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Do you have to readjust when swithching between skis in your quiver?

chadr2

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Sidecut

What you're noticing is the differences in sidecut. A 24 meter turn is much straighter (by 10 meters) than a 14 meter radius. Think of it as a longer set of parantheses (( from the tip of one to the opposite tip is either 14 or 24 meters. If it's longer it will feel more parallel (because it is) and not as nimble in trees, bumps etc. A short radius turn will bring you across the hill farther and feel quicker through tight situations.

I hope that helps.
 

Grassi21

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What you're noticing is the differences in sidecut. A 24 meter turn is much straighter (by 10 meters) than a 14 meter radius. Think of it as a longer set of parantheses (( from the tip of one to the opposite tip is either 14 or 24 meters. If it's longer it will feel more parallel (because it is) and not as nimble in trees, bumps etc. A short radius turn will bring you across the hill farther and feel quicker through tight situations.

I hope that helps.

That makes sense thanks.

What about twin tips vs. a flat tail? Does the twin tip do anything for the turn?
 

tjf67

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That makes sense thanks.

What about twin tips vs. a flat tail? Does the twin tip do anything for the turn?

I dont know about helping in the turns but it sure does help backing out of the woods after a pee break
 

2knees

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twin tips generally ski shorter since less ski is touching the snow.

and they spray the snot out of anyone who happens to be behind you.

i got a face full of snow skiing behind you one run. i forgot how much of a rooster those kick up.
 

Glenn

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That makes sense thanks.

What about twin tips vs. a flat tail? Does the twin tip do anything for the turn?

I find they're much better "wheelie" skis for bare spots and trail puddles. :smile:
 

mondeo

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That makes sense thanks.

What about twin tips vs. a flat tail? Does the twin tip do anything for the turn?
Supposedly, a turned up tail makes it easier to release from the turn. The reason all bump skis have slightly upturned tails.
 

chadr2

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That makes sense thanks.

What about twin tips vs. a flat tail? Does the twin tip do anything for the turn?

Not usually because the fattest part of the ski is before the tip makes its turn upward. The fattest parts of the ski are what are refferred to as your "effective edge". The effective edge is the amount of metal edge that is in contact with the snow when the ski is on that edge. That distance is usually located between the spots where the tips turn upwards.

Volkl made skis 10 years or so ago that had their 3d sidecut. That sidecut was designed to have more effective edge, so you could ski a shorter ski with just as much edge, and grip.
 

sLoPeS

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and they spray the snot out of anyone who happens to be behind you.

i got a face full of snow skiing behind you one run. i forgot how much of a rooster those kick up.

hahaha............i need some moguls skis on the asap.

i did tune and wax the foils last night. they are back to having white bases again, atleast for now.
 

severine

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No explanation on the why but I feel it. Not so much between the Joyriders (126-74-105, 13m turning radius, 162 length flat tail, synthetic core) and Maries (112-78-102, 16m turning radius, 165 length twin tips, wood core). Both have basically the same bindings mounted on them with the lifters (though the Joyriders are a system binding). BUT when I get on the Line Celebrities (125-90-113, 14.2m turning radius, 165 length twin tips, wood core), that's a different story. These have, once again, basically the same Look NX10 bindings on them... but they're flat-mounted. It's either the flat mounting or the wider waist, but it's taken a lot of getting used to and I'm still not 100% on them yet. Brian makes fun of me and says to just ski them... but they feel drastically different and require different technique. It's not that easy for me.

So you're not alone. But I don't have the technical knowledge to explain why.
 

4aprice

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I switch back and forth between a 170 Atomic C-9 (rock ski) and 178 Atomic Metron 9. I use the 170's more and when switching from them to 178's everythings great. I also use the 170's for skiing steep moguls. If I switch them the other way around, the 170's definately feel less stable. I use the 178's to run Nastar. The Metron 9's are a great cruising ski and good in lower angle bumps. They're a fast ski and I've been a little scared to try then in really steep bumps.

It may be a mental thing with me. I used to ski 205's in the moguls in a straight ski. With the shapes the and the cutting down of lengths 178's seem like 210's to me. As I get older I want the shorter ski where I feel quick turns are a neccessity.

Alex

Lake Hopatcong, NJ
 

roark

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What F's me up is (trying to ) tele in the AM then alpine later. I spend all morning trying to "sit" then I'm ridiculuously backseat when I lock down the heels. Not recommended.

i don't have a huge problem switching up between alpine setups. They do different things well and that impacts how I ski them. Just ski more, you'll get used to it

And none of the Sundown crew can carve, we already know that ;)
 

chadr2

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Lifeted vs. unlifted

I would explain the big difference in what you are feeling to the lifted binding verses the flat binding. In a lifted scenario you are higher off the ski. That extra height allows you to put more pressure (leverage) to the ski edge.

On a wider ski, I find that the extra lift helps to make turns on in bounds terrain. (packed snow) My wider skis, typically are flat mounted because I will be skiing powder and don't need (or want) to leverage the edges to make them turn. I will be doing less carving and more floating.
 

mister moose

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I also ski on a number of different skis. What i find is the first run sometimes isn't real pretty, then you get dialed in. Some skis dial in faster for me than others - one pair is more like beating me about the head with a 2x4 each time I take it out.

Since the response of the ski varies ( forget about binding flat spots, weight, flex, etc, let's just lump all that together as response) you need to adapt your technique to the ski. It takes some time to get your muscle memory adjusted to the ski and the conditions.

An advanced skier knows how the ski will respond, and places his body in anticipation of the next turn. If you anticipate wrong, due to a strange ski on, you go splat. Or at least, serious recover mode.

So I'm saying it's 2 things. You need to learn to ski the ski in the first place, and you need to transition each time you change skis. Some people will transition in 3 turns, some in 3 runs. Still has to happen.
 

riverc0il

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i think ur over analyzing it.
+1

Different skis will behave differently and you need to ski them differently. You need to ski a ski with the understanding that you can't make the ski do something it was not built to do. And you have to understand how to make it do what it was designed to do. Some people can push their skis around regardless, but it is usually a lot of work. Part of it is having rock stable technique the other part of it is understanding the ski's characteristics and being able to adapt. I ski three different skis and have gotten very good at changing gears from the get go.

I just can't deal with boot changes. :-( That is a whole different story.
 
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today I tryed out a friends Stockli Slalom skis which were only about 165 and maybe 63 underfot and really stiff..the next run Nordica Blowers..wow that was quite an adjustment..
 
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