• Welcome to AlpineZone, the largest online community of skiers and snowboarders in the Northeast!

    You may have to REGISTER before you can post. Registering is FREE, gets rid of the majority of advertisements, and lets you participate in giveaways and other AlpineZone events!

Tuning question

gmcunni

Active member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
11,502
Points
38
Location
CO Front Range
Sorry, not much of a ski gear head and could use some simple advice.

picked up a new pair of Nordica skis in March last season. Skied a few times at the end of the season but no significant base damage was done. For the start of this coming season is wax and sharpen sufficient or should i get the stone grinding done as well?
 

snowmonster

New member
Joined
Jan 2, 2006
Messages
4,066
Points
0
Location
In my mind, northern New England
No need for a stone grind unless the bases are scarred and scratched. Check for burrs or dings on the edges. Check the sharpness of the edges. If they are dull, sharpen them with a file or diamond stone. Wax 'em. Good to go.
 

Puck it

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
9,714
Points
48
Location
Franconia, NH
Different angles = different grip. I think most shaped skis come out 1/2 or 1/3. 1/3 will grip on hard pack just a little better, but a little tougher to engage and will wear quicker iirc.

I use a 1 degree on the base angle and 3 degrees on the edge. The base can be set very easily with a 12" flat mill bastard file. I wrap two thicknesses of masking tape on the file so that rides on one edge while it shrpens the other and then repeat for other edge. For the edge, you will need a edge tool. No way around it. They are about $20. These usually can be set from 0 to 5 degrees. After that simply deburr with a stone and then wax away. I do not kbow what Nordica uses for the factory edges off the top of my head though.
 

thetrailboss

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jun 4, 2004
Messages
33,746
Points
113
Location
NEK by Birth
No need for a stone grind unless the bases are scarred and scratched. Check for burrs or dings on the edges. Check the sharpness of the edges. If they are dull, sharpen them with a file or diamond stone. Wax 'em. Good to go.

+ 1. If you are doing it yourself, just edge and wax. If you are taking it to a shop, it won't hurt to do the SG, but you don't have to.
 

Puck it

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2006
Messages
9,714
Points
48
Location
Franconia, NH
+ 1. If you are doing it yourself, just edge and wax. If you are taking it to a shop, it won't hurt to do the SG, but you don't have to.


Only stone grind when the bases get really scratched up. Stone grinds only decrease the life expectancy of the ski.
 

bigbog

Active member
Joined
Feb 17, 2004
Messages
4,882
Points
38
Location
Bangor and the state's woodlands
Pretty obvious...but,
Get your base/edge surfaces as flat as possible to begin with whether stone-grinding or not. Makes the follow-up of beveling and sharpening results worry-free. Really fill-in anything between base and edge fully...remember once outside everything contracts slightly with cold temps.

$.01
 
Last edited:

andyzee

New member
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Messages
10,884
Points
0
Location
Home
Website
www.nsmountainsports.com
I typically stone grind once a year at the beginning of the season. If you got the skis at the end of last season and bases aren't bad, don't bother.
 

wa-loaf

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Messages
15,109
Points
48
Location
Mordor
I'd just wax and de-burr the edges with diamond stone, unless you are thinking about changing the angles

If the base looks ok outside a few shallow scratches leave it alone. Give it a stone grind mid season. You probably want to stick with the factory angles if you are happy with the skis.

I suggest a 2/0. But that's just me.

Prob not a good idea unless you want to ski bumps and skid on ice.

As long as your bases are flat, you can just sharpen your edges. If they are not flat, get em stone ground flat. I use 1 for base and 3 for the sides. Best tune around is Peak Performance in Killington IMHO.

Best for edge hold, but also wears off faster requiring tunes more often.

I wonder if that's why ski shops push them so heavily. You will
need a new pair of skis sooner.

No I think they just need to pay for the pricey machines and it's a nice mark-up.
 

marcski

Active member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Messages
4,576
Points
36
Location
Westchester County, NY and a Mountain near you!
If the base looks ok outside a few shallow scratches leave it alone. Give it a stone grind mid season. You probably want to stick with the factory angles if you are happy with the skis.



Prob not a good idea unless you want to ski bumps and skid on ice.



Best for edge hold, but also wears off faster requiring tunes more often.



No I think they just need to pay for the pricey machines and it's a nice mark-up.

Well, said...I tend to hold of the stone grinds as much as possible and just put it toward the new ski kiddy!
 

gmcunni

Active member
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
11,502
Points
38
Location
CO Front Range
thanks for all the info. i'll go with wax/sharpen to start the season. hopefully i'll ski enough to warrant a mid-season tuneup and will consider the stone grinding then.
 

RootDKJ

New member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
7,866
Points
0
Location
Summit
Website
phresheez.com
Yarr, it be for scallywags that want to feather thur edges and be quick side-to-side. Scurvy dog bump skiers be the ones to use it. Shiver me timbers.
Well done. Since I don't plan on hitting many bumps, I'll stick with 2/1 or 3/1 if we're in a nasty freeze/thaw pattern.
 

RootDKJ

New member
Joined
Nov 15, 2005
Messages
7,866
Points
0
Location
Summit
Website
phresheez.com
thanks for all the info. i'll go with wax/sharpen to start the season. hopefully i'll ski enough to warrant a mid-season tuneup and will consider the stone grinding then.
No problem. Tuning is a lot of fun, and you get to drink beer while you're at it.
 
Top