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beginner help

BackLoafRiver

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Hey all,

I am usually posting in the ski forums but figured I could get some help from you all as spring is *sigh* upon us.

I have always been a pretty sedentary being during the summer except hitting the gy, 5 days a week. I have recently decided to pick up biking as a great way to stay in shape for ski season and to enjoy the beautiful outdoors.

Here is what I am looking to do:
1) Light mountain biking (the carriage trails in acadia national park for those of you familiar with them)
2) Road biking
3) Dirt trails

I do not need to be doing anything steep or crazy.

That being said, my questions are:
1) what type of bike should I buy?
2) if I were interested in doing some of the longer bike things (there is a 180 mile bike tour across Maine) what should I be expecting to do for training? I would love to build up the endurance to do the "Trek" this summer.


I know its a tough call. I appreciate all your advice and help
 

mlctvt

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If your want to buy just one bike and ride on dirt roads and on the road I'd suggest a hybrid bike. It's like a light mountain bike with upright handlebars and narrower tires than a mountain bike but not as narrow as a road bike. Another option is a road touring bike with wide tires, 25 to 28MM or more. It all depends on what type of off road riding you want to do most?

As far as training just start with short rides maybe 5 to 10 miles and work your way up as you get more comfortable. Try to ride at least several times per week. Bicycling magazine print and online is a good source of material. Annually they run a feature showing training suggestionjs for various lengths of rides. How many days is the 180 mile bike tour?
 

BackLoafRiver

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The bike tour is 3 days. I am looking to do mostly trail riding with some road. Nothing overly complex. (but a challenge wouldn't hurt)

Do you have any recommendations on a good hybrid? I know there are a million companies out there but I have always heard Trek, Specialized, and Cannondale mentioned.

Ever heard anything about k2's bikes?
 

bvibert

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I would ask around for recommendations for a good bike shop in the area and go with whatever they stock/recommend.
 

Jisch

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I agree with bvibert. Just about ALL big name manufacturers have bikes that will do what you want it to do. A good bike shop will match your available funds with what you want in a bike and make you happy.

Most hybrids are "mountain bike-lite" type deals, that I think would be tough on really long rides - 180 miles is a looooooooong ride. Its hard to get a bike that would be comfortable on a long road ride like that and still be good for woods use. If I were planning on that kind of ride, I'd concentrate on a road bike for now. I would make sure you have plenty of saddle time to build up your "seat", if you get my drift. I think that will be your biggest issue.

John
 

Marc

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I agree with bvibert. Just about ALL big name manufacturers have bikes that will do what you want it to do. A good bike shop will match your available funds with what you want in a bike and make you happy.

Most hybrids are "mountain bike-lite" type deals, that I think would be tough on really long rides - 180 miles is a looooooooong ride. Its hard to get a bike that would be comfortable on a long road ride like that and still be good for woods use. If I were planning on that kind of ride, I'd concentrate on a road bike for now. I would make sure you have plenty of saddle time to build up your "seat", if you get my drift. I think that will be your biggest issue.

John

Unless the trails are as benign as he says they are, in which case, I'd recommend a cyclocross type bike, with a set of slicks. A good bike shop could set you up with such a rig.
 

BackLoafRiver

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So, I have narrowed the field down to 4 different bikes. After some pretty intense research/ consulting at various shops, here is what I have come up with:

1) The Gary Fisher Mamba - http://www.fisherbikes.com/bike/model/mamba - a 29" hard tail that seems to be more geared to trail riding BUT is capable of handling the road well. (again, according to the shop guy)

2) The Gary Fisher Kaitai - http://www.fisherbikes.com/bike/model/kaitai/detail - another 29"er. More for road riding I guess.

3) The Scott Sportster P3 - http://scottusa.com/us_en/product/1668/11798/sportster_p3 - 29er with disc brakes.

4) The Specialized Crosstrail Elite - http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=38465 - No disc brakes here which might be a deal breaker or not.

A few things I am wondering:

- Does anyone have any experience with any of these?
- Does the amount of travel in the front end suspension make too much of a difference? For instance, 2 of the 4 travel 60mm or less. The Mamba travels 80+mm. I know this makes more of a difference in off road riding but, is it worth paying a little more for more travel?
- Is there a bike that I missed somewhere in my reading?

Thanks a million for the help
 

Talisman

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I don't have any expereince with those bikes, but I'd buy the Mamba. You don't really want a hybrid bike which will basically suck on the road and off the road. With a cross country bike you will rule off the road and suck on the road, but will have really nice components. The hard tail lets you avoid the 'monkey bob' when hammering on the road.
 

Talisman

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Full suspension bikes especially will counter pedal strokes by compressing or extending the spring and shocks on the frame and this has been called the 'monkey bob'. This 'bobbing' robs the pedaller of some of the power generated from being transmitted to rotating the rear wheel. You can tune some of this out by stiffening the springs on an adjustable suspension system and the stiffer suspension makes 'landing' harder. Pedaling in circles and not 'hammering the pedals helps with reducing it. I notice the monkey bob most on the road with a full suspension mtn bike. Avoiding the monkey bob is the reason that Specialized came up with the 'brain' which cuts the rear suspension out automatically on the Epic series of bikes.
 

Greg

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Never heard it called "monkey bob", rather just pedal bob. Some Fox rear shocks have a Propedal switch that stiffens the shock a bit to help alleviate some of the pedal bob.
 

BackLoafRiver

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Ah, I guess that makes sense. That was one thing I was trying to avoid with a front suspension (making it necessary to have lock-outs)...I didn't want to be counterproductive if I was out on the road for an extended period of time.
 

Talisman

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A hard tail with a lock out on the front fork and you will avoid making like a monkey. I've had good luck with a fork lockout and a rear shock 'brain' with a full suspension bike.
 

Greg

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Any decision here?
 
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