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Vehicle Related Opinios Wanted

dartmouth01

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I just went through the process of selling my 2005 G35, and buying a 2007 Silverado diesel and a 30 foot camper, so I had to do some thinking about what to do. Most things I would point out others have already done so, so I only have a couple other things to mention:

1) In MA at least, you can get your sales tax reduced if you trade in the car towards another car (or trailer, apparently). In my case, the rv dealer was willing to offer me close to what I reasonably expected on the open market after I included the tax reduction, so I planned to trade in the G35. As luck would have it though, someone was interested in the car the day before I was supposed to trade it in, so I sold it it to the private party for a few hundred more. However, I was very sure that the car would meet their expectations because I took very good care of it and was sure there were no problems. Even as a private seller, there are still lemon laws in MA I would have to contend with if something went wrong with the car soon after purchase, and I would rather not have that hassle over a few hundred bucks.

2) When possible, buy used. My first car out of college was new, and I may never ever buy a new car again. It hurts to know that your beautiful new car is worth so much less after the first year, and once the "new car feel" goes away, you're still stuck paying the bills. When I researched buying my second car (05 Toyota Highlander, which is for sale btw!), I looked at factory certified pre-owned, and I would highly recommend those programs to anyone. The cars are generally picked to be the best of the litter, they usually come with good warranties (usually honored at ANY factory dealer), and usually have other side benefits (the Silverado is a certified preowned and comes with 2 years of oil changes, which if you know diesels, means i get ALOT of oil free!)

3) If you do plan to sell a car, try to do so within 5 years of its year of manufacture. The reason I feel this is important is because banks usually only finance cars that are 5-6 years old. After that, you'll have to find someone who's got cash, and that generally means you will have to take less money (not too many people have $20k saved up, more people will be able to finance it though). I wish I had known that when selling the G35, because I probably would have tried harder to sell it last year, since I think I would have had more buyers interested in it.

4) Do your research on which cars will have the least amount of depreciation. You can cross reference with average residual values for leases, which is basically a number that dealers will use to calculate how much a a car will depreciate over time in a lease, hence figuring out how much to charge you for a lease. Most of the least depreciation cars can maintain around 50% of their original value in 5 years, but I think the worst deprection cars can lose up to 80%. Thats a huge chunk of money you can save if you buy the right vehicle to start.

Overall, unless your needs change or you feel the need to get a new car (I think changing into something new if your heart desires it is a perfectly fine reason!), keeping a used car that is running well is still better financially. But then again, if you don't do your own work and know you will have to pay for 3-4 big jobs in the near future (timing belt, tires, brakes, paint), it is not such a bad thing to look into a newer model vehicle.
 
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Nick

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You are in dreamland. A 2003 Saab with 170,000 miles on it will go straight to auction. I'll bet that when you compensate for all those miles looking it up in Galves, it's more like $1,500 to $2,000. With lemon laws, no dealer would dream of putting a car like that on their used car lot. You might get $2,500 in a private sale but you'll have every CraigsList wierdo in the world emailing you trying to steal it for $1,000.

No way. The car is fully loaded and looks new. Kbb says 5.5k for private and I know that's high.hell I sold my last vw with 140k for 4500.
 

Nick

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You are in dreamland. A 2003 Saab with 170,000 miles on it will go straight to auction. I'll bet that when you compensate for all those miles looking it up in Galves, it's more like $1,500 to $2,000. With lemon laws, no dealer would dream of putting a car like that on their used car lot. You might get $2,500 in a private sale but you'll have every CraigsList wierdo in the world emailing you trying to steal it for $1,000.

Also I was talking about private sale
 

hammer

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No way. The car is fully loaded and looks new. Kbb says 5.5k for private and I know that's high.hell I sold my last vw with 140k for 4500.
Just for grins I checked my 2001 Highlander's value on KBB...came up with $7400. Think I'd be lucky if I got half that.
 

marcski

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I happen to be a fan of new cars. I had a Honda which I bought used and ended up putting over 210K myself. (car had over 235k when she died). However, with any type of foreign car, I am very leery of how a prior owner has treated a car. I would almost rather paythe premium of a new car and have the piece of mind that I am the only one to have driven and more importantly taken care and maintained the vehicle. I buy a car for two (maybe three) reasons. Fun to drive factor, utility and safety. I also keep most of my cars for the long term. Therefore, depreciation doesn't really play a roll in my decision making.

We lease the wife's mdx...in the process of buying a new one for her she really likes it. I have 125k on my '06 Audi and she drives like a dream. I am, however, thinking of getting another Audi. Perhaps leasing a new A4 in a 6 spd. The car I really want is the S4. That car is awesome with super comfy and supportive seats. But I was hoping to being down my monthly payment from what I was paying on my old Audi....which is now paid off. I drive a lot for work so I am thinking of keeping 2 cars on the road for me for a while.

As fo the OP. Is the wife happy and content driving the current volvo? If so keep it for another year or so. Also, I have my own VAG-COM and my mechanic is an old friend. So between the two of us, the maintenance on my Audi has been quite reasonable.
 

hammer

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As fo the OP. Is the wife happy and content driving the current volvo? If so keep it for another year or so. Also, I have my own VAG-COM and my mechanic is an old friend. So between the two of us, the maintenance on my Audi has been quite reasonable.
The concern I have with my Volvo long-term is when things do break out of warranty they will be big bucks to fix. My local independent mechanic closed his shop earlier this year so my only option at this point is the dealer...and of course their rates are on the high side.
 

Glenn

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You guys may be surprised with used car values right now. With the way things are, people are holding on to their cars longer. Economics 101: This has created a shortage of used cars. Hence, values are up a bit. Oh, and cash for clunkers took a number of perfectly good vehicles off the road.
 

Morwax

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Depreciation

I dont think I will ever buy another new car, regardless of my financial situation. HORRIBLE depreciation nowadays makes it equivilant to throwing money out the window. There are always nice clean used cars from people who feel they need new every two. And the majority of the depreciation has been dealt with. Worst case scenario: The transmission falls out and you need to call a tow truck (hasnt happened to me in 20+ years). Still only a fifth of what you will lose in one year in depreciation on a new luxury vehicle.
I guess if youve got it youve got it.. "A fool and his money are soon parted":beer:
 

andrec10

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I dont think I will ever buy another new car, regardless of my financial situation. HORRIBLE depreciation nowadays makes it equivilant to throwing money out the window. There are always nice clean used cars from people who feel they need new every two. And the majority of the depreciation has been dealt with. Worst case scenario: The transmission falls out and you need to call a tow truck (hasnt happened to me in 20+ years). Still only a fifth of what you will lose in one year in depreciation on a new luxury vehicle.
I guess if youve got it youve got it.. "A fool and his money are soon parted":beer:

To each his own....
 

deadheadskier

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I'd go with the XC, then- either keep or new. The Cayenne isn't (well, doesn't have to be) a status symbol car- it is truly a great car to drive. driving back and forth from Boston to Connecticut through all kinds of really shitty weather, my wife never had a problem or felt unsafe. I ran it through some terrain it probably shouldn't have been in, and had no problems- even got over a 3-foot plow berm, down an unplowed steep driveway, and back up it the next day.

Buying a car because of what the neighbors will say is dumb. Buying a car because it does what you want it to is great. I get angry at most of the Cayenne Turbo or S drivers I see who drive 6 miles an hour and slow to 2 for every curve. Which is most of them.

:lol:

No matter how you use it, it's still a Porsche. Outside of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Bentley and a few other exotics, a Porsche is the ultimate status symbol car. How you drive it doesn't change that fact C-ten.

I think it's great that you've been successful enough to afford such a vehicle and I do realize that you can pay similar money for SUVs from more pedestrian brands, but don't kid yourself C-ten, Porsche = status symbol car.
 

hammer

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I dont think I will ever buy another new car, regardless of my financial situation. HORRIBLE depreciation nowadays makes it equivilant to throwing money out the window. There are always nice clean used cars from people who feel they need new every two. And the majority of the depreciation has been dealt with. Worst case scenario: The transmission falls out and you need to call a tow truck (hasnt happened to me in 20+ years). Still only a fifth of what you will lose in one year in depreciation on a new luxury vehicle.
I guess if youve got it youve got it.. "A fool and his money are soon parted":beer:
Counter argument to that is that the person who unloaded the car after two years (short term lease?) most likely did the bare minimum on maintenance and may have beat up on the car as well, which will result in problems that may not show themselves until you've had the car for several years. If you want to minimize that risk you go with a CPO car which will be a lot more expensive.

At least with a new car I know it's history (for the most part...dealers can beat up on "new" cars too).
 

snoseek

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I bought my little Tacoma new. In this case it was actually a better value as I don't really care about features that most want. I basically got to find the one I wanted. I put over half down so the rest is only financed for 24 months. I was able to do that because my last two cars both were little Civics and both went to over 250k. This truck I will likely drive for a long time but if I don't at least I have some decent equity in it. This is why I will always vote to drive the car till the bitter end. It takes a lot of repair bills to equal a 4-500 dollar payment. Like I said, if you're constantly at the shop, find a new brand.
 

Morwax

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Counter argument to that is that the person who unloaded the car after two years (short term lease?) most likely did the bare minimum on maintenance and may have beat up on the car as well, which will result in problems that may not show themselves until you've had the car for several years. If you want to minimize that risk you go with a CPO car which will be a lot more expensive.

At least with a new car I know it's history (for the most part...dealers can beat up on "new" cars too).
Ive seen new cars that were just lemons as well. Ive been lucky enough to snag some nice trade ins from wealthy older neighbors whom I know maintain and dont abuse them.
What is CPO?
 

bobbutts

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My advice, don't spend 60k
25k - 30k to Subaru gets you a perfect ski vehicle that's reliable and holds it's value well
 

billski

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We tend to drive our vehicles for a long time. My Jeep is around 112k and I'll drive it until the floors Fred Flintstone out.

85k doesn't sound all that bad. If you've kept up with it, it'll probably last you a good long while.

We keep our cars for whichever comes first, in this order:

1) The price of average monthly repair bill is greater than a new car payment (regardless of how we pay for it, this is a watermark.)
2) 200K miles
3) 10 years

We have been doing this for 30 years. We've had a Saab, Toyota Sienna and Avalon and Honda.

We baby our cars, drive easily and to prescribed maintenance. If you drive it hard, all bets are off.
 

jaja111

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You guys may be surprised with used car values right now. With the way things are, people are holding on to their cars longer. Economics 101: This has created a shortage of used cars. Hence, values are up a bit. Oh, and cash for clunkers took a number of perfectly good vehicles off the road.

Working in the business, THIS is the primary reason along with reduced supply for economic and natural disaster reasons that it is a seller's market. Cars are not cheap at the moment.

I also have to comment on KBB. People that believe Kelly blue book or even the NADA guide as being the bible of used car values are sheeple drinking the blue koolaid. While yes they are a guideline for values, they are skewed rather grossly by not only the reasons above but also by the fact they obtain their data from state registrations. So who here is not going to under-report to the DMV the sale price of the used car they purchased? Tax tax tax tax tax. The older the vehicle and higher the mileage the more skewed down the sales figures are. Nick's Saab will not sell for $1500 to $2000 at auction. Currently in western NY, where there aren't even that many Saabs or Saab fans, it would easily take $3500 - $4000 and sell retail at $6k. For the Northeast as a whole this could be $500 more. I know this from being AT the auctions, not speculating.

Besides KBB is a site to buy cars now and its an enormous conflict of interest to true values.

And as for trading a vehicle in, or rather not trading in, it all depends on your perspective. What is your time worth dealing with asshat offers on your car? It is a royal PIA but indeed sometimes necessary to get the best value, especially if you have a non niche vehicle (i.e. Toyota Corolla). I have a car that across most dealerships would take $16k to $18k for the trade, but the dealership it was purchased at is giving me $22k. Most dealers see an Outback XT as a gas hog battle wagon but the Subaru dealership sees it as a big WRX sleeper and they know of more than a few buyers. Yes, I might be able to get $23k at private party sale but the hassle isn't worth it to me. And btw, fwiw - the private party price in VG condition on the over beloved KBB is $20k on this car. If that was the true value of the car, no dealer in the world would give me $2k over private sale for a trade. KBB is dead.
 

Morwax

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Had a talk last night and for now the plan is to hang onto the XC, I told her I'd get it detailed for her.
There ya go.. some new rubber and a good detailing shell think shes in a new one.
 

deadheadskier

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We keep our cars for whichever comes first, in this order:

1) The price of average monthly repair bill is greater than a new car payment (regardless of how we pay for it, this is a watermark.)
2) 200K miles

That has been my criteria for owning vehicles as well. I am on my 7th car in my lifetime.

2 have made it to 200K; a Honda Accord and a Ford Explorer

I had an Acura Legend where the transmission went at 165K, which I dumped. I drove that car very hard, so I blame myself for the transmission going.

I've had an Audi, a VW and a Subaru all which started to have repair costs approaching mortgage payments after 100K and were quickly dumped. I am unlikely to purchase those brands in the future.

Current 2007 Hyundai Sonata has 158K on it and has had two minor repair issues, both under warranty. The car still drives very well. If it continues to do so after 200K miles, I'm inclined to just keep driving it until something major happens.
 

bvibert

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What is CPO?

Certified Pre-Owned

They're cars that have gone through a dealer's checklist inspection (sometimes pretty extensive) and are certified to meet their standards. The certification also means that they carry a manufacturers warranty.
 
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