and wear faster. I use semi-metalic pads and they seem to last longer

 

[bvibert]

Seems riding in the rain really does a number my brake pads (rim brakes). Looks like i need to order another pair and put them on. LBS did the last ones for me, DIY time now. Is there a better quality brake pad that won't deteriorate so much in wet conditions. or just buy a bunch and replace as needed?

When you find out let me know. I've gone through several sets of pads this season. My LBS stocks the XTR pads (I have Shimano style cartridge type pad holders), which don't seem to last too long. The last time I ordered something from Pricepoint.com they had some Avid Rim Wrangler 2 pads on sale, which is what I'm running on the rear now. So far, after a couple of rides they seem fine, but I don't have enough time in them to recommend one way or the other.

 

[Talisman]

I've tried a few different brands of brake pads and stick with OEM for quick swap outs. Be aware that pads that last a long time may be wearing down your rims faster than normal.

Most hydraulic brakes have a steel 'wiper' that will squeal when the brakes are applied when the brake pads are worn down enough for the wiper to touch the disc surface.

 

[tjf67]

Another brake question, totally unrelated to Gary's original post, but still on topic. I have Avid Juicy 3 hydraulic brakes. How do I know when I need to replace the pads? Obviously, with disk brakes, there is a bit less of a visual than with rim brakes.

They are really cheap to replace and snap into place is seconds. You will know it the sound it makes is frightening.

 

[o3jeff]

At the end of tonight ride my rear brakes were starting to make the dreaded shreaking noise. Will try to pick up a new pair of pads tomorrow and try to change them out myself.

 

[Greg]

At the end of tonight ride my rear brakes were starting to make the dreaded shreaking noise. Will try to pick up a new pair of pads tomorrow and try to change them out myself.

It's all that braking you do...

:razz:

 

[o3jeff]

No wonder why I am so slow, the brakes are probably dragging....

 

[bvibert]

I've been going through a lot of brakes from trying to go through those twisties as Nass as fast as I can. That usually results in me pedaling real hard and then braking even harder to make the tight corner..

It didn't help that my rear brakes were dragging pretty good on my last ride. The springs in my rear brakes must be pretty weak, they don't return very well normally. Add to that the light battery pack I had on which had velcro straps over the brake cable, making it even less likely to return. Every time I stopped I had to reach back and pull the brake arms apart... Needless to say that I avoided using the rear brakes when possible.

 

[o3jeff]

I've been going through a lot of brakes from trying to go through those twisties as Nass as fast as I can. That usually results in me pedaling real hard and then braking even harder to make the tight corner..

It didn't help that my rear brakes were dragging pretty good on my last ride. The springs in my rear brakes must be pretty weak, they don't return very well normally. Add to that the light battery pack I had on which had velcro straps over the brake cable, making it even less likely to return. Every time I stopped I had to reach back and pull the brake arms apart... Needless to say that I avoided using the rear brakes when possible.

Sounds like you need a good bike mechanic instead of the hack that is doing the work now:grin::wink:

Picked up a set of pads, we'll see how changing them out goes tonight.

 

[o3jeff]

Just put the new pads on, pretty simple. Probably really didn't need new pads since there is plenty of pad left on them. It looks like the caliper just needed to be realigned with the rotor since one of the pads is worn more on one side which probably was causing the screeching noise. Will save the old pads as back up in case I ever need them.

At least now I know how the the braking system works and how to adjust it properly now.

 

[Greg]

Did you consult Zinn's? I'm hoping it's something I can pull off to despite having hydraulics.

 

[o3jeff]

Yes I did, but they don't have much on mechanical discs. The guy at the shop briefed me on it. The pads did come with some instructions that had a brief paragraph in 10 different languages on how to change them out.

These pads are the same ones used on the Avid Juicy(the hydralic brake) and the instruction did make mention that you have to push in the piston and I think bleed the brakes.

But to be honest I think I still had a good half to 3/4 pad life left on them compared to the new ones so I would really worry about the just yet other than if you order something, toss a set of pads on the order too to have.

 

[bvibert]

Did you consult Zinn's? I'm hoping it's something I can pull off to despite having hydraulics.

Changing pads on the Juicy's is easy. I'm sure you could do it, if you haven't already. I had mine out the other day, mostly just to see how everything went back together. You don't need to bleed the brakes as Jeff suggested, but you do need to push the pistons back in. I just used the closed end of an appropriately sized combo wrench to push it back in with. Alternatively, if you're replacing the pads anyway I don't see why you couldn't use a screw driver between the pads to push them apart. It may damage the pads, but the pistons will be pushed back as you do so. Then pull out the pad with the bent tang first, push it towards the other pad a little while pulling out to get it past the nub on the piston. Then pull out the other pad and the spring. Take the new pads spring and put them together with the spring between the pads. Hold them together and slide them into the caliper, observing that the pad with the R goes towards the spokes, until they click into place. That's it.

 

[Greg]

Changing pads on the Juicy's is easy. I'm sure you could do it, if you haven't already. I had mine out the other day, mostly just to see how everything went back together. You don't need to bleed the brakes as Jeff suggested, but you do need to push the pistons back in. I just used the closed end of an appropriately sized combo wrench to push it back in with. Alternatively, if you're replacing the pads anyway I don't see why you couldn't use a screw driver between the pads to push them apart. It may damage the pads, but the pistons will be pushed back as you do so. Then pull out the pad with the bent tang first, push it towards the other pad a little while pulling out to get it past the nub on the piston. Then pull out the other pad and the spring. Take the new pads spring and put them together with the spring between the pads. Hold them together and slide them into the caliper, observing that the pad with the R goes towards the spokes, until they click into place. That's it.

I might just have you show me sometime...

 

[bvibert]

I might just have you show me sometime...

I'd be happy to.