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The Long Trail Sept 27 - Oct 10, 2009

skibum9995

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
667
Points
0
Location
Hooksett, NH
Long overdue TR

Date(s) Hiked: Sept 27 - Oct 10, 2009

Trails(s) Hiked: Appalachian Trail, Long Trail, Journeys End Trail

Total Distance: 272.7 mi

Difficulty: Difficult

Conditions: Very Wet

Special Required Equipment: dry socks

Trip Report:

WARNING: LONG

Day 1 - Sherman Brook Campsite to Goddard Shelter, 26.8 mi
I hiked 1.4 mi into the Sherman Brook Campsite after getting out of work yesterday to get an early start today. I woke up around 5:00 to light rain and decided to pack up and get goingt with hopes of the sun coming out and taking a long break to dry out my wet gear. I broke camp leisurely, and hit the trail just after 6:00 under headlamp. I made my way up to the MA/VT border and the southern terminus of the Long Trail. I stopped just long enough to get a picture and stepped into Vermont at 7:09. The rain continued throughout the morning, but eventually tapered off about 10:00. The first miles of the LT are pretty mellow and I cruised over the small climbs. I stopped for lunch at Congdon Shelter a bit before 11:00 nad headed out after an attempt to dry my feet out. After a quick climb up to Harmon Hill came the steep decent down to Rt 9, and then the sep ascent back up the other side. I was planning on stopping at Melville Nauheim Shelter for the night, but it was only a little past 2:00 so I decided to go the extra 8.5 mi to Goddard Shelter. The rain started back up as I had a quick snack and refilled my water, so I hit the trail. As I got closer to the shelter I slowed down more and more and was happy to finally see it through the mist at around 5:30. There were a few AT hikers already there who made some room for me.

Day 2 - Goddard Shelter to Stratton Pond Shelter, 19.4 mi
I was on the trail just after 7:00 and made the short climb up to the fire tower on Glastenbury Mt. There was no view so I didn’t bother stopping and cruised the easy stretch to Kid Gore Shelter. I made the climb up to Lydia’s Rest and on the Story Spring Shelter for lunch. As I was getting to the shelter the sun started to come out so I put my shoes and socks out while I ate. The sun didn’t last long and nothing really dried any. From the shelter it’s a pretty easy 3.6 mi to the Stratton-Arlington Rd where I began the climb up Stratton Mt. I really enjoy this climb because it starts of real gradual and is graded nice all the way to the top. I was able to make good time up it, but I could see a storm rolling in so I took off for the shelter in an attempt to stay dry. It’s 3 mi mostly downhill and I was pushing hard to beat the rain but it started p about 10 minutes before I made it in. It wasn’t that bad and I was able to dry out quickly. Stratton Pond is a nice shelter with lots of space. I’m sharing it with Keith, an AT Sobo, and Odysseus, an AT Nobo. After eating my dinner of Ramen Noodles the caretaker came over to chat and collect the $5 for this shelter.

Day 3 - Stratton Pond Shelter to Lost Pond Shelter, 25.1 mi
Woke up to dry skies and was hiking by 6:30, hoping to make good time to Bromley over some easy terrain. The first few miles were pretty muddy, but I managed to keep a good pace. It was a nice walk to Spruce Peak and the trail was dry making it even better. Just after the shelter I saw a bear cub off to the side of the trail running away. I made the annoying little climb up to the road, crossed it, and started the climb up Bromley. I stopped at the shelter for lunch and water. It was looking like rain so I made the final push to the summit where there were limited views and then down to Mad Tom Notch where it started to rain. I’ve never really been a fan of the next 5 miles and this time was no exception. It always seems to be wet when I’m here and I had to keep moving just to stay warm. After the climb and tedious ridgewalk I stopped at Peru Peak Shelter for a snack break and headed back out into the rain for the last part of the day. The rain increased in intensity and I was soaked by the time I got to Baker Peak. When I finally made it to the shelter I ate and tried to dry out and warm up but it wasn’t happening. I ended up wearing most of my clothes in my sleeping bag and finally got comfortable.

Day 4 - Lost Pond Shelter to Clarendon Shelter, 18.6 mi
After a damp night, the morning was pretty chilly, and I was sluggish getting going. It started to rain just as I was about to hike out so I hung out for a bit longer and ate my breakfast at the shelter. I was ready to go, but getting cold so I put my shell and gloves on and took off. The stopped shortly after and I enjoyed the easy hike to Little Rock Pond. I stopped at the FS 10 crossing to hit the privy before heading up to the pond. The climb up to White Rocks Mt wasn’t bad but there was a cool breeze along the ridge. I descended to VT 140 where I air out my feet and ate lunch in the empty parking lot. I enjoyed the climb up Bear Mt and the gentle terrain to Minerva Hinchey Shelter. Just after the shelter there was a short but steep climb and then more ridgewalking to the Airport Lookout where I stopped to take some pictures. The steep decent to Clarendon Gorge was slick in places and I nearly crashed a couple of times but made it down without incident. After crossing the road the trail climbs super steeply for a short bit before some bumps before a quick drop down to the Clarendon Shelter. I met an AT Sobo who somehow missed Rt 4 and was heading into Rutland from 103. I had the shelter to myself for the second night in a row.

Day 5 - Clarendon Shelter to he Inn at Long Trail, 16.4 mi
I was able to get a pretty decent start this morning with the thought of food from the Inn filling my thoughts. The day started with a climb up to Beacon Hill, then it was generally pretty level to Governor Clement Shelter. I stopped at the shelter, which currently has no floor, for a quick break before starting the climb up Killington. As I was leaving I heard what I thought was rain in the leaves but the only thing that seemed to be falling was not rain. My pack was getting wet spots on it though so I figured the rain was light enough to not notice it falling. The climb starts out fairly gentle and winds its way through the forest, climbing gradually. At one point I realized that it wasn’t raining after all, and the weird stuff falling from the sky was actually snow. Once I realized what was happening I got super excited and felt and extra shot of energy. The snow started sticking to vegetation and then to the ground as I gained elevation. I stopped at Cooper Lodge for lunch and the snow was blowing in the windows. It was cold, probably around 28 or so, so I put my jacket on and didn’t take it off when I left the shelter and headed off across the ridge towards Pico. The hike down to Rt 4 went by quickly, as the food and shower awaiting me drove me on. I saw a moose right in the trail about 20 yards in front of me about a mile and a half from the road. Once I hit the road I did the mile long road walk up to the Inn where I got a room, picked up a mail drop, showered, and headed to the pub for food and some beers. I met a few hikers, but none were planning on doing anywhere near the mileage I was planning. Looks like this is going to be a lonely hike.

Day 6 - The Inn at Long Trail to Sucker Brook Shelter, 25.3 mi
I got up at 6:30, packed up and headed downstairs for the free breakfast just after 7:00. After eating a great breakfast, I walked back to the trail and started later than I would have liked at 8:45, but the breakfast was worth it. The small climb up to Maine Junction was the last bit of the Long Trail I had hiked before, except for a couple of short sections up north. I stopped for water at Rolston Rest Shelter after navigating across numerous logging roads. At this point I was feeling the effects of drinking too much the night before and I didn’t feel all that great. I was not making great time and I was getting discouraged with myself. Just past the David Logan Shelter I realized that I had some Advil in my pack so I stopped for a snack and popped a couple Advil. I felt much better after and started pushing to make up some time. There were a few small climbs, but nothing crazy and I made it into Sunrise Shelter shortly after the rain started up. I had another snack and then jogged most of the down to Brandon Gap. I was dreading the climb up out of the gap but it turned out to not be all that bad. At this point it was starting to get dark so I wanted to cover as much terrain as possible before pulling out the headlamp. Once I finally put it on it was hard to see much more than a few feet in front of me due to the thick fog and light rain. I made it to the shelter at 7:10 to find it occupied with a bunch of students from Middlebury College who were very nice. The made a spot for me and even gave me the leftovers from a pasta dinner.

Day 7 - Sucker Brook Shelter to Cooley Glen Shelter, 17.1 mi
I woke up to yet more rain and had no motivation to get moving. I finally started hiking and made the climb up to Worth Mt and then down over the Middlebury Snow Bowl. By the time I got to Middlebury Gap I was soaked and spent a lot of time thinking about quitting and going home. I had lunch at Boyce Shelter and then made my way across the ridge, over Breadloaf Mt, Mt Wilson, and a bunch of PUDs, before the short decent to the shelter. I hiked down a side trail to the spring and then got back to the shelter, took my wet shoes and socks off, ate dinner, and that made me feel a lot better about my hike. I knew in the back of my head quitting was not really an option, and that I would be mad at myself if I did.
 

skibum9995

New member
Joined
Jan 28, 2006
Messages
667
Points
0
Location
Hooksett, NH
Continued

Day 8 - Cooley Glen Shelter to Birch Glen Camp, 18.9 mi
I was motivated for a good start today by plans to meet my parents and grandparents at App Gap. I woke up at various points in the night and noticed that the moon was pretty bright and that I hadn’t noticed the brightness any other night. It wasn’t until I was packing up that I realized that if I could see the moon it was clear, and that it would be sunny. Not long after leaving the shelter I saw signs of the sunrise through the trees and got a great view from Mt Grant. It was an amazing undercast with all the valleys filled with clouds and the mountain peaks sticking up through it all. I enjoyed another great view from Sunset Ledge. When I came out onto the road at Lincoln Gap there were a bunch of people around. I passed 10 or 15 in the first half mile of the climb. I stopped at Battell Shelter to clean the lens of my camera and use the privy before the final bit up to Mt Abraham. On the summit I was treated to the best view of the trip so far. I chatted with Adam, the caretaker for a bit then headed of towards Mt Ellen, where I had more great views. By the time I got to General Stark Mt and the top of the Single at Mad River Glen I was ready to be at the gap and eating lunch in Waitsfield. There were masses of people on the summit who rode the chair up. I quickly crossed and got back into the woods as quick as I could. The further I went, the less people there were. The decent got pretty crazy at times and I was moving slow for a lot of it but I made it to App Gap a bit before 2:30 where I was met as planned. I took my wet footwear off and we headed to town to eat. I changed into some clean clothes and left my shoes on the roof of the car to dry out a bit. After a great meal it was back to the trail. It started to rain on the way back, so I waited in the car for a bit because it looked like it was just going to be a quick shower. It was and I headed off after it passed. It was a short 2.6 mi to Birch Glen Camp and I made it there about 6:00. I came across a porcupine in the trail who didn’t seem to want to move out of the way until I was just a few feet away, banging my poles. The only other hiker here is Cookie, who also hiked the AT last year. The mice were very active, the first time I have heard mice this trip. I got up to make sure all my gear was secured out of the reach of the mice.

Day 9 - Birch Glen Camp to Duck Brook Shelter, 21.0 mi
I had a nice leisurely morning talking with Cookie, then hit the trail about 8:00. The first few miles to Cowles Cove Shelter were very nice. The tread was smooth and the terrain was never anywhere near steep. After the shelter the trail started to get interesting. The climb up and decent off Burnt Rock were both pretty nasty. The rain didn’t help and all the rock was super slippery. I was moving at a very slow pace and was still slipping a lot. I felt like I was ice skating. At this point I figured that I had no chance of making my planned mileage before dark. The terrain mellowed out eventually after what seemed like forever and I started pushing in an attempt to make up some time. I made good time over Mt Ethan Allen and up the first part of Camels Hump but the climb got very steep and I slowed down. Just as I got to treeline it started to rain so I stopped to put my rain shell on headed on. It soon was hailing and a bit windy. The was nobody else up on the summit, I had it entirely to myself, an unexpected surprise. The hail stopped shortly after I made it back below treeline and the sun followed a few minutes later. The decent down to Duxbury road was slick in spots, but not steep. It hailed a few different times on the way down, only for a minute or two each time and I also saw a rainbow. The rain strted back up about two miles before the road and it got windy. I saw soon soaked and nearly jogging to get to the road. The rain stopped before I hit pavement and the roadwalk was done dry. It was easy walking, which was nice, but pavement is hard on the feet, and boring. I left the roads behind and began a steep ascent under power lines, then back into the woods to Duck Brook Shelter. The only other hiker here is D12. I made the seep trek down to the water and got back under the roof just before it started raining again.

Day 10 - Duck Brook Shelter to Butler Lodge, 16.5 mi
I got a pretty decent start today knowing that the day started with 9 miles mostly all uphill to Bolton Mt. I hit the trail ready to climb and made good time to Bolton Notch Road, where a navigational snafu had me off course for a bit. I missed where the trail turned right and dropped down to cross a brook before crossing the road. I was focused on the road and followed a herd path about 100 yards too far and came out up the road. There were some rock climbers gearing up who pointed me in the right direction, and I resumed the climb. The upper part was all eroded and had lots of water flowing down it, making it impossible to keep my feet out of the water. I stopped at Puffer Shelter for lunch and to grab some water before the decent into Nebraska Notch. The decent had steep ledgy sections and a bunch of small PUDs at the bottom, so I was happy to start the climb up the other side. Once I reached the Twin Brooks Tenting Area I knew Iwas almost to Butler Lodge and got a burst of energy and pounded out the climb like it was nothing. Its just me and the caretaker here tonight. Got a decent, partially obscured, sunset over Lake Champlain.

Day 11 Butler Lodge to Bear Hollow Shelter, 16.1 mi
I woke up to a downpour so I went back to sleep for a bit and got a late start. The stream that is the watersource was running very high, I almost had to ford it, and the spur back to the Long Trail was a stream. The trail climbing up the Forehead was just as bad. It was like climbing a waterfall in places. It had stopped raining by the time I got up to the ridge, but the trail and the vegetation along it were soaked. Hiking along the ridge the wind was strong, but the clouds were blowing out, offering limited views on and off. I didn’t see anyone else along the entire ridge and made my way down to Smugglers Notch. The sun was starting to come out as I got down to the picnic area, so I decided to stop for lunch and let my feet dry out a bit. I put my pack down at a picnic table and went to the bathroom and by the time I came back it was starting to rain. I got my pack and sat under the overhang of the bathroom to eat my lunch as a thunder storm passed. When the storm was over I headed out to find the stream before the start of the climb well over its banks and about knee deep. The was a downed tree that spanned most of the stream about 20 yards away so I went down to it, made my way to the end, and then jumped as far as I could and barely made it to the other side without falling in. The climb started out pretty steep but the grade lessened a bit as it climbed higher. The hike to Sterling Pond seemed pretty tedious to me, probably due to the weather conditions. I took a quick snack break at the shelter then pushed on over Madonna Peak, where I lost my footing descending on the ski trail and butt slid a little bit before coming to a stop. I got even wetter, but it was efficient. I powered my way over the last few peaks to Whiteface Shelter and started the steep climb up to the summit. Once over the top it was all downhill to Bear Hollow Shelter where I am staying tonight by myself. The trail smoothed out quite a bit along the decent and was very nice the last mile or two before the shelter.

Day 12 Bear Hollow Shelter to Spruce Ledge Camp, 22.2 mi
I woke up, packed up, and took off for VT15 so I could head into Johnson to pick up my resupply package at the post office. It was great terrain down to the road, nice and smooth, mostly on logging roads. It was nice to not have to watch every step after all the crazy terrain the past few days. When I got to the parking lot I started walking down the road, trying to hitch a ride. There wasn't much traffic, so I walked almost 3/4 mile before getting a ride. The lady working the counter at the post office recognized me as a hiker and grabbed my box while waiting on the person in front of me. It turns out that my box as he last one they have left. On my way out of town I stopped at a gas station to grab some donuts for breakfast and started hitching back to the trail. I got a ride pretty quick and decided to take the high water route back to the trail assuming he river was above flood stage. It ended up being a good decision because the river was flooding and I wouldn't have been able to cross it. I started the short but steep climb up to Prospect Rock with a heavy pack, but I settled into a rythym and made decent time over various small peaks to the base of Laraway Mt where I stopped for lunch in the parking lot. The climb wasn't too bad but seemed to drag a bit near the top. From the summit I made the decent to Corliss Camp, and then over the bumps to Spruce Ledge Shelter where I am staying tonight with Josh, another northbounder.

Day 13 Spruce Ledge Camp to Jay Camp, 20.0 mi
Today started with the Devil’s Gultch, a mini version of Mahoosuc Notch on the AT. It was pretty nasty with everything wet and super slippery. It was short though and after it was a short but steep climb than a fairly nice decent down to VT118. After crossing the road the trail started up Belvidere Mt. This climb was similar to Laraway Mt, starting out on old logging roads, then getting ledgy near the top. The fog was thick at the top so I blew right past the side trail to the fire tower and kept on going. I stopped at Tillotson Camp for lunch. I’m glad to not be sleeping here, lots of trash and evidence of very active mice. After lunch I continued on over Haystack Mt and down to Hazen’s Notch. From this point I was running a little bit behind where I wanted to be so I decided to push hard to make it to Jay Camp at a decent time. I only have one more day so I don’t need to conserve energy for anything other than the climb up Jay Peak first thing in the morning. Once I got into a god rhythm I was able to cruise easily across all the smallish peaks between me and my destination.

Day 14 Jay Camp to Journeys End, 13.0 mi
I awoke to rain for the last time, put cold, wet socks on for the last time, and hiked out and on to Canada. The climb up Jay Peak wasn’t too bad, but it was cold, wet, and windy on the summit and I froze. Once I was back into the trees on the other side I stopped to put more clothes on in an attempt to dry out. From here to the end the climbs became smaller and smaller, and I was pushing for the border. When I crossed VT105 with 2.6 mi left, I stopped to eat all the M&Ms I had left for a last energy boost and took off. I met my parents at the International Boundary at 1:33, stopped for a few pictures, then we headed out the Journeys End Trail to the car. It was nice to wash up and out clean and dry clothes on. It was an awesome experience, just a bit too much rain. I’ll definitely be back on this trail again.
 
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