P-Tex

[splunge]

If I'm fixing my skis with the P-tex candle do I need to empty the bases of wax or can I just do them as is?


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[Hawkshot99]

I use a brass brush to make sure the base is entirely clean of dirt. This also pulls out most of the wax as well.

 

[splunge]

I use a brass brush to make sure the base is entirely clean of dirt. This also pulls out most of the wax as well.

Ok, I always use brass anyways, I was wondering if I should hit it with the steel or not


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[Talisman]

Ok, I always use brass anyways, I was wondering if I should hit it with the steel or not


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To get the p-tex to adhere properly all the wax has to be off the base area being repaired, use some wax removing liquid like acetone or one of the bio-based similars. I doubt you can remove enough wax with a brass brush or a scraper to get lasting adhesion. Getting the base material warm before filling with the p-tex candle drips helps. If your gouges are near the edges and metal is exposed use some metal grip string before applying the p-tex repair filler.

 

[splunge]

Acetone is safe for ski bases?


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[Hawkshot99]

I use base cleaner. I don't mess ariund with random chemicals.

 

[twinplanx]

WTF is metal grip string?

 

[marcski]

WTF is metal grip string?

http://www.tognar.com/metalgrip-repair-string-copolymer/

Works and adheres to edges much better than p-tex.

 

[Talisman]

I use base cleaner. I don't mess ariund with random chemicals.

What do you think is the active ingredient in your base cleaner? Likely acetone or naptha, unless you purchased a biobased cleaner.

 

[splunge]

What do you think is the active ingredient in your base cleaner? Likely acetone or naptha, unless you purchased a biobased cleaner.

So I can just Dab with acetone and a towel?


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[Hawkshot99]

What do you think is the active ingredient in your base cleaner? Likely acetone or naptha, unless you purchased a biobased cleaner.

Don't know, don't really care. I have swix brand cleaner. I just am not a fan of putting random chemicals on my stuff and hoping for the best.

 

[twinplanx]

http://www.tognar.com/metalgrip-repair-string-copolymer/

Works and adheres to edges much better than p-tex.

Interesting...

 

[skirick]

Not to hijack the thread, but since we are discussing ski tuning I've always wondered, when scraping wax before brushing, how much do you scrape off? Till you don't get anymore?

 

[yeggous]

I've had mixed success with metal grip. You need to start with it shallow in the repair, let it cool, and then layer p-tex on top of it.

In my experience any damage that is deep enough to require metal grip has also pulled out after skiing it for a few days. I'm a proponent of bringing it my local shop. They'll do an epoxy job for $10.

 

[splunge]

Not to hijack the thread, but since we are discussing ski tuning I've always wondered, when scraping wax before brushing, how much do you scrape off? Till you don't get anymore?

Yes, often you can still see the waxy patches, which are easier to see on a structured ski, and once you can't pull up more wax, then start brushing, start with more coarse brushes, then work your way down to finer ones, but be careful not to take too much wax off with the coarse ones, I wouldn't advise more than 3 or four full strokes with a coarse nilon or brass, and I Finnish with short ultra fine horse hair, then a ultra smooth felt pad for the final touch.


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[Cannonball]

Yes, often you can still see the waxy patches, which are easier to see on a structured ski, and once you can't pull up more wax, then start brushing, start with more coarse brushes, then work your way down to finer ones, but be careful not to take too much wax off with the coarse ones, I wouldn't advise more than 3 or four full strokes with a coarse nilon or brass, and I Finnish with short ultra fine horse hair, then a ultra smooth felt pad for the final touch.


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You started this thread with a pretty basic question about ski repair/tuning. Now your giving detailed advice. Where do you rate yourself on the ski tuning knowledge scale? Just so we're all clear and on the same page in the discussion.

 

[splunge]

You started this thread with a pretty basic question about ski repair/tuning. Now your giving detailed advice. Where do you rate yourself on the ski tuning knowledge scale? Just so we're all clear and on the same page in the discussion.

I'm adept at tuning sharpening waxing etcetera, but I also take good care of my skis and have never run into this specific problem, about fixing my bases, because I have never gouged my bases quite like this. So it is a lack of any experience in this topic that forced me to ask.

I am actually a very well equipt tech, I even made my own hot box. I have all the tools I need to do this, I was just unsure, because I hadn't done it before.


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[C-Rex]

If the gouge is deep enough, you may want to use a razor to a bevel so that the gouge is wider in towards the core than it is out at the surface. This helps ensure the repair doesn't pull out.

 

[mishka]

P=tex need to be specially prepared for bonding otherwise nothing will stay for too long. Standard procedure in ski manufacturing is flame treatment and sending.

small gouge I usually repair with epoxy.

If anybody need small piece of real P-tex for base repair I have plenty of that stuff for free

 

[Scruffy]

Clean with base cleaner or automotive wax remover. Clean up and Square of gouge with razor; don't need to get too crazy with this, just don't want tattered gouge. Use a cheap soldering iron to heat edges of existing base area of gouge on ski to melting point before you melt new P-tex into gouge, this will bond/weld the new p-tex to the base; otherwise your patch may pop out while skiing or tuning. A P-tex gun is worth the money if you find yourself doing a lot of repairs.

For core shots right at the ski edge, I've used epoxy putty, like JB weld. Sometimes I immediately melt p-tex on top of epoxy before it dries if it's real deep and I feel like it, otherwise a small patch of JB weld does no harm over the length of the ski.