Oil Heat

[SkiFanE]

A new boiler doesn't seem like something you need, but I think I paid less than $700 to have the attic insulated (18" blow-in insulation). I'm sure that would save you some dough over 8-10 years. I did it right when I moved into my place so I'm not sure what the previous owner was burning, but I only go through 2 tanks of Oil a year. New storm windows don't cost that much either. There's a lot of small things you can do that will have a pretty big impact.

We are well insulated in the attic (and even an insulated door over the fold down stairs). The boiler is 45 years old, I think it would help to get a new one. We have storm windows - but they are not insulated double-pane windows you get nowadays. The previous owner seemed to do as much as he could. House was built in 1969 and pretty much original with some added 'features'. So really, it seems the expensive things are what is left to do. But yeah..wouldn't hurt to get an assessment, you never know.

 

[Not Sure]

"45 yr old boiler" high stack temp, most likely you wood benefit with one of these
http://www.magicheatreclaimer.com/magic-heat-reclaimers/
As long as there is enough space between flue and boiler outlet.

 

[xwhaler]

I use approx 100 gals/month in my 1700 sq ft Cape that is well insulated (newer home, Andersen windows etc)
We used to keep the heat much lower...turn up to 60 while at home and just wear swetshirts in house...turn down to 50 while sleeping.
Never had a problem with that approach until last yr when I had pipes freeze 2x on me..one resulting in a $400 plumbing bill to un freeze them. Luckily no damage.
Now with that in the back of my mind and my son running around we keep it at 60 at night or during day when we are at work, 68/70 while in house.

Not sure you guys are familiar with this site but may be helpful to price shop.
http://www.newenglandoil.com/

I monitor this site whenever I need to buy...never buy more than 100 gals at a time because I like the flexibility of using different companies if price goes down. Not all providers will deliver 100 gals...some have a 150 gal min so I avoid them.
Not all companies of course are on that site but the ones that want to be cost competitive are I've found. The other guys in my area that don't post daily prices on NEO or FB/website I've found are just higher.

Oil is oil...I see no reason to pay a higher price/gal than I have to. I monitor the tank level so outside of showing up, filling my tank, and taking my check on delivery there is no other value that they provide that would require me paying more.

Some folks are on pre-buy or auto delivery programs. I would never do that...you lose flexibility if prices fall and you are locked in to one company.
Few yrs ago a buddy got burned by a local company going out of business...he had given them $2500 up front on a pre-buy plan he never got back.

 

[SkiFanE]

I use approx 100 gals/month in my 1700 sq ft Cape that is well insulated (newer home, Andersen windows etc)
We used to keep the heat much lower...turn up to 60 while at home and just wear swetshirts in house...turn down to 50 while sleeping.
Never had a problem with that approach until last yr when I had pipes freeze 2x on me..one resulting in a $400 plumbing bill to un freeze them. Luckily no damage.
Now with that in the back of my mind and my son running around we keep it at 60 at night or during day when we are at work, 68/70 while in house.

Not sure you guys are familiar with this site but may be helpful to price shop.
http://www.newenglandoil.com/

I monitor this site whenever I need to buy...never buy more than 100 gals at a time because I like the flexibility of using different companies if price goes down. Not all providers will deliver 100 gals...some have a 150 gal min so I avoid them.
Not all companies of course are on that site but the ones that want to be cost competitive are I've found. The other guys in my area that don't post daily prices on NEO or FB/website I've found are just higher.

Oil is oil...I see no reason to pay a higher price/gal than I have to. I monitor the tank level so outside of showing up, filling my tank, and taking my check on delivery there is no other value that they provide that would require me paying more.

Some folks are on pre-buy or auto delivery programs. I would never do that...you lose flexibility if prices fall and you are locked in to one company.
Few yrs ago a buddy got burned by a local company going out of business...he had given them $2500 up front on a pre-buy plan he never got back.

Home owners for 21 years. Back at the beginning oil was not so volatile, basically it never seemed to fall in price during the winter, but go up. So we would do budget and capped plans, and it always worked well. Then probably 8-10 years ago things seemed to change, and the capped prices weren't that great... and when oil skyrocketed...it it could fall too - so more chance your agreed price from the previous May would be higher than market price when delivered. So that's when we stopped doing plans.

BUT...the extra cost with a reliable supplier can be worth it. In MA we have a cheap guy that delivers on COD, calls us to check every month - found him on that site you linked. But..when our oil burner had problems last winter, right before Xmas and our vacation - we needed someone quick to come fix it. Well...he just recommends people, doesn't do repair. So we had to find someone to come Xmas Eve...I'm sure we got reamed on charges lol. In ME we have a company and they have a key to our house, and we need that. I think we get reamed on oil price...but we need the reliability and someone who can enter house when we're not there. So there is a good reason to go with the full service companies in certain cases.

 

[xwhaler]

Agree that with a 2nd home far away it makes total sense to have a company that does both delivery and repair and has access to the house.

 

[Not Sure]

Air leakage is the biggest problem, even in newer homes. When Plumbing and electric are run during construction holes are drilled larger than necessary, Codes today require fire stoping with foam or other "rotten cotton".
I've been on some fire damaged jobs and after drywall has been removed, it's amazing to see smoke trails finding there way through small areas.
Air leaking out through theses areas 24/7 draws exterior air in.
A good tool to find air leakage is a cheap infrared thermometer.
Up in your attic look for dis colored insulation , it acts like an air filter and picks up dirt
Spray foam works well to seal up plumbing and electric penetrations.

 

[wa-loaf]

I use approx 100 gals/month in my 1700 sq ft Cape that is well insulated (newer home, Andersen windows etc)
We used to keep the heat much lower...turn up to 60 while at home and just wear swetshirts in house...turn down to 50 while sleeping.
Never had a problem with that approach until last yr when I had pipes freeze 2x on me..one resulting in a $400 plumbing bill to un freeze them. Luckily no damage.
Now with that in the back of my mind and my son running around we keep it at 60 at night or during day when we are at work, 68/70 while in house.

Not sure you guys are familiar with this site but may be helpful to price shop.
http://www.newenglandoil.com/

I monitor this site whenever I need to buy...never buy more than 100 gals at a time because I like the flexibility of using different companies if price goes down. Not all providers will deliver 100 gals...some have a 150 gal min so I avoid them.
Not all companies of course are on that site but the ones that want to be cost competitive are I've found. The other guys in my area that don't post daily prices on NEO or FB/website I've found are just higher.

Oil is oil...I see no reason to pay a higher price/gal than I have to. I monitor the tank level so outside of showing up, filling my tank, and taking my check on delivery there is no other value that they provide that would require me paying more.

Some folks are on pre-buy or auto delivery programs. I would never do that...you lose flexibility if prices fall and you are locked in to one company.
Few yrs ago a buddy got burned by a local company going out of business...he had given them $2500 up front on a pre-buy plan he never got back.

You might want to check out https://www.smartclickenergy.com/

I use Massenergy.org and have found it to be pretty good. I'm will call so only fill up when I'm ready.

 

[xwhaler]

You might want to check out https://www.smartclickenergy.com/

I use Massenergy.org and have found it to be pretty good. I'm will call so only fill up when I'm ready.

I've looked at those broker type outfits before but haven't found one that is in my area. Plugged my zip into that site and no dice.

 

[wa-loaf]

I've looked at those broker type outfits before but haven't found one that is in my area. Plugged my zip into that site and no dice.

Might be a MA only thing. Just realized you are in NH.

 

[from_the_NEK]

About 190gal/month supplemented with 1 cord/month of wood during the dead of winter to heat my only 7 year old 2,500 (3,500 including unfinished basement) Cape. The basement is what is killing me for the oil usage. There is radiant heat in the concrete floor but 3 of the four walls are uninsulated concrete with a 0 R value. I keep the thermostat at 60 down there but that cold air makes the main level's floor cold (radiant heat there too).
The wood stove is on the main level and can do a pretty good job keeping the two primary floors warm by itself until the temp drops below 5 degrees. If I let the woodstove get too low, the radiant heat in the floor of the main level kicks in but it the system has to start at the 60 degree temp of the basement. So the furnace runs like crazy just trying to get it back up to temp.
I REALLY need to get the basement walls insulated. I think I could cut my oil use in half.

 

[Savemeasammy]

About 190gal/month supplemented with 1 cord/month of wood during the dead of winter to heat my only 7 year old 2,500 (3,500 including unfinished basement) Cape. The basement is what is killing me for the oil usage. There is radiant heat in the concrete floor but 3 of the four walls are uninsulated concrete with a 0 R value. I keep the thermostat at 60 down there but that cold air makes the main level's floor cold (radiant heat there too).
The wood stove is on the main level and can do a pretty good job keeping the two primary floors warm by itself until the temp drops below 5 degrees. If I let the woodstove get too low, the radiant heat in the floor of the main level kicks in but it the system has to start at the 60 degree temp of the basement. So the furnace runs like crazy just trying to get it back up to temp.
I REALLY need to get the basement walls insulated. I think I could cut my oil use in half.

Did your builder adequately insulate UNDER your basement slab? That could contribute to your problem... If not, you are losing heat to the ground via conduction.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[from_the_NEK]

Did your builder adequately insulate UNDER your basement slab? That could contribute to your problem... If not, you are losing heat to the ground via conduction.

There is 2.5" foam board insulation under the slab.

 

[Not Sure]

There is 2.5" foam board insulation under the slab.

Should be some around the perimeter too.

 

[steamboat1]

I average about 500 gal. a year. On auto delivery & have a service contract to have boiler cleaned every year plus any repairs that need to be done. Contract is about $200 if I recall correctly & covers everything. A few years ago my auto water feed got stuck open on Thanksgiving morning. Called the company at 7:30am & the repairman was here at 8:00am. Can't beat that kind of service, especially on a holiday. Oil is for heat only, my hot water is natural gas. Was thinking of converting everything to natural gas but I don't think I'll save much if anything. My thermostat is on a timer. From 6am to 8am it's set at 66. From 8am to 3:30pm it's set at 63. From 3:30pm to 11pm it's back to 66. From 11pm to 6am it's back to 63.

 

[Not Sure]

I average about 500 gal. a year. On auto delivery & have a service contract to have boiler cleaned every year plus any repairs that need to be done. Contract is about $200 if I recall correctly & covers everything. A few years ago my auto water feed got stuck open on Thanksgiving morning. Called the company at 7:30am & the repairman was here at 8:00am. Can't beat that kind of service, especially on a holiday. Oil is for heat only, my hot water is natural gas. Was thinking of converting everything to natural gas but I don't think I'll save much if anything. My thermostat is on a timer. From 6am to 8am it's set at 66. From 8am to 3:30pm it's set at 63. From 3:30pm to 11pm it's back to 66. From 11pm to 6am it's back to 63.

Natural gas conversion will pay for itself very quickly
I do a lot , you can remove the burner and install a new one and keep your old boiler,
Just have to install a chimney liner
Or replace the whole unit and go with condensing equipment and not have to use your old chimney .

 

[prsboogie]

I would love natural gas but its not available here. Always had it growing up but where I bought its only in half the town.

 

[Geoff]

Natural gas conversion will pay for itself very quickly

Not this year

My natural gas bill went up as did my electric bill. The gas pipeline supply problem is giving eastern New England consumers the hard screwing. I haven't run the numbers but I'll bet oil is cheaper than natural gas this year if you're in the Massachusetts NStar footprint. I imagine the same is true for Vermont propane vs oil this year even though I get a really good sub-$2.00/gallon propane rate at my condo.

 

[Glenn]

Under 100 gallons. We bought a pellet stove. It'll take a few years to see the savings. But the house is nice and warm. It would cost a fortune in oil to keep the house in the mid 70's.

 

[steamboat1]

Under 100 gallons. We bought a pellet stove. It'll take a few years to see the savings. But the house is nice and warm. It would cost a fortune in oil to keep the house in the mid 70's.

mid 70's
:blink:

 

[andrec10]

Under 100 gallons. We bought a pellet stove. It'll take a few years to see the savings. But the house is nice and warm. It would cost a fortune in oil to keep the house in the mid 70's.

Mid 70's! Thats not even healthy in the winter! Too friggen warm!