I am taking the rest of December off...

[riverc0il]

what in the world chart are you looking at? that is the DIN level my skis have been set at by shops for my last three pairs of mounts without my stats changing at all.

 

[riverc0il]

btw, setting a novice DIN to 7 or 8 is highly UNRECOMMENDED from my understanding of bindings. novice skiers reading this thread should pay no attention to that remark if you value your legs. most novice level bindings don't even go to DIN 11!!!

 

[LVNLARG]

Furthermore...I just looked at a chart and from what a can tell...you have your bindings set for a fresh out of the gate ...bunny hill...NOVICE. If you boot size is a group 3 and you're an expert skier your Din should actually be 11.25 I totally don't follow this binding din vs ski breaking logic either. If a skis gonna break...it's gonna break....din has no bearing on that. :blink:

Hey, lvnlarg wheres a din chart, I cant find one. I think I need to get both my skis din jumped up this year, how much would that cost anyway?

I erred..His boot is probably at least one size up from that so 10.75 for a consumer chart "expert".....which he is likely beyond anyway making 11+ still logical. Someone posted markers chart here > http://www.callisto.si.usherb.ca/~lacurve/html_gen/din.html . The factory reps will tell you that the consumer chart considers the actual real definition of Level 3 "able to ski blacks". Why? Because they know someone who can barely ski a black is gonna show up at the ski shop and say they're a level 3 "expert". An agressive expert (skis high speed on blacks) should add yet another column and a racer should add another column again for SL/GS and another yet another column again for DH/SG. So..if you have DH race boards your Din would actually be a whopping 5 columns down from novice. Ever notice that more often than not.. when a WC racer wipes their skis DO come off...and at WC level bindings are often cranked even further than the factory rep quoted guidelines I just eluded to. Most ski shops will crank up your din for free if you're a customer of theres. I wouldn't expect a charge of much more than $5-$10 for a full binding check and din crank. It's a 2 minute task for a pro being super carefull. :beer:

 

[LVNLARG]

btw, setting a novice DIN to 7 or 8 is highly UNRECOMMENDED from my understanding of bindings. novice skiers reading this thread should pay no attention to that remark if you value your legs. most novice level bindings don't even go to DIN 11!!!

Read the chart....a heavy novice = Din of 8...not 11..I was stating YOUR binding most likely should have been set at atleast 11. A novice is most certainly not going to be teching their own bindings anyway.

 

[awf170]

hmmm I should be at 6.25, I'm 130 pounds you guys think it is a good idea to set mine at 7 or is that too high? I'm at 5.5 and I pretty horrified that I'm just going to pop out of thing one these times at high speeds. What about setting my freerides a little higher, it makes sense to me because there is no way I ever want to popping out of a ski on something like tucks or hillmans, or is this just a stupid thing to think?

 

[LVNLARG]

hmmm I should be at 6.25, I'm 130 pounds you guys think it is a good idea to set mine at 7 or is that too high? I'm at 5.5 and I pretty horrified that I'm just going to pop out of thing one these times at high speeds. What about setting my freerides a little higher, it makes sense to me because there is no way I ever want to popping out of a ski on something like tucks or hillmans, or is this just a stupid thing to think?

Well what does the chart tell you +2 and +3 columns? I'd say someone who does tucks is most likely a +3. You'ld likely have a pack on adding yet another 20 lbs at tucks in addition to +10 lbs of regular gear... You need to go to someone really really in the know to get a good din rating....not the ski dept of a typical sports store. Generally...they are responsible for most of the world wearing boots 3 sizes too big never mind people releasing out of their bindings while riding the lift. If the regional rep for your binding manufactuer (not his lacky and whatever girls he could find to help him at the club the night before) is doing a demo day at a local resort ...he would be a good guy to approch. He'd likely do some figuring and set you up on the spot. Most manufacturers will let you know who the head guy for your area is and where you can meet him.

 

[riverc0il]

lvnlarg, u r suggesting all the qualified techs at the shops that have done my bindings are doing it wrong? how are you such an expert? which shop do you work at so i know where never to go? sorry, but i don't believe you are a credible source given the info you provided and i suggest others not take binding/DIN advice based on #s thrown around in this thread.

 

[LVNLARG]

lvnlarg, u r suggesting all the qualified techs at the shops that have done my bindings are doing it wrong? how are you such an expert? which shop do you work at so i know where never to go? sorry, but i don't believe you are a credible source given the info you provided and i suggest others not take binding/DIN advice based on #s thrown around in this thread.

Yeah...the Canadian national ski team techs and the manufacturers themselves likely know nothing about bindings and din settings. Screw them...I better go to your shop and have my Din set up with mis-matched #'s and your din... a rating I was speced at for racing when I was 12 and 110 lbs. You don't even have to beleive me....just read the friggin consumer chart put out by Marker. Even that says your Din should be over 10. But then...what would Marker know about bindings..... :roll: You have a broken arm due to your Din being too low and miss-matched and you're defending your shop and telling ME I know nothing?

 

[Greg]

Gonna move this to skiing...

 

[smootharc]

Great attitude, Riv....

....a lesson to us all.

Now three weeks from now when you're stir crazy, and get arrested for being drunk and dancing on your rooftop while mooning school busses and little old ladies...well, I'll have to revise my assessment.

:dunce:

Get well soon.

 

[salida]

Furthermore...I just looked at a chart and from what a can tell...you have your bindings set for a fresh out of the gate ...bunny hill...NOVICE. If you boot size is a group 3 and you're an expert skier your Din should actually be 11.25 I totally don't follow this binding din vs ski breaking logic either. If a skis gonna break...it's gonna break....din has no bearing on that. :blink:

Hey, lvnlarg wheres a din chart, I cant find one. I think I need to get both my skis din jumped up this year, how much would that cost anyway?

I erred..His boot is probably at least one size up from that so 10.75 for a consumer chart "expert".....which he is likely beyond anyway making 11+ still logical. Someone posted markers chart here > http://www.callisto.si.usherb.ca/~lacurve/html_gen/din.html . The factory reps will tell you that the consumer chart considers the actual real definition of Level 3 "able to ski blacks". Why? Because they know someone who can barely ski a black is gonna show up at the ski shop and say they're a level 3 "expert". An agressive expert (skis high speed on blacks) should add yet another column and a racer should add another column again for SL/GS and another yet another column again for DH/SG. So..if you have DH race boards your Din would actually be a whopping 5 columns down from novice. Ever notice that more often than not.. when a WC racer wipes their skis DO come off...and at WC level bindings are often cranked even further than the factory rep quoted guidelines I just eluded to. Most ski shops will crank up your din for free if you're a customer of theres. I wouldn't expect a charge of much more than $5-$10 for a full binding check and din crank. It's a 2 minute task for a pro being super carefull. :beer:

DUDE You're reading the chart wrong, river should not be a 10.25, read your own chart again, he would be in row N, column 6, otherwise an 8.25, almost exactly what his binding should have been on. Suggesting that someone should have a DIN of 10.75 is somewhat ridiculous, thats basically little to no release, it would take a big shit eating fall for your ski to come off. If I were steve, I'd rather have a broken arm than a broken leg/torn ACL. Skiing inherently has risk involved and part of that is the release points of your skis, if you don't want your skis to release, why even make releasable bindings, oh wait because its safer. Honestly, any information here that says non super human people should have DINS above 10 is probably wrong for the average person.

PS Get better river, snorkelesque powder awaits

 

[JimG.]

Get better fast Steve...I'm counting on you to show me around in Feb during the Cannon/AZ meet up day.

 

[Greg]

http://www.callisto.si.usherb.ca/~lacurve/html_gen/din.html

DUDE You're reading the chart wrong, river should not be a 10.25, read your own chart again, he would be in row N, column 6, otherwise an 8.25, almost exactly what his binding should have been on.

Yes. Steve is in Row N (DIN - 8.25 - 10), at least according to this particular chart. Without knowing his boot sole length, it's difficult to specify the correct DIN.

Question: Are DIN settings universal across numerous binding brands/types?

 

[ctenidae]

DIN is standard, no matter the make of binding- it's a standard set by some German authority. Basically, for any DIN setting x, it takes y amount of force to release, no matter what brand of binding.

Good luck, Steve- heal fast, there's lots of snow out there.

 

[AdironRider]

I broke my wrist real good in the park at Whiteface and was out the next weekend. Get a cast and keep within you limits. I got damn good a carving thats for sure.

 

[LVNLARG]

Furthermore...I just looked at a chart and from what a can tell...you have your bindings set for a fresh out of the gate ...bunny hill...NOVICE. If you boot size is a group 3 and you're an expert skier your Din should actually be 11.25 I totally don't follow this binding din vs ski breaking logic either. If a skis gonna break...it's gonna break....din has no bearing on that. :blink:

Hey, lvnlarg wheres a din chart, I cant find one. I think I need to get both my skis din jumped up this year, how much would that cost anyway?

I erred..His boot is probably at least one size up from that so 10.75 for a consumer chart "expert".....which he is likely beyond anyway making 11+ still logical. Someone posted markers chart here > http://www.callisto.si.usherb.ca/~lacurve/html_gen/din.html . The factory reps will tell you that the consumer chart considers the actual real definition of Level 3 "able to ski blacks". Why? Because they know someone who can barely ski a black is gonna show up at the ski shop and say they're a level 3 "expert". An agressive expert (skis high speed on blacks) should add yet another column and a racer should add another column again for SL/GS and another yet another column again for DH/SG. So..if you have DH race boards your Din would actually be a whopping 5 columns down from novice. Ever notice that more often than not.. when a WC racer wipes their skis DO come off...and at WC level bindings are often cranked even further than the factory rep quoted guidelines I just eluded to. Most ski shops will crank up your din for free if you're a customer of theres. I wouldn't expect a charge of much more than $5-$10 for a full binding check and din crank. It's a 2 minute task for a pro being super carefull. :beer:

DUDE You're reading the chart wrong, river should not be a 10.25, read your own chart again, he would be in row N, column 6, otherwise an 8.25, almost exactly what his binding should have been on. Suggesting that someone should have a DIN of 10.75 is somewhat ridiculous, thats basically little to no release, it would take a big shit eating fall for your ski to come off. If I were steve, I'd rather have a broken arm than a broken leg/torn ACL. Skiing inherently has risk involved and part of that is the release points of your skis, if you don't want your skis to release, why even make releasable bindings, oh wait because its safer. Honestly, any information here that says non super human people should have DINS above 10 is probably wrong for the average person.

PS Get better river, snorkelesque powder awaits

So you're telling me he's an intermediate with size 14 feet ? :blink:

 

[Greg]

So you're telling me he's an intermediate with size 14 feet ? :blink:

What is the matter with you? Based on height/weight, Steve starts at Row L. Add two rows for a Type III skier and you're at Row N. Based on his boot sole length, 8.25 - 10 (far from the "at least 11" you suggested). Sheesh. How hard is this? :roll:

 

[LVNLARG]

So you're telling me he's an intermediate with size 14 feet ? :blink:

What is the matter with you? Based on height/weight, Steve starts at Row L. Add two rows for a Type III skier and you're at Row N. Based on his boot sole length, 8.25 - 10 (far from the "at least 11" you suggested). Sheesh. How hard is this? :roll:

What's the matter with you ? He said he's 210 lbs...with gear on well over that. Weight trumps height. I don't even know why they put height in there as it's to be ignored when superceeded by weight. Weight has been the basis for Din since the beginning of the standard. He is most likely a level 4 power skier therefore the last thing in the world you want to do is bing his weight down a notch to fit him in at the top of a broad weight category on a level 3 rating. Do something like that and someone's likely to get a pre-release and break an arm...jeeesh. :blink:

 

[bigbog]

........

Sorry to hear bout' that Steve. A little more time for core exercises, balance, & flexibility....and then...step up the DIN a bit..y/n?!

 

[Greg]

What's the matter with you ? He said he's 210 lbs...with gear on well over that. Weight trumps height. I don't even know why they put height in there as it's to be ignored when superceeded by weight. Weight has been the basis for Din since the beginning of the standard. He is most likely a level 4 power skier therefore the last thing in the world you want to do is bing his weight down a notch to fit him in at the top of a broad weight category on a level 3 rating.

Find Release Code (letter A - O) which corresponds to skier weight and find Release Code which corresponds to skier height. If not the same, choose the one closer to the top of the chart. For example if skier weight is 175 lb. (L) and height is 5'7" (K), choose code K as the correct line of chart.

You referenced a chart and then altered the "instructions" to fit your own interpretation.

Do something like that and someone's likely to get a pre-release and break an arm...jeeesh. :blink:

No need to be condescending... :roll: