Daring to Ice Climb

[robbovious]

Hi folks.

I have gotten it into my head that Ice Climbing is something I want to pursue. I know only the barest minimum about it, to wit:

1. you use Ice axes/tools
2. you wear special boots, with crampons
3. rather than nuts, cams etc, leading is accomplished with ice screws
4. it's like rock climbing in that you wear a harness and have to manage rope, belay, tie knots and the like.
5. where the good ice is, it's pretty fricken cold.

I've been studying the ice climbing sections of FOH so that I can get a better idea of basics.

now, the likelyhood is low that I'll make any attempt to get on the ice this year. my plan is to spend the remaining winter and then spring and summer in educating myself, and aquiring gear, with plans to get on the ice next winter.

of course, I have questions.

1. ice climb ratings. what do they mean? how do the Wx ice grades relate to the 5.x rock grades?

2. what sort of clothing should I be thinking of? I ride motorcycles in the dead of winter, and I snowboard, so I have already a colection of parkas, undergarments, fleece layers goggles, etc, that could be used, but, will ice climbing require other considerations?

3. ice axes/tools? general use? water ice specific, a mix?

4. is it wisest to buy boots and crampons together as a system?

5. harnesses. rock harnesses? BD BOD alpine?

6. ice types. I know what water ice is, it's in my fridge. but, out on the rock?

I know that the answers "Take a class" or "find a guide" are obvious choices, but whether I take one or not doesn't help feed my wanting to know more about ice climbing, right now, and probably wouldn't happen until next winter anyway, even if I did choose to take a class. in the intervening months, I'd like to become somewhat more knowledegable, some what more prepared.

I know that ice climbing is inherently more dangerous than climbing rock. thus do I seek the knowledge of other with experience here.

advice? comments? experiences?

please e-mail me your thoughts directly, I don't want to look like an idiot. and, thanks.

 

[cbcbd]

You want to start out and learn, you are not looking like an idiot - you gotta start somewhere.

You got some good responses to this thread on neclimbs. I don't have much more different stuff to add that they haven't.

If you want to learn about it... honestly, just take a class. I got into it with a two day class and haven't looked back.

Other than that just read books:
How to Ice Climb - by Craig Luebben is a very good one. Get it, it has a lot of good info
Ice & Mixed climbing - by Will Gadd is good
Freedom of the Hills - no brainer, you should just have it already


And in my opinion, the first piece of gear you should/need to buy are the boots - get ones that fit well. You can always rent/borrow ice axes and crampons.

I don't see how climbing ice is much more dangerous than climbing rock - the major difference is that there is just more constant falling debris when climbing ice.
Ice climbing is mostly about reading the ice and energy conservation - read it well in most conditions, use good footwork, and you'll get efficient placements and not need to wack away wasting energy needed to complete a climb. You can only learn about that by actually climbing, no matter how much you read about the different types of ice formations. Just like rock climbing, get out there and climb, and then climb again!

Beware, it's addictive - the ever changing form of ice always keeps you on your toes and a climb that was easy one day can be a nightmare the next... the beauty of ice climbing.

 

[ctenidae]

My advice: Don't fall. f you do, don't fall far.

 

[campgottagopee]

My advice: Don't fall. f you do, don't fall far.

It's not the fall that gets ya; it's the sudden stop that is an issue

 

[ctenidae]

It's not the fall that gets ya; it's the sudden stop that is an issue

True. I don't have a fear of heights. Falling doesn't even bother me. It's the landing that sucks.

 

[Robbovius]

Hi folks.

I have gotten it into my head that Ice Climbing is something I want to pursue. I know only the barest minimum about it, to wit:

1. you use Ice axes/tools
2. you wear special boots, with crampons
3. rather than nuts, cams etc, leading is accomplished with ice screws
4. it's like rock climbing in that you wear a harness and have to manage rope, belay, tie knots and the like.
5. where the good ice is, it's pretty fricken cold.

I've been studying the ice climbing sections of FOH so that I can get a better idea of basics.

now, the likelyhood is low that I'll make any attempt to get on the ice this year. my plan is to spend the remaining winter and then spring and summer in educating myself, and aquiring gear, with plans to get on the ice next winter.

of course, I have questions.

1. ice climb ratings. what do they mean? how do the Wx ice grades relate to the 5.x rock grades?

2. what sort of clothing should I be thinking of? I ride motorcycles in the dead of winter, and I snowboard, so I have already a colection of parkas, undergarments, fleece layers goggles, etc, that could be used, but, will ice climbing require other considerations?

3. ice axes/tools? general use? water ice specific, a mix?

4. is it wisest to buy boots and crampons together as a system?

5. harnesses. rock harnesses? BD BOD alpine?

6. ice types. I know what water ice is, it's in my fridge. but, out on the rock?

I know that the answers "Take a class" or "find a guide" are obvious choices, but whether I take one or not doesn't help feed my wanting to know more about ice climbing, right now, and probably wouldn't happen until next winter anyway, even if I did choose to take a class. in the intervening months, I'd like to become somewhat more knowledegable, some what more prepared.

I know that ice climbing is inherently more dangerous than climbing rock. thus do I seek the knowledge of other with experience here.

advice? comments? experiences?

please e-mail me your thoughts directly, I don't want to look like an idiot. and, thanks.

folks, this guy "robbovious" is a troll, who's been going around to various websites and impersonating me...this makes about the 5th site so far I've had to chase him around to...if you really want to read my OP on NEclimbs - well, minus that last sentence about looking like an idiot, that was his own creative muse there - , go HERE: Robbovius, "Educate teh n00b" on NEclimbs.com

Unlike "robbovious" I am unafraid of posting personal info in my profile, the most extensive profile of which exists on rockclimbing.com, and has, since 2002 (on NEclimbs since 2003).

somehow, he forgets that his IP address identifies him on every site.

Lionel/bristolpipe/piton, buddy, I am flattered that you want to be me SO MUCH, that you would commit multiple instances of identity fraud to achieve that end. but dude, all I gotta do, to find each instance is GOOGLE, okay?

...and, as has been the case over the last two weeks, after pointing out the troll, I'm off to the mods to report it...or maybe not, leaving him up to ridicule has it's own reward I suppose...

hope this anencephalic monster hasn't caused you too much upset.

To anyone who answered the OP seriously, well, thanks, I guess, in an indirect way...I am actually getting into ice climbing, and am studying FOH Ed7 and Craig Leubben's "How To Ice Climb" as well as seeking advice on line.

way to go, piton.

 

[cbcbd]

I've been following some of the stuff from Bristolpipe on neclimbs... sorry, man.

What a f*****ing douchebag... seriously

 

[Robbovius]

I've been following some of the stuff from Bristolpipe on neclimbs... sorry, man.

What a f*****ing douchebag... seriously

ahh no worries. I was kinda having a fit about it yesterday, after he'd linked a picture of my best friend and climbing partner (a woman, though not my GF), onto cascadeclimbers.com - the mods there have since delted his user ID and all his threads/posts) but she gave me a good talking to and I've settled down. ;-) I hope I can work out a trip up north and make good on one of the offers I got to get on the ice up there, before it's off season.

I'm just chillin here watching the snow come down.