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Taos Ski Valley, NM 1/20-22

takeahike46er

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When I planned for the trip to Taos in early December, I was hoping for conditions like these: Corner Trees > North Face

What I got was a substantially below normal base and barely an inch of snow in the past week or so. In spite of the less than desirable conditions, I was extremely impressed at how well the mountain skied. Great snow preservation and limited access to parts of the mountain goes a long way. My first time visiting Taos was a blast, and it certainly lived up to its slogan, "Taos: a four letter word for steep". I would love to return someday when conditions are more favorable.

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Taos Ski Valley has an old-school feel. There is limited on-site lodging, no grooming on black terrain, and the best runs require a 10 - 45 minute hike. The facilities at the mountain are utilitarian, and the lifts are old and slow. The mountain only started allowing snowboarders as recently as 2008.

The three days spent skiing were sunny with generally fast conditions. The only exception was the Highline Ridge where the snow was soft and refreshed with windblown snow off of the ridge above.

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While the hike-to terrain yielded the best snow, you had to work for it. At 12,000 feet, it was easy to get winded even if the hike was only a couple hundred vertical feet. I took three runs off of the Highline Ridge each day. Most of my runs were down Juarez because I was skiing by myself, and I was advised that it wouldn't have been smart to ski solo down the more remote terrain.

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A few times, I was able to join up with some groups and ski further out along the ridge-- specifically Corner Chute and Two Bucks. Both runs started wide and then funneled into some open glades. There was some untracked snow off of the top with soft, packed snow further down chutes.

There were bumps to be found all over the mountain, and even the blue runs had some bumps left ungroomed on the side. This was no Gore or Whiteface! Of the lift served terrain, my favorite was Lorelei-- a series of steep mogul fields punctuated with glades that softened nicely with the morning sun.

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I tended to avoid the parts of the mountain that were in a perpetual shadow-- notably the lower main face above the base. The fast snow, flat lighting and massive moguls made it extremely challenging for someone with my skill set. I took one run and that was enough for me! Aside from the steeper chutes along the ridge, this is the part of the mountain that could have benefitted the most from some fresh snow.

While my ski trip to Taos wasn't ideal, I tried to make the best of my time there and enjoy my first trip to New Mexico. The people were extremely friendly, the food was delicious, and the surroundings were beautiful. Plus, the trip was extremely affordable. I'd like to go back-- I just wouldn't book the trip so far in advance.

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Angus

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skied there 2 days a few years back (2008) - had a great time, thought the mountain was great and you're right about bumps - really big. I'm surprised the mountain skied so well given the lack of snow this season. Have also skied Santa Fe ski basin which is great place too - definitely not a destination but a nice place to ski if coming/going to Taos.

I posted pictures in my gallery of some of the stuff we skied - nothing that you had to hike too.
 

snoseek

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Nice report, thanks.

Definately is top five favorites. It is soooo steep, huge but somehow skiable bumps. That lower front side is definately worth spending some time next time assuming the snow is better. The things I love about Taos is when it's not snowing the sun is brilliant, like a whole different kind of brilliant. It reminds me a lot of alta 20 years ago but quite a bit steeper and less snow. The place overall is steep as f^%, wouldn't you say?
 

Bumpsis

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Great pictures. It brought some nice memories. Taos is definitely one of my top favorites.
I just love how skiing there recalibrates your sense of what steep is.

One year after a trip to Taos, I dragged my wife up to Tuckerman's which she then really enjoyed. Prior to our Taos trip she would always sit out the bowl experience, thinking that it was just too steep.
It's amazing what a bit of cornice jumping and hitting a few couloirs will do for your confidence.
 

takeahike46er

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I just love how skiing there recalibrates your sense of what steep is.

I concur.

I'll never forget my first warm-up run on a single black before starting to tackle the many double diamonds runs that blanket the mountain. I had the mentality of a Whiteface or Mad River Glen skier-- where double diamonds are used sparingly or not at all. So when I pulled up to the lip and was like "WTF", I knew that the doubles were going to be intense. Anything that I have skied since returning to the east has been a breeze!

What amazing terrain they have there! Surprised more people don't make it down there, especially given the reputation the place has amongst expert skiers.
 
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thetrailboss

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I concur.

I'll never forget my first warm-up run on a single black before starting to tackle the many double diamonds runs that blanket the mountain. I had the mentality of a Whiteface or Mad River Glen skier-- where double diamonds are used sparingly or not at all. So when I pulled up to the lip and was like "WTF", I knew that the doubles were going to be intense. Anything that I have skied since returning to the east has been a breeze!

What amazing terrain they have there! Surprised more people don't make it down there, especially given the reputation the place has amongst expert skiers.

Same here. Looking at the single and double black diamond terrain at Squaw last year and seeing signs that said "Danger: Cliff" really woke me up. When they say cliff, they mean it!
 

Cannonball

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When I planned for the trip to Taos in early December, I was hoping for conditions like these: Corner Trees > North Face

What I got was a substantially below normal base and barely an inch of snow in the past week or so. In spite of the less than desirable conditions, I was extremely impressed at how well the mountain skied. Great snow preservation and limited access to parts of the mountain goes a long way. My first time visiting Taos was a blast, and it certainly lived up to its slogan, "Taos: a four letter word for steep". I would love to return someday when conditions are more favorable.

This is a great trip report. It's cool that you made the most of less-than-ideal conditions and had an excellent time. You have a great attitude. Part of that must come from being an east coast skier. Our ability to enjoy absolutely any conditions is pretty cool. Some friends and I were recently laughing about a Snowbird trip where the skiing seemed amazing until a patrolman mentioned that they were about to close the area due to ice and lack of cover!!

I had a similar day at Taos years ago. Actually I should write up that story someday (complete with midnight hitchhiking, visits to stranger's homes, and great skiing).

But despite all of that, I have to say, I came away from that trip realizing that I would never book a ski trip to Taos. Its isolation from other areas and its desert locale makes it extremely hit-or-miss as a destination resort. I love that area and could see being a local for everything else it has to offer while catching the good days on the mountain. But I'd always book SLC, Summit County, or some of the others if I want a reliable ski trip.
 
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takeahike46er

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Agree that there are much better options for a destination resort if deep, untracked powder is the impetus for booking a trip. With that being said, the combination of its fantastic terrain, scenery, sunshine, and the totally unique town of Taos makes up for the paltry 300" of bone-dry snow it receives a year. It's definitely worth a visit... or two.
 
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