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MTB - Tire & Slippage Question.. s...

Trev

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Ok,

New to biking so my knowledge here is pathetic. That said, I think I have identified the cause of my problem and I am looking for some advice and/or direction.

Reading reviews of the bike prior to buying, quotes like " super grip tires even in the mud, I never slip " and I am thinking to myself.. your riding on muddy pavement.. rofl..

I have an 08 Specialized Rockhopper Pro Disk, stock tires and I think they are the 'slick' version of tires... sorry.. bike is not where I am so I am not 100% sure.

Anyhow, I slip and loose traction all the freaking time in any wetness at all. Now, riding with the gang down at Waldo a week ago I found myself slipping all over the place and the guys.. traveling on without half as much slippage.

My rear tire fills with gunk.. and turns into a tractionless tire in moments -- if any mud/wet stuff.

By boss and another rider from work told me to keep my tire pressure at 55Lbs... "all the time" and these guys jam.. I mean.. jam jam and have years in the sport. So, I listened to them.

I get the distinct impression I should lower my tire pressure for a bit more grip.. perhaps to 40-45... I weight 200Lbs... 5'11" I would call myself Average for build.

Personally I think I need a rear tire that has some bigger knobs on it with a bit more spacing on them as well.

Example: riding with WoodCore on Monday at Nass, I slip all over the place on these roots. Back tire will go for 6"-1ft slide on corners.. etc..

Yes I am sitting on my seat and trying to stay over the bike for more traction too. I am trying very hard to not lean at all on corners, to the point it feels like I am way over compensating....

Thoughts, theories... suggestions..

Thanks in advance...
 

o3jeff

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The original tire on my bike sucked and would slip and slide out from under me on all the roots at Nass. Ended up getting a pair of WTB Moto Raptors and they are a lot better, but will still slip around some and they are ok as far as self cleaning the mud out. Greg has the Kendas and when we stopped to break at Waldo last weekend I noticed that they seemed to clear the mud out better then my tires.

As far as pressure, 50 lbs is way too high and will probably cause any tire to slip a lot. I am 180lbs and am running 38 lbs and will probably drop it to 35-36 next ride.
 

bvibert

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55 PSI is way to high, IMHO. I ride at 40 PSI and I'm a lot heavier than you. I'd run lower, but then I get pinch flats all the time. Start by lowering your pressure and go from there.
 

MR. evil

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Like the others have said, 55 psi is WAY to high. I am about 190 and running my tires around 33 to 35psi and I plan on trying a bit lower. But I also run a tubeless setup and don't have to worry about pinch flats. Better tires will help with grip, but they are also a very personal choice. For instance many people think that the Kenda Nevegals are the bomb, while many think they are way over rated. I have some friends that swear by Nevegals, and others that hate them. Who do I listen to? Its something you just have to experiment with for yourself.

Another thing to consider if that grippier tires are usually made from a softer rubber that wears much faster. This means if you ride alot you will be replacing your tires frequently. I know people that will go through 2 to 3 sets of Nevegals in a season. Thats about $160 to $240 in tires alone for the season.
 

Trev

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The original tire on my bike sucked and would slip and slide out from under me on all the roots at Nass. Ended up getting a pair of WTB Moto Raptors and they are a lot better, but will still slip around some and they are ok as far as self cleaning the mud out. Greg has the Kendas and when we stopped to break at Waldo last weekend I noticed that they seemed to clear the mud out better then my tires.

Umm.. yea.. his tires where like clean... I noticed that as well and when I looked at mine I noticed they where caked full up dirt/mud/stuffage and I had nothing helping with traction at all.

Will lower the psi for my next rides.. and perhaps start seriously considering new tires...
 

Greg

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The stock Bontys on my Trek were horrible. I replaced with Moto Raptors and have since replaced those with the Nevegals. I don't think the Neves give me any better traction, but they shed mud way better than the Moto Raptors and have way better edge grip while cornering. At around $35 each, not a cheap tire, but I would recommend them. I haven't noticed any appreciable wear (I run full Stick-E compound) after 120+ miles, so unless you're riding over a thousand miles a season, I think you can get away with one set per season.
 

big oz

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I run 55-60 during the dry conditions, but i also want minimal rolling resistance and run 2.1 tires with micro knobs (Race Kings) I might go down to mid 40s if its slick, but if that's the case i will just wait til it drys out. If you don't have the skills yet look into a 2.3 with a wide open, blocky style knob. Running a larger tire will allow you to get more of a squish factor without pinch flats....plus you will have more contact area. If you want to run less than say 37 psi, i would look into doing a Stan's no tube conversion with some UST specific tires....this way you can even get into the low thirtys without flatting. But most important is picking better lines and developing some good body English for those up and overs. Use momentum and a lttle higher gear to get up short rooty sections and avoid approaching roots in a parralel fashion.
 

Trev

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I run 55-60 during the dry conditions, but i also want minimal rolling resistance and run 2.1 tires with micro knobs (Race Kings) I might go down to mid 40s if its slick, but if that's the case i will just wait til it drys out. If you don't have the skills yet look into a 2.3 with a wide open, blocky style knob. Running a larger tire will allow you to get more of a squish factor without pinch flats....plus you will have more contact area. If you want to run less than say 37 psi, i would look into doing a Stan's no tube conversion with some UST specific tires....this way you can even get into the low thirtys without flatting. But most important is picking better lines and developing some good body English for those up and overs. Use momentum and a lttle higher gear to get up short rooty sections and avoid approaching roots in a parralel fashion.

Thanks for the info... everyone..

It isn't necessarily the up and overs as I will unweight the back end to compensate and try to hit them head on where possible. Its mostly the twisties with tons of roots.. if I am not perfectly upright -- meaning I have to slow down tremendously -- bottoms out. Yea the up and overs too but, I can manage them a bit better recently..

Again - I am new soo every bit of info I am trying to absorb here and me thinking I am doing something correct.. well.. I could be doing totally wrong... I can take constructive criticism :) I welcome it.. I'll get arrogant when I know wtf I am talking about, that might take a while.. lol..

Regarding gears, I am managing to stay in the middle front for most all of my riding now.. well.. recent riding :) heh.

Thanks again for the tips...
 

Trev

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I don't think the Neves give me any better traction, but they shed mud way better than the Moto Raptors and have way better edge grip while cornering. At around $35 each, not a cheap tire, but I would recommend them. I haven't noticed any appreciable wear (I run full Stick-E compound) after 120+ miles, so unless you're riding over a thousand miles a season, I think you can get away with one set per season.

Are they available at local bike shops ? or do I need on-line ordering?
 

MR. evil

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Are they available at local bike shops ? or do I need on-line ordering?

Pretty much every bike shop I have been to carries Kenda Nevegals. But a bike shop may not have the size you want in stock. An LBS will also be more expensive than online, but weight in shipping and it might be close.
 

JD

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In my experience tire tread makes some difference in handleing but a better tire isn't going to magically change the way you ride. I think the majority of your problem is technique. When under power or climbing, you are basically driving the back tire. Pedaling around on rolling single track, I would concentrate on controling the track of the rear wheel and realize that if you clip a slippery root it can send you into a slide. Tire pressure seems a bit excessive to me as well, but if you run skinny tires on a full suspension bike where it is mostly buff singletrack, it could work for you. Be smooth with the power and try climbing in a slightly harder gear, less torque, less chance of spinning the rear wheel. Larger spaced lugs will clear mud easier as well.....
 

eatskisleep

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I was running 8psi the other day at Lynn woods and Bruce and Toms with Austin in the rain. Pretty much all slick rock and roots. Perfect traction. You just need to pick a smooth line and not ride like an idiot or you might have some problems. Rear tire was pretty bald too.
 
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bvibert

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I just got some 26x2.00 Specialized The Captain tires. I'm looking forward to trying them out. Hopefully the sidewalls hold up better than my last Specialized tires. The traction should be much better than the Fast Trak I had before.
 

MR. evil

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I just got some 26x2.00 Specialized The Captain tires. I'm looking forward to trying them out. Hopefully the sidewalls hold up better than my last Specialized tires. The traction should be much better than the Fast Trak I had before.

Are the 2.0's kind of small? I have been using some Spesh 2.3's and they seem much smaller than my old WTB 2.25 MotoRaptors which were not that big in the first place
 

bvibert

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It's what they had, and also what they replaced, so I'm not complaining considering my out of pocket expense. I put one on the rear, it seems like it might be a bit lower volume than the Fast Trak I had on there last (the latest to get a hole in the sidewall).
 

Trev

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Well,

I picked up a Kenda Nevegal 2.35.. give her a test out later this week.
 
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o3jeff

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Well,

I picked up a Kenda Nevegal 2.35.. give her a test out later this week.

Those should definitely help you out. Did you put them on yet, I am curious if they clear the frame in the back.

On my bike I went with 2.25, I think I would have clearance issues if I went bigger.
 
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Trev

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Those should definitely help you out. Did you put them on yet, I am curious if they clear the frame in the back.

On my bike I went with 2.25, I think I would have clearance issues if I went bigger.

Umm.. hrmm.. well I am soo glad that I am this naive with mountain biking that I would not even think to consider that.

I'll let you know in a couple of hours, I am going to throw that mud slinger on tonight..

I am lucky I can get through the day... lol...
 

Trev

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You riding anywhere tonight? I am thinking about maybe going somewhere.

Thanks for asking, no though. My leg is still very swollen and pretty, well, muffed up, might try to get something going Thurs or Fri afternoon + this weekend.


Tire fit !
 
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